With coax it was ok because it doesn't end in equipment well it does at the base but you always grounded at the head house I am guessing. But with this equipment it is not grounded except at the antenna, which is shielded from the tower by the poly phaser, so the less grounding the better If lightning has no path you don't have to worry about it. Also smartBridges said that they put lightning protection in the base of the cat 5 ( in the power injector) so you literally don't have to worry about it even coming in on the electrical side as well. Also you can use a barrel connector on the sectors. You do loose maybe a quarter more db out of it but it is a lot less hassle. Some people just don't have the tools to put the ends on. Jason
-----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Hokenson Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 1:49 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware We'll have to agree to disagree on the bonding. I tend to treat the cat5 aluminum jacket just as I would a chunk of heliax, and I DON'T want it acting as an antenna and coming much above ground. To each his own on that one I guess--been doing two-way stuff for about 30 years now and am set in my ways.... I guess he can do what I've been doing on the sectors, chop off the female connector and replace it with a male....then it can screw directly to the Polyphaser and eliminate the pigtail....works well for us anyway. JH ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jason Keller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:30 PM Subject: RE: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware > NEVER EVER bond the shielding to the tower. You are just begging for > trouble, Lightning travels the path of least resistance from the ground > up. If it is the shielding on your cat5 cable, so be it. When you ground > it in several places you are creating a ground loop. Oh and you can't > order them with male connector's they are made in china and you would > have to order like a 1000 of them to have special made. I like 3m tape > better. The hot-melt stuff is pretty cool. Also have seen people use > electrical silicone on the connections they say that it keeps the > gaskets from drying out and cracking. ... Jason > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Hokenson > Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 1:23 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware > > A couple of suggestions to make things happier up on top of the > tower.... > 1. Use the Polyphaser that has a male on the equipment side > and > female on the antenna side and screw it directly on the SB AP. > 2. Bond a good ground connection from the Polyphaser to the > tower > leg--#10 or larger wire--you can order a flat plate from Polyphaser that > attaches under the provided locknut to give you two screw holes to > attach a > double hole crimp lug to it. > 3. Run DB style shielded Cat5 up the tower and bond the > shield to > the tower at the top, 150' down (middle) and at the bottom where it > leaves > the tower. > 4. If you are using the maxrad 120* sectors, save yourself > some > grief and a. Throw away the lousy tilt mounts they provide...they are > aluminum and to not stay in place....we picked up some stainless conduit > hangers and stainless 1/4-20 hex bolts and attached them directly to the > tower leg, using some spacers on the top hanger to get exactly the > correct > amount of downtilt we wanted. > 5. Also, make sure you order them with a male N connector so > it > will attach directly to the female on the Polyphaser. > 6. Lastly, seriously consider putting the antenna, Polyphaser > and > radio together on the ground--and using 3:1 DB shrink (the kind with hot > glue on the inside) to seal the antenna-to-polyphaser and > polyphaser-to-radio connections--you'll be glad you did. Alernatively, > I > would rather use Scotch self-fusing rubber tape and Scotchkote than > rubber > tape. When I use this technique I put 4-5 layers of rubber tape that > fuses > into a single piece, then three coats of Scotchkote---been doing this > over > 30 years now and never had it leak. > > JH > > PS...you might want to search the archives for my treatese on proper > install > techniques. > > PPS...YDI has a nice calculator for setting the downtilt. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tom Haynes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 10:39 PM > Subject: RE: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware > > > > You will need 6 coaxial jumpers (one on each side of the polyphaser) > unless > > you use the Nfemale-Nmale protector. Add in 6 rolls of 3m 33 > Electrical > tape > > ($2.50ea) as well as a can of 3m liquid electrical tape ($10-20). > Don't > > skimp on the weatherproofing! You will need an enclosure at the base > of > the > > tower (unless there is a building) to put the power supplies, router, > > powerShot, etc... . > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 12:33 AM > > To: Bill Flood > > Subject: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware > > > > > > On Fri, 18 Jul 2003, Lancaster Networks wrote: > > > I need to provide them with a COMPLETE proposal of this whole thing, > > > and right now, this is what I am going to propose to them: > > > > > > (3) SmartBridges AirPoint Pro Outdoor @ $330.00 ea = $990.00 > > > (3) Maxrad 120 degree beamwidth antenna @ $407.52 ea = $1222.56 > > > (3) LMR-400 4ft jumper coax cable @ $24.00 ea = $72.00 > > > (3) Polyphaser 2.4ghz coaxial lightning protectors @ $35.66 ea = > > > $106.98 > > > > Looks good. > > > > > Has anyone needed to use polyphasers? We use them as a standard > where > > > you have 100-300 foot hardline runs, but in this case, it's ethernet > > > cable. But I don't feel like climbing up the 300 foot tower to > replace > > > a blown radio either. > > > > Polyphasers rock. But you know this already. Put a Coax protector on > the N > > connector at the radio, and run your antennas pigtail off of that. Be > sure > > to ground the polyphaser well. The SmartBridges use a plastic case, so > you > > can't ground em. Once the ethernet comes inside, put a Polyphaser > IS-T1 > > protector on the ethernet. They make a three port model, would be > perfect > > for you. Bear in mind you will need to protect the PoE seperately. The > IS-T1 > > only protects two pairs. (Or 2 pairs X 3 ports on the IS-3T1) > > > > > This brings me to another point, are SB's products reliable enough > > > that I won't need to spend my entire life climbing the tower to fix > > > them or reflash them? them? > > > > There are no serial ports on the units, and you can reset the > configuration > > from the power injector, so I don't see why you would need to climb, > except > > to replace the entire radio. My APs are all Cisco or Trango, never > used > > SmartBridges anywhere other than a CPE. Not sure if I would trust > them. > > > > > I plan on mounting the antenna's with a bit of a downtilt, but all > at > > > the top of the 300' tower, because I am looking for long-range > > > performance. Any methods for calculating downtilt that work good? > I've > > > used my knowledge in the broadcast/radio industry to make my own > > > calculations, and with the use of ComStudy (an excellent program for > > > calculating RF propagation) > > > > YDI (www.ydi.com) has a number of javascript forms that will do all > the > > common calculations for you. Check em out. > > > > Jeremy > > (Fromer Lancasterite) > > > > The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List > > To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe > > smartBridges <yournickname> To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in > the > > body type unsubscribe smartBridges) > > Archives: http://archives.part-15.org > > > > The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List > > To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe > smartBridges <yournickname> > > To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type unsubscribe > smartBridges) > > Archives: http://archives.part-15.org > > The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List > To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe > smartBridges <yournickname> > To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type unsubscribe > smartBridges) > Archives: http://archives.part-15.org > > > The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List > To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe smartBridges <yournickname> > To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type unsubscribe smartBridges) > Archives: http://archives.part-15.org The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe smartBridges <yournickname> To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type unsubscribe smartBridges) Archives: http://archives.part-15.org The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe smartBridges <yournickname> To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type unsubscribe smartBridges) Archives: http://archives.part-15.org
