On a similar note, this may be of some benefit to some in colder climates or
those able to ride in winter where winters are milder. I always keep a 2000 watt
fan heater in my garage and put it directly under the Max oil pan for about
15-20 minutes before starting the engine in cold weather. The oil temperature is
about 80-100 degrees F before start up and frankly there's no better way to help
reduce engine wear at startup, which is when the main wear occurrs. This applies
to any oil type even the synthetics.
True the synthetics circulate more quickly from dead cold but I've never in 30
years of race engine building seen a synthetic protect engines better than the
correct type of mineral or mineral with synthetic fortifiers.
I know most won't agree, but we use a Shell brand 15-50w oil in our 500ci
Pro-Stock engines. This is a mineral oil with certain synthetic additives that
Shell includes in this primarily mineral oil. We do 50-60 passes at over 9000
rpm and the bearings come out like brand new. There is also absolutely no doubt
in my mind that our ring seal and leakdowns are maintained for longer at higher
levels with mineral oils such as the one I use.
The best synthetics do add some reduction in friction and therefore horsepower
but the gains in other areas, for me, outweigh the power gain.
As far as Max is concerned, I use a Shell mineral oil also, which is the
motorcycle equivalent of the oil I mentioned above. It is a 20-50w and has many
of the automotive additives removed or modified to ensure smooth clutch and
trans operation. Personally, mine has always had this oil, shifts great and
clutch has always worked perfectly.
I change oil and filter every 2000 miles maximum. Whenever I change oil I remove
plugs, earth plug leads and crank engine for 25-30 seconds without load to get
pressure to engine.
Sam Blumenstein #795
Thomas Powell wrote:
> . Sure takes the oil a long time to warm
> up.
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