Sponsored by TWIST - Tablet Weavers International Studies & Techniques

Dear Peter,

Happy new year!

I think that this is an interesting bit of information below, may I include
it in the next journal?

I see that your membership in TWIST expired with the Summer issue and that
your address has changed, did you move?

Regards,

Janis


At 02:56 AM 12/31/02, you wrote:
Sponsored by TWIST - Tablet Weavers International Studies & Techniques



I feel maybe I have inadvertently contributed to the missed hole confusion
in calling the warp-twined structure in which one or two holes in each
tablet is unthreaded a "Missed hole TECHNIQUE ". (see figs 71 and 72 in
TTW)
  It is really one application of a Missed Hole THREADING.

Such a threading can lead to several STRUCTURES depending on the
TECHNIQUE used.

1)  with a one-colour warp and continuous uni-directional turning of all
tablets or blocks of tablets, it produces a warp-twined textile with visible
wefts showing in transverse and diagonal grooves. (see Plate 61 in TTW)
Still used in N African bands made from synthetic yarns.

2) with a two colour warp, specially arranged in each tablet with relation
to the missed hole, and with more complex turning sequences, it produces
areas of 'hopsack' (in one colour, the other colour FLOATING  in long
loops on the back) and of warp twining where the two colours form fine
diagonal lines.
This is the structure I show in Figs 129,130 +surrounding and very
detailed text in TTW, which mentions its origin in Iceland; and which
Guido Gehlhaar has exploited so skilfully.

So the two structures are completely different.. one a reversible warp-
twining, the other a one-sided combination of hopsack and warp-twining.
They just happen to both depend on leaving one hole per tablet
unthreaded.

When writing TTW, I began organising the many possibilities by the way
the tablets were threaded... (so the two above structures would have been
classified and described together)  but I soon realised that the only logical
way was to organise by the final structure. (Maybe slightly influenced by
Irene Emery's classification of all textiles by structure, not method of
production, in her great 'Primary Structure of Textiles').

  But in my Appendix 1, you will see 'Techniques Classified by Threading',
where the above two missed hole threadings, PLUS three others are listed,
with references to their description in the book.

So I feel it is misleaing to group the above two structures under one name,
as suggested by GG  Though I do know the names with which I christened
structures in TTW are often cumbersome mouthfuls!

Excuse the SHOUTING in the above,,, but in TW, it is so important that
threading , technique and structure are always clearly differentiated.

Peter Collingwood

blincoe's
newlands lane
nayland
colchester
CO6 4JJ
UK

tel/fax 01206 262 401

http://www.petercollingwood.co.uk

Send private reply to peter collingwood <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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