Bull hockey.. You can get them with N-male to N-Femal connectors. I got a bunch of them. As for tower grounding you mean to say Polyphaser and other companies that specialize in lightning protection are lying to us and give us bad advice how we should install our coax up the towers ??? I'd rather take Polyphasers advice then yours.
BTW A ground loop is defined as when you have 2 locations that do not use a common ground and you have a cable in between these sites. So the only 2 things that will allow electricity to pass between point a and point B is either you cable or the ground. But if you use the same ground in booth locations with a ground cable in between you eliminate this ground loop. Just need to make sure that your ground between these two building is the better conductor then your cable (coax or cat5). Polyhpasers have some nice white papers on their site. As for silicone I would recommend against it if you plan on using the connectors again. Also many silicons contain some acidy material that can react and eat away your connectors especially when you have different metal alloys in the connector. That is for the same reason why you should never use a aluminium ground kit with copper ground kit. The copper and aluminium will react against each other and eat each other up unless you use a anti-oxidant between the two. The anti-oxidant however is usually conductive which means it should NOT be used in your connectors. Use proper weather proofing. electrical tape, mastic tape and the electrical tape. Done right this will NOT leak any water and you will be able to get the weather proofing off and reuse connectors and cables. Especially important when you use antennas with built on pigtails. If you can't reuse that connector you have to cut the pigtail coming out of the antenna and after just a couple of times you will not have any pigtail left and your antenna is junk. / Eje Friday, July 18, 2003, 1:30:40 AM, you wrote: JK> NEVER EVER bond the shielding to the tower. You are just begging for JK> trouble, Lightning travels the path of least resistance from the ground JK> up. If it is the shielding on your cat5 cable, so be it. When you ground JK> it in several places you are creating a ground loop. Oh and you can't JK> order them with male connector's they are made in china and you would JK> have to order like a 1000 of them to have special made. I like 3m tape JK> better. The hot-melt stuff is pretty cool. Also have seen people use JK> electrical silicone on the connections they say that it keeps the JK> gaskets from drying out and cracking. ... Jason JK> -----Original Message----- JK> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] JK> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Hokenson JK> Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 1:23 AM JK> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] JK> Subject: Re: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware JK> A couple of suggestions to make things happier up on top of the JK> tower.... JK> 1. Use the Polyphaser that has a male on the equipment side JK> and JK> female on the antenna side and screw it directly on the SB AP. JK> 2. Bond a good ground connection from the Polyphaser to the JK> tower JK> leg--#10 or larger wire--you can order a flat plate from Polyphaser that JK> attaches under the provided locknut to give you two screw holes to JK> attach a JK> double hole crimp lug to it. JK> 3. Run DB style shielded Cat5 up the tower and bond the JK> shield to JK> the tower at the top, 150' down (middle) and at the bottom where it JK> leaves JK> the tower. JK> 4. If you are using the maxrad 120* sectors, save yourself JK> some JK> grief and a. Throw away the lousy tilt mounts they provide...they are JK> aluminum and to not stay in place....we picked up some stainless conduit JK> hangers and stainless 1/4-20 hex bolts and attached them directly to the JK> tower leg, using some spacers on the top hanger to get exactly the JK> correct JK> amount of downtilt we wanted. JK> 5. Also, make sure you order them with a male N connector so JK> it JK> will attach directly to the female on the Polyphaser. JK> 6. Lastly, seriously consider putting the antenna, Polyphaser JK> and JK> radio together on the ground--and using 3:1 DB shrink (the kind with hot JK> glue on the inside) to seal the antenna-to-polyphaser and JK> polyphaser-to-radio connections--you'll be glad you did. Alernatively, JK> I JK> would rather use Scotch self-fusing rubber tape and Scotchkote than JK> rubber JK> tape. When I use this technique I put 4-5 layers of rubber tape that JK> fuses JK> into a single piece, then three coats of Scotchkote---been doing this JK> over JK> 30 years now and never had it leak. JK> JH JK> PS...you might want to search the archives for my treatese on proper JK> install JK> techniques. JK> PPS...YDI has a nice calculator for setting the downtilt. JK> ----- Original Message ----- JK> From: "Tom