.5 to 5 millimaps?
 It all depends on how much electrode you use and how far apart they are.
 The idea is to not exceed about 1 millimap per square inch of electrode.
 With constant stirring, you can go up to around 2 mA per and still get
good results.

I've never done this, but as per observations taken as a whole..one could
attach the electrodes to a ruler placed on a wide container.
 Starting with a single 9 v battery and the electrodes very close together,
as soon as any activity is seen or current comes up to that 1 mA per Sq" if
using an ammeter..start slowly moving the electrodes apart every few
minutes to keep that activity or current reading more or less constant.
 It would be easier to see the intensity of a small light bulb or LED in
series with one electrode and keep that constant.
 It's much harder [maybe impossible] to use too little current than it is
to use too much, so keep the bulb or LED on the dim side. 
Running a resistor over to the other electrode lead can give an eyeball
calibrator by momentarily shorting the LED to parallel hookup to get a
reference brightness.
 That way you can get a numeric repeatable stopping point as read on the
ruler with a literal 'handle' on the current draw.
What that number 'means' is another question, but at least you can shoot
for the same number and make something that pleases you every time.

It's very important to keep the electrodes parallel so current density and
ion discharge will be uniform.
 If anything, bend the tips slightly away from each other to limit edge
discharge.

With the container well lit, I've found that if I only see 'white wisps', I
usually get a good batch.
 If I see the 'golden whisps'...way too much current.
 Lighting the container from the bottom eliminates glare.
 Using a smooth round container allows a microscope sort of view. [highly
magnified]

 Harbor Freight sells digital multimeters for as little as $4
 They work just fine.

 Another very simple thing to do is to get a current control diode with a
rating suitable to your electrode size. [1 mA is safe with 6" electrodes]
 Hook that and an LED up in series with a wire that hangs near the other
electrode lead.
Short the LED over to parallel momentarily to get a visual idea of what max
current looks like.
 When the LED gets 'that' bright, that's where ions emmission becomes
linear [a starting point]... start a clock.
 If the LED starts out really dim, that means your water is good.
 I've made good 'manual operation' pocket generators for soldiers that way.
[The electrodes can be inserted into a wound too]

An interesting thing to discover is just how little contamination it takes
to make a huge difference in water quality.
 Put the smallest amount of baking soda you can into the water and see the
huge difference it makes.  I mean, tiniest tip of a toothpick nearly
invisible amount.
 A mere water spot [mineral deposit] on the container can make a difference.

 Clocks are useless if you don't know where you started from and the rates
are always climbing faster and faster.
Ode

At 09:52 AM 4/22/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Morning Ode,
>
>>Or modify yours with the addition of a potentiometer and ammeter , get a 
>>PPM/TDS or uS meter and watch yours like a hawk.
>
>   I understand what you are saying and follow the logic.
>
>   If one wanted to use a fixed range ammeter, what should this range be?
>
>  I have some very good digital meters that are in fact millivolt 
>meters.  The numerals are near 1 inch tall. They have considerable 
>configuration capability, including decimal placement.  They are either 4 
>or 5 digits.
>
>  I used these to display mm Hg in a medical product I used to 
>manufacture.  They can also be used to display temperature, or virtually 
>any other status.
>
>  With the use of a meter shunt, I could set one of these up to display 
>current.  Likely I could use a low value of  1 % resistor to accomplish 
>current indication.  I have used a number of meter shunts before, but none 
>for this low value of current.
>
>  Of course it is easier to simply use a good Multimeter.
>
>  Wayne 
>
>
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