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These posts bring up some questions. Nancy, regarding wrapping the
excess warp on the posts, do you need to use
paper or cardboard between the wrappings
as you would on warping a full sized loom? I guess the tension is more
controlled by the cards. It sounds like
you just wrap it around and around itself.
Doesn't it slip? In fact, how do you keep it from slipping? This
technique obviously has great advantages - it
saves time since its so quick, especially
if it has to be redone every time you have woven as far as possible. And
of course the big advantage is being
able to do any length.
And Linda, can you describe what you mean by the tensioning block? I get
the picture of a board (say 17-18" or
so), with a dowel on both ends. But I'm not
sure how the tension is controlled. I can envision two blocks screwed or
lashed together with the cloth going
between, but do you tie these blocks to the
upper dowel, are they fastened somehow to the board or is it some other
mechanism entirely? How does it stay out
of the way of the cards?
Thanks to all of you. With all of your kind help, I'll soon be able to
weave on the airplane and train.
Craig in Denver
>
>
> Julie, the traditional (i.e. medieval) way was simply to wrap the
excess warp
> and the finished band around the two end posts. I think that might be
a
> problem with c-clamps, but it would work on more substantial posts.
>
> Nancy
> Send private reply to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 18:28:26 -0800
> From: Linda Hendrickson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: card weaving on very small looms
>
>
> I'm wondering if you somehow could "miniaturize" the set-up I use at
home,
> which is a board and two tensioning blocks with horizontal dowels. My
> tensioning blocks are clamped to the loom with C-clamps. It might be
> possible to use screws instead. Having a horizontal dowel at each end
of
> the board eliminates the problems that occur with a single anchor
point,
> because you can tie up the warp in small sections and spread it out as
> desired. The far end can be untied whenever desired to push out excess
> twist or adjust tension. You don't have to untie the whole thing,
just the
> sections that need adjusting.
>
> The warp can be as long as you like. I chain up excess warp and put
it in
> a zip-lock bag. When I weave as far as possible, I untie
everything, put
> the band over one dowel and around under the tensioning block, clamp
it
> down and re-tie the other end.
>
> Linda
>
>
Send private reply to "Craig W. Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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