VACList-Digest Friday, April 5, 2002 Issue 264
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Introductions
2. Removing Clear Coat is hard
3. Re: roopy sink
4. Re: Airstream Factory Couch
5. Virus!
6. Re: Removing Clear Coat is hard
7. Re: '52 Flying Cloud Door?
8. Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
9. Re: Digest Virus
10. Re: replacement clearance light
11. Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
12. Re: refinish, glue residue, sander suggestion
13. Re: refinish, glue residue, sander suggestion
14. Re: refinish, glue residue, sander suggestion
15. Polishing advice from Dan
16. Re: glue residue suggestion
17. Re: glue residue suggestion
18. Re: refinish, glue residue, sander suggestion
19. Re: Digest Virus
20. California Delta Rally
21. Re: California Delta Rally
22. Re: Shock up date
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 20:49:37 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Introductions
Welcome to Aluminum Madness.
Considerusing penetrating epoxy to turn the spongy wood back into a
sturdy floor. A lot easier and then it will never rot again.
The plywood is sandwiched in between the top and bottom of the trailer,
and it is hard to get the new plywood into there without doing a frame
up restoration.
I would only patch what is actually gone, and epoxy the rest.
Daisy
Dave and Mary wrote:
>
> Hello,
> My name is Dave Shanahan and I just returned home with a 1965
> Overlander 26'. I was wooed by the interior which is in great shape. All
> the original hardware is there. There is no significant damage to the
> surfaces, wood or laminate. And the skins, inner and outer, are in
> reasonably good shape. We had looked at several "streams" before this
> one and it won our hearts. What I will have to deal with soon is the
> floor of the rear bath area. Rotted of course. Any hints tips
> suggestions or advice will be appreciated. I have visited several sites
> and seen some photos of major floor repairs and I expect to remove the
> entire floor wall to wall to effect the repair.
> see ya on the road
> dave
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 19:27:28 -0700 (MST)
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Removing Clear Coat is hard
I am trying to remove the small amount of clear coat left on my 76
trailer and the weather has ruined me! April and it's been over 80% for
the last 8 days! No clouds and the sun beats down on my trailer. I put on
a heavy coat of paint remover and in 3 minutes it's dry!!
I'm either going to have to do this at night, or find a place with
a roof that will let me do it. Or it needs to cool off again.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 21:28:14 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: roopy sink
Hi Joan.
There is supposed to be a piece of aluminum riveted to the wall to hold
up the back of the counter. You need either a skinny kid or someone with
long arms to get under there and reconnect it, maybe with screws ?
Daisy
joan binette wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Hi. I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas how to fix my
> counter. The sink is in the middle and the stove is also
> there. It has dropped about 4" at the back not by the stove
> but behind the sink but its all one piece, I have tried to
> take the sink out but its almost impossible to get in there
> . ny help would be appreciated. I have a 1975 overland
> international I think thats what its called. It has a back
> bedroom. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I also need
> an end cap for my awning its a carefree model dont know if
> is original looks like it. Sincerely, Joan
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download :
> http://explorer.msn.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 19:17:45 -0800
From: "Thomas Holevas Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Airstream Factory Couch
We've acquired a dinette from Charlie Burke, and will be replacing our
1968 Globetrotter front "Gaucho" couch with it. The couch is a complete
working factory unit, and includes the table as well. Cushions included,
but they will need recovering. Contact us off list for details.
Also, anyone happen to have an amber clearance light cover to replace
the center one just stolen from our 1968 Globetrotter?
Tom & Laurie Holden
On Thursday, April 4, 2002, at 05:04 PM, VACList wrote:
> Message Number: 7
> Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 07:01:48 EST
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: ront couch sofabed
>
> Dear VAC members,
>
> The question about the front couch deserves a complete answer. The
> correct
> original "Gaucho" is almost always the best solution for the older
> Airstream
> Trailers in our humble opinion. The ingenuity and detail is far more
> intricate and thought out than we ever imagined when we began our
> restoration
> project. So called plans on the internet were almost useless. We asked
> other
> VAC members for help with dimensions and photos. At the end of our
> research
> we knew more about the couch than people with functioning couches in
> their
> rigs. The couches are critical to the value & originality of the
> restorable
> rigs. Once that couch is lost...the value plummets.
