What I would do is check for leaks first. I would not take something apart that is not broken. Get a garden hose and simulate rain on each window individually and check for leaks inside. If none leak then I would leave it alone. You are especially lucky to have a covered slip. Down in Floride I have not been able to find an available covered slip, unless I want to buy a slip and cover it myself.
Thanks, Victor On Feb 14, 12:54 pm, okiegrandboater <[email protected]> wrote: > is this a problem with all uniflite's? I recently picked up 34 > sportfisherman, its in a covered slip so hasn't really been exposed > to any real weather, but as the weather gets warmer the odds will go > up that it will be, just wondering if I should be thinking about > fixing it before its a problem, ref the person who recomended seacure > technoligies, I have been ordering parts from him since I got the > boat, os far so good, only problem is its a one man show, so things > take a little bit some times > > On Feb 13, 2:03 pm, Ken Gipson <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > Victor, Sorry I was not paying attention to the previous discussions here. I > > see that you are in Atlanta.The design of the windows in these boats where > > not very service friendly so they usually get skipped and then dealt with > > when things get bad. > > > The dual pane window system is the best cure for these boats in a Z bar type > > construction. Z bar style is available a sort of retrofit window. The Z bar > > can be cut if too wide to match the aluminum window frame. The initial > > sealing is critical but the correct adhesives are available. I would think > > that there are more cons with solid windows especially on those beautiful > > days when you are eating lunch inside and would be cool to have those > > sliders. > > > Early Uniflite windows have no true drainage built in and that is the > > biggest problem. If you want to you can find a dealer for the residential > > style windows but don't tell them it for a boat or they probably won't build > > them. Tell them it is for a barn or shed or a play house which easier to > > pass off being trapezoid shape. You can get tint and tempered glass. > > > If you ever had some weird weather happen and a big window got broke letting > > in a great deal of water it would allot harder to get it dry with the solid > > windows. Just a worse cas scenario. > > > Ken > > > On Fri, Feb 13, 2009 at 11:49 AM, Ken Gipson <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Victor, Where are you located? > > > > On Mon, Feb 9, 2009 at 4:47 AM, flitebuilder > > > <[email protected]>wrote: > > > >> Hello all, > > > >> Another question on my 1973 36' SS. I have removed the salon side > > >> windows and the small windows in the head and double berth. I would > > >> like opinions on the side windows in the salon. Should I have the > > >> glass shop put in rigid non opening panes that will not leak, or > > >> should I go with the original factory sliding panes to allow for > > >> ventilation? > > > >> The windshields are in sad shape, mainly because the tink is coming > > >> off. I want to just remove the tint and leave the windows alone. > > >> Main reason is that they look to be a real pain to remove. > > > >> Also, has anyone had problem with the port holes in the 'V' berth > > >> leaking. I do not think I am going to remove them right now. > > > >> Any and all advice is appreciated. > > > >> Thanks, > > > >> Victor- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "UnifliteWorld" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/UnifliteWorld?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
