Why are you wanting to install the suction control valve? Was it requested by 
the FD or water supplier? 

I would be concerned about removing the PRV without knowing all about what is 
downstream. It would be just your luck that some contractor got a variance to 
build the mains out of pool-noodles that burst at 110psi...

Matt 


-----Original Message-----
From: Sprinklerforum <[email protected]> On Behalf 
Of Tom Duross via Sprinklerforum
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2021 6:28 AM
To: [email protected]
Cc: Tom Duross <[email protected]>
Subject: FP Suction Control Valve

Good morning Campers.  Looking for advice and comments.

I have an existing diesel driven fire pump in a prefabricated pump house 
installed in 2012 serving 2 apartment buildings.

I first tested this pump in 2017, had 13 hours on it, ran fine but we ran out 
of water at just about 100% capacity.

Spent the day with the water department a few days later checking underground 
valves, flowing a few street main's hydrants, basically came to the conclusion 
that this is all we got.  Wrote up a report, suggested they hire an FPE to see 
if the pump's tested capacity meets requirements, how did this happen, what 
about the hydrants off this system, stuff like that.  I think I stirred the 
sleepy caldron a little.

Didn't hear back from the client until this spring.  Apparently they changed 
ITM contractors and the new one didn't pan out.  They had a balcony fire May 
2021, gas grille, 13R system with no attic protection, non-completed attic 
separations and fire walls, etc.  Fortunately they had a response so quickly it 
never made it to penetrate the eaves and soffits and was extinguished between 
the 5th and 6th (top) floors.  Local FD must have had a field day with a Q20 of 
about 800 and closest city hydrant ¼ mile away.  Waiting for incident report to 
review.

 

So back to my query.  It's a xy&em pump house.  All welded sch40 and painted.  
Not the greatest build as there's a 6" BFP vertically installed right off the 
incoming service with elbows turning it around and down to the floor to feed 
the pump.  Just a few spacers in the piping so no room for slipping in this 
device unless something gets removed or moved.  4-15 of #20
(2013) says between the pump discharge and check and I get that but also defers 
to the mfgr. for direction.  Looking at the various offerings most are a little 
vague on placement and even one says after the pump discharge valve.  Without 
major surgery, I have 2 spots to slip in this 20" long device.  I can remove 
the relief valve between the discharge increaser and pump check and put it 
there 'or' I can remove the tee feeding a 6" storz and check located between 
the discharge valve and the city bypass.  The former will allow me to test 
through the device but the latter will not.  I don't believe either of these 
appurtenances are necessary and I will explain (he's still rambling?  
Jeepers..).  The engine is a small JD inline 4 running 3000 rpm, single ECM, 
max. speed is 3300.  Churn is 155 at 3025.  I haven't physically done it but if 
I extrapolate to 3300 I get 170 psi.  I'm below
175 so I think the PRV can go.  If I opt to remove the storz I can but testing 
this pump will have to be via the 3 hydrants it serves, in addition to the 2 
buildings.  I honestly don't know why the engineer (small E) had a storz 
included as this house it atop a hill in the woods ½ mile away from a city 
hydrant and these buildings.

 

OK, done rambling.  Loose the PRV or keep scratching my head?

 

Let's go Red Sox!

 

Tom Duross

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