Naw...I figure folks are free to do whatever they want. Afterall, It's not MY system. ;o) I just dispense advice when it's asked for, and try to combine my experiences over the years with real world problems, along with the manufacturer's reccomendations. If anyone wants to learn a lot about lightning and surviving its effects, the best suggestion I can offer is read the Polyphaser white papers on their site.... www.polyphaser.com
Time for bed now..... :o) JH ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:37 PM Subject: RE: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware > /me sits back and waits for the fireworks. > I am sure John will have a nice response to this. > > On Fri, 18 Jul 2003, Jason Keller wrote: > > NEVER EVER bond the shielding to the tower. You are just begging for > > trouble, Lightning travels the path of least resistance from the ground > > up. If it is the shielding on your cat5 cable, so be it. When you ground > > it in several places you are creating a ground loop. Oh and you can't > > order them with male connector's they are made in china and you would > > have to order like a 1000 of them to have special made. I like 3m tape > > better. The hot-melt stuff is pretty cool. Also have seen people use > > electrical silicone on the connections they say that it keeps the > > gaskets from drying out and cracking. ... Jason > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Hokenson > > Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 1:23 AM > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: Re: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware > > > > A couple of suggestions to make things happier up on top of the > > tower.... > > 1. Use the Polyphaser that has a male on the equipment side > > and > > female on the antenna side and screw it directly on the SB AP. > > 2. Bond a good ground connection from the Polyphaser to the > > tower > > leg--#10 or larger wire--you can order a flat plate from Polyphaser that > > attaches under the provided locknut to give you two screw holes to > > attach a > > double hole crimp lug to it. > > 3. Run DB style shielded Cat5 up the tower and bond the > > shield to > > the tower at the top, 150' down (middle) and at the bottom where it > > leaves > > the tower. > > 4. If you are using the maxrad 120* sectors, save yourself > > some > > grief and a. Throw away the lousy tilt mounts they provide...they are > > aluminum and to not stay in place....we picked up some stainless conduit > > hangers and stainless 1/4-20 hex bolts and attached them directly to the > > tower leg, using some spacers on the top hanger to get exactly the > > correct > > amount of downtilt we wanted. > > 5. Also, make sure you order them with a male N connector so > > it > > will attach directly to the female on the Polyphaser. > > 6. Lastly, seriously consider putting the antenna, Polyphaser > > and > > radio together on the ground--and using 3:1 DB shrink (the kind with hot > > glue on the inside) to seal the antenna-to-polyphaser and > > polyphaser-to-radio connections--you'll be glad you did. Alernatively, > > I > > would rather use Scotch self-fusing rubber tape and Scotchkote than > > rubber > > tape. When I use this technique I put 4-5 layers of rubber tape that > > fuses > > into a single piece, then three coats of Scotchkote---been doing this > > over > > 30 years now and never had it leak. > > > > JH > > > > PS...you might want to search the archives for my treatese on proper > > install > > techniques. > > > > PPS...YDI has a nice calculator for setting the downtilt. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Tom Haynes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 10:39 PM > > Subject: RE: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware > > > > > > > You will need 6 coaxial jumpers (one on each side of the polyphaser) > > unless > > > you use the Nfemale-Nmale protector. Add in 6 rolls of 3m 33 > > Electrical > > tape > > > ($2.50ea) as well as a can of 3m liquid electrical tape ($10-20). > > Don't > > > skimp on the weatherproofing! You will need an enclosure at the base > > of > > the > > > tower (unless there is a building) to put the power supplies, router, > > > powerShot, etc... . > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 12:33 AM > > > To: Bill Flood > > > Subject: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware > > > > > > > > > On Fri, 18 Jul 2003, Lancaster Networks wrote: > > > > I need to provide them with a COMPLETE proposal of this whole thing, > > > > and right now, this is what I am going to propose to them: > > > > > > > > (3) SmartBridges AirPoint Pro Outdoor @ $330.00 ea = $990.00 > > > > (3) Maxrad 120 degree beamwidth antenna @ $407.52 ea = $1222.56 > > > > (3) LMR-400 4ft jumper coax cable @ $24.00 ea = $72.00 > > > > (3) Polyphaser 2.4ghz coaxial lightning protectors @ $35.66 ea = > > > > $106.98 > > > > > > Looks good. > > > > > > > Has anyone needed to use polyphasers? We use them as a standard > > where > > > > you have 100-300 foot hardline runs, but in this case, it's ethernet > > > > cable. But I don't feel like climbing up the 300 foot tower to > > replace > > > > a blown radio either. > > > > > > Polyphasers rock. But you know this already. Put a Coax protector on > > the N > > > connector at the radio, and run your antennas pigtail off of that. Be > > sure > > > to ground the polyphaser well. The SmartBridges use a plastic case, so > > you > > > can't ground em. Once the ethernet comes inside, put a Polyphaser > > IS-T1 > > > protector on the ethernet. They make a three port model, would be > > perfect > > > for you. Bear in mind you will need to protect the PoE seperately. The > > IS-T1 > > > only protects two pairs. (Or 2 pairs X 3 ports on the IS-3T1) > > > > > > > This brings me to another point, are SB's products reliable enough > > > > that I won't need to spend my entire life climbing the tower to fix > > > > them or reflash them? them? > > > > > > There are no serial ports on the units, and you can reset the > > configuration > > > from the power injector, so I don't see why you would need to climb, > > except > > > to replace the entire radio. My APs are all Cisco or Trango, never > > used > > > SmartBridges anywhere other than a CPE. Not sure if I would trust > > them. > > > > > > > I plan on mounting the antenna's with a bit of a downtilt, but all > > at > > > > the top of the 300' tower, because I am looking for long-range > > > > performance. Any methods for calculating downtilt that work good? > > I've > > > > used my knowledge in the broadcast/radio industry to make my own > > > > calculations, and with the use of ComStudy (an excellent program for > > > > calculating RF propagation) > > > > > > YDI (www.ydi.com) has a number of javascript forms that will do all > > the > > > common calculations for you. Check em out. > > > > > > Jeremy > > > (Fromer Lancasterite) > > The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List > To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe smartBridges <yournickname> > To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type unsubscribe smartBridges) > Archives: http://archives.part-15.org The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe smartBridges <yournickname> To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type unsubscribe smartBridges) Archives: http://archives.part-15.org