Haynes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> JK> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> JK> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 10:39 PM JK> Subject: RE: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware >> You will need 6 coaxial jumpers (one on each side of the polyphaser) JK> unless >> you use the Nfemale-Nmale protector. Add in 6 rolls of 3m 33 JK> Electrical JK> tape >> ($2.50ea) as well as a can of 3m liquid electrical tape ($10-20). JK> Don't >> skimp on the weatherproofing! You will need an enclosure at the base JK> of JK> the >> tower (unless there is a building) to put the power supplies, router, >> powerShot, etc... . >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] JK> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] >> On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 12:33 AM >> To: Bill Flood >> Subject: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware >> >> >> On Fri, 18 Jul 2003, Lancaster Networks wrote: >> > I need to provide them with a COMPLETE proposal of this whole thing, >> > and right now, this is what I am going to propose to them: >> > >> > (3) SmartBridges AirPoint Pro Outdoor @ $330.00 ea = $990.00 >> > (3) Maxrad 120 degree beamwidth antenna @ $407.52 ea = $1222.56 >> > (3) LMR-400 4ft jumper coax cable @ $24.00 ea = $72.00 >> > (3) Polyphaser 2.4ghz coaxial lightning protectors @ $35.66 ea = >> > $106.98 >> >> Looks good. >> >> > Has anyone needed to use polyphasers? We use them as a standard JK> where >> > you have 100-300 foot hardline runs, but in this case, it's ethernet >> > cable. But I don't feel like climbing up the 300 foot tower to JK> replace >> > a blown radio either. >> >> Polyphasers rock. But you know this already. Put a Coax protector on JK> the N >> connector at the radio, and run your antennas pigtail off of that. Be JK> sure >> to ground the polyphaser well. The SmartBridges use a plastic case, so JK> you >> can't ground em. Once the ethernet comes inside, put a Polyphaser JK> IS-T1 >> protector on the ethernet. They make a three port model, would be JK> perfect >> for you. Bear in mind you will need to protect the PoE seperately. The JK> IS-T1 >> only protects two pairs. (Or 2 pairs X 3 ports on the IS-3T1) >> >> > This brings me to another point, are SB's products reliable enough >> > that I won't need to spend my entire life climbing the tower to fix >> > them or reflash them? them? >> >> There are no serial ports on the units, and you can reset the JK> configuration >> from the power injector, so I don't see why you would need to climb, JK> except >> to replace the entire radio. My APs are all Cisco or Trango, never JK> used >> SmartBridges anywhere other than a CPE. Not sure if I would trust JK> them. >> >> > I plan on mounting the antenna's with a bit of a downtilt, but all JK> at >> > the top of the 300' tower, because I am looking for long-range >> > performance. Any methods for calculating downtilt that work good? JK> I've >> > used my knowledge in the broadcast/radio industry to make my own >> > calculations, and with the use of ComStudy (an excellent program for >> > calculating RF propagation) >> >> YDI (www.ydi.com) has a number of javascript forms that will do all JK> the >> common calculations for you. Check em out. >> >> Jeremy >> (Fromer Lancasterite) >> >> The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List >> To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe >> smartBridges <yournickname> To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in JK> the >> body type unsubscribe smartBridges) >> Archives: http://archives.part-15.org >> >> The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List >> To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe JK> smartBridges <yournickname> >> To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type unsubscribe JK> smartBridges) >> Archives: http://archives.part-15.org JK> The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List JK> To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe JK> smartBridges <yournickname> JK> To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type unsubscribe JK> smartBridges) JK> Archives: http://archives.part-15.org JK> The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List JK> To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe smartBridges <yournickname> JK> To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type unsubscribe smartBridges) JK> Archives: http://archives.part-15.org Best regards, Eje Gustafsson mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] --- The Family Entertainment Network http://www.fament.com Phone : 620-231-7777 Fax : 620-231-4066 eBay UserID : macahan - Your Full Time Professionals - -- [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus] The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe smartBridges <yournickname> To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type unsubscribe smartBridges) Archives: http://archives.part-15.org
