A couple of suggestions to make things happier up on top of the tower....
1. Use the Polyphaser that has a male on the equipment side and
female on the antenna side and screw it directly on the SB AP.
2. Bond a good ground connection from the Polyphaser to the tower
leg--#10 or larger wire--you can order a flat plate from Polyphaser that
attaches under the provided locknut to give you two screw holes to attach a
double hole crimp lug to it.
3. Run DB style shielded Cat5 up the tower and bond the shield to
the tower at the top, 150' down (middle) and at the bottom where it leaves
the tower.
4. If you are using the maxrad 120* sectors, save yourself some
grief and a. Throw away the lousy tilt mounts they provide...they are
aluminum and to not stay in place....we picked up some stainless conduit
hangers and stainless 1/4-20 hex bolts and attached them directly to the
tower leg, using some spacers on the top hanger to get exactly the correct
amount of downtilt we wanted.
5. Also, make sure you order them with a male N connector so it
will attach directly to the female on the Polyphaser.
6. Lastly, seriously consider putting the antenna, Polyphaser and
radio together on the ground--and using 3:1 DB shrink (the kind with hot
glue on the inside) to seal the antenna-to-polyphaser and
polyphaser-to-radio connections--you'll be glad you did. Alernatively, I
would rather use Scotch self-fusing rubber tape and Scotchkote than rubber
tape. When I use this technique I put 4-5 layers of rubber tape that fuses
into a single piece, then three coats of Scotchkote---been doing this over
30 years now and never had it leak.
JH
PS...you might want to search the archives for my treatese on proper install
techniques.
PPS...YDI has a nice calculator for setting the downtilt.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Haynes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 10:39 PM
Subject: RE: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware
> You will need 6 coaxial jumpers (one on each side of the polyphaser)
unless
> you use the Nfemale-Nmale protector. Add in 6 rolls of 3m 33 Electrical
tape
> ($2.50ea) as well as a can of 3m liquid electrical tape ($10-20). Don't
> skimp on the weatherproofing! You will need an enclosure at the base of
the
> tower (unless there is a building) to put the power supplies, router,
> powerShot, etc... .
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 12:33 AM
> To: Bill Flood
> Subject: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware
>
>
> On Fri, 18 Jul 2003, Lancaster Networks wrote:
> > I need to provide them with a COMPLETE proposal of this whole thing,
> > and right now, this is what I am going to propose to them:
> >
> > (3) SmartBridges AirPoint Pro Outdoor @ $330.00 ea = $990.00
> > (3) Maxrad 120 degree beamwidth antenna @ $407.52 ea = $1222.56
> > (3) LMR-400 4ft jumper coax cable @ $24.00 ea = $72.00
> > (3) Polyphaser 2.4ghz coaxial lightning protectors @ $35.66 ea =
> > $106.98
>
> Looks good.
>
> > Has anyone needed to use polyphasers? We use them as a standard where
> > you have 100-300 foot hardline runs, but in this case, it's ethernet
> > cable. But I don't feel like climbing up the 300 foot tower to replace
> > a blown radio either.
>
> Polyphasers rock. But you know this already. Put a Coax protector on the N
> connector at the radio, and run your antennas pigtail off of that. Be sure
> to ground the polyphaser well. The SmartBridges use a plastic case, so you
> can't ground em. Once the ethernet comes inside, put a Polyphaser IS-T1
> protector on the ethernet. They make a three port model, would be perfect
> for you. Bear in mind you will need to protect the PoE seperately. The
IS-T1
> only protects two pairs. (Or 2 pairs X 3 ports on the IS-3T1)
>
> > This brings me to another point, are SB's products reliable enough
> > that I won't need to spend my entire life climbing the tower to fix
> > them or reflash them? them?
>
> There are no serial ports on the units, and you can reset the
configuration
> from the power injector, so I don't see why you would need to climb,
except
> to replace the entire radio. My APs are all Cisco or Trango, never used
> SmartBridges anywhere other than a CPE. Not sure if I would trust them.
>
> > I plan on mounting the antenna's with a bit of a downtilt, but all at
> > the top of the 300' tower, because I am looking for long-range
> > performance. Any methods for calculating downtilt that work good? I've
> > used my knowledge in the broadcast/radio industry to make my own
> > calculations, and with the use of ComStudy (an excellent program for
> > calculating RF propagation)
>
> YDI (www.ydi.com) has a number of javascript forms that will do all the
> common calculations for you. Check em out.
>
> Jeremy
> (Fromer Lancasterite)
>
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