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 22:36:53 -0500
From: Jerry Jarrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Virus!
J.R.,
My digest this evening (4/4/02) had a virus. My server's mail filter picked up
the JS/Kak@m virus and quarantined it.
Jerry Jarrell
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 19:35:40 -0800
From: "Carol and Oliver Filippi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Removing Clear Coat is hard
Try using a semi paste remover and cover it with polyethelene plastic after
applying it - to keep the solvents from evaporating too quickly.
Oliver Filippi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 6:27 PM
Subject: [VAC] Removing Clear Coat is hard
>
> I am trying to remove the small amount of clear coat left on my 76
> trailer and the weather has ruined me! April and it's been over 80% for
> the last 8 days! No clouds and the sun beats down on my trailer. I put on
> a heavy coat of paint remover and in 3 minutes it's dry!!
>
> I'm either going to have to do this at night, or find a place with
> a roof that will let me do it. Or it needs to cool off again.
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 19:56:58 -0800
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '52 Flying Cloud Door?
Stuart,
As long as the exterior frame channel isn't too mangled, all the rest can be
repaired/reskinned. Even the hinges are duplicable from stainless. It will
be the most economical path to take. Either an Airstream dealer, or a sheet
metal shop is where to start.
Best of luck,
RJ
'65 Caravel
> From: Stuart Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 07:51:04 -0600
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC] '52 Flying Cloud Door?
> I am looking for a door for a '52 Flying Cloud. Any ideas? My
> existing door is beyond reasonable repair.
>
> Stuart Smith
> '52 Flying Cloud
> '56 Caravanner
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 20:06:52 -0800
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
Charlotte,
The prior owner used steel wool when stripping the clearcoat from our '65
Caravel - I've never forgiven him. The fine scratches took forever to
polish out - and some on the curved sections probably never will.
You can experiment with the G6 removing the last bits of clearcoat, but be
careful of removing too much alclad from around the spots by grinding away.
If your trailer was semi-protected by the the clearcoat, I would start with
the C grade. Tom spells it out well:
http://www.perfectpolish.com/AppGuide.htm
Speaking of which, you might check out the stripper he recommends.
http://www.perfectpolish.com/paint_stripper.htm
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> From: Charcigar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 19:20:01 -0800
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC] Clearcoat removal frustration
>
>.....This afternoon,I got frustrated enough to try steel wool.I used 000,super
> fine
> stuff......this was finally accomplishing something!Problem is,I am left with
> lot's of fine scratches.I am hoping these will polish out....can anyone
> confirm this?If they will polish out,I will continue using this method...but I
> am nervous about it.
>
> Alternatively,will that last bit of cleracoat that I am struggling with,come
> off if I use the proper polish for the first step?(I am going to be using the
> Nuvite products...so begin with "C",or "G6"?)
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 20:20:48 -0800
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Digest Virus
It's actually benign in the ASCII text format found there in the Digest - it
can't execute and do its bit. It was removed and quarantined from the
individual e-mail postings by the VAC Server VirusWall application.
The originator is "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] So Charlotte, if
you're still out there, you have more problems than clearcoat to deal with
right now.
RJ
VAC Webmaster
> From: Jerry Jarrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 22:36:53 -0500
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC] Virus!
>
> J.R.,
> My digest this evening (4/4/02) had a virus. My server's mail filter picked
> up the JS/Kak@m virus and quarantined it.
> Jerry Jarrell
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 21:27:11 -0700
From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: replacement clearance light
You can try Airstream Dreams here:
http://airstreamdreams.com/category.html?UCIDs=1045720
This is for the grote style light ,Inland RV likely have them too:
http://www.inlandrv.com/
Take Care
Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Holevas Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 8:17 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Airstream Factory Couch
>
> We've acquired a dinette from Charlie Burke, and will be replacing our
> 1968 Globetrotter front "Gaucho" couch with it. The couch is a complete
> working factory unit, and includes the table as well. Cushions included,
> but they will need recovering. Contact us off list for details.
> Also, anyone happen to have an amber clearance light cover to replace
> the center one just stolen from our 1968 Globetrotter?
>
> Tom & Laurie Holden
>
> On Thursday, April 4, 2002, at 05:04 PM, VACList wrote:
>
> > Message Number: 7
> > Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 07:01:48 EST
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: ront couch sofabed
> >
> > Dear VAC members,
> >
> > The question about the front couch deserves a complete answer. The
> > correct
> > original "Gaucho" is almost always the best solution for the older
> > Airstream
> > Trailers in our humble opinion. The ingenuity and detail is far more
> > intricate and thought out than we ever imagined when we began our
> > restoration
> > project. So called plans on the internet were almost useless. We asked
> > other
> > VAC members for help with dimensions and photos. At the end of our
> > research
> > we knew more about the couch than people with functioning couches in
> > their
> > rigs. The couches are critical to the value & originality of the
> > restorable
> > rigs. Once that couch is lost...the value plummets.
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 06:37:19 -0700 (MST)
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
I went to the web site and he doesn't have any info on stripper yet. I
have left him an e-mail asking for details. I will share that with the
list when I get it. It's a non-toxic stripper that works on a new
principle.
On Thu, 4 Apr 2002, Webmaster wrote:
> Charlotte,
> The prior owner used steel wool when stripping the clearcoat from our '65
> You can experiment with the G6 removing the last bits of clearcoat, but be
> careful of removing too much alclad from around the spots by grinding away.
>
> Speaking of which, you might check out the stripper he recommends.
> http://www.perfectpolish.com/paint_stripper.htm
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 08:26:24 -0600
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: refinish, glue residue, sander suggestion
Don and others:
I had wondered about that--the veneer under the vinyl on my Argosy looks
great, and I'd thought about stripping the vinyl off and finishing the
veneer, but obviously the glue residue problem would need solving. Anyone
out there had any luck with any kind of solvent or stripper? Share it, and
liberate potentially hundreds of '70s coaches from vinyl!
Also--re: sanding veneer. I find sanding faster, cheaper, less messy, and
more uniform than stripping. The trick is a good sander. Most old fashioned
orbital sanders are horrible--heavy, noisy, slow, hard to control, eat
paper. Get a Porter Cable "Quicksand", Model 333. About $60 at Home Depot,
with the hook-and-loop fasteners. After going through 3 cheap sears sanders
in rapid succession, I asked the folks at WOOD magazine what was the best
finishing sander, and this was it. It is an amazing machine. Smooth, fast,
lightweight, small, easy to control, produces an incredibly smooth finish,
and sandpaper lasts forever. I've refinished 17 pieces of furniture, five
coats of poly each, sanding between all coats, two oak floors, a boat, and
countless other items with mine, and it is still going strong and a joy to
use. Also, you can get a foam rubber wax applicator pad for it that you can
use to wax and polish vehicles with. I've done five cars and my 26' argosy
with it, and used it with polish to remove oxidation from fiberglass
gel-coat on my boat and in my argosy's bath. One of the best machines I own.
Paid for itself in stripper and sandpaper many times over.
Dan
75 Argosy 26
> From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 17:04:07 -0800
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC]
>
> On my 1976 Sovereign I found that they had covered perfectly good wood =
> veneer with a thick vinyl wall covering. Although I can get the vinyl =
> covering off the glue they used is impossible to remove. Go figure, real =
> wood (veneer) covered by vinyl. Only in the 70's.
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 08:13:13 -0600
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: refinish, glue residue, sander suggestion
I have tried several different solvents and glue remover without any luck.
The glue was much better and had a longer life than the vinyl. I think my
next approach in getting back to a "real wood" look in my 76 as others have
in earlier models is to recover with the thin wood veneer sheets. I have
seen them at Loews and they go on pretty muck like wall paper. Then you just
trim, stain and varnish. This would even work over some of the faded out
Formica panels as well.
Don Hardman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Weeks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 8:26 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: refinish, glue residue, sander suggestion
> Don and others:
>
> I had wondered about that--the veneer under the vinyl on my Argosy looks
> great, and I'd thought about stripping the vinyl off and finishing the
> veneer, but obviously the glue residue problem would need solving. Anyone
> out there had any luck with any kind of solvent or stripper? Share it, and
> liberate potentially hundreds of '70s coaches from vinyl!
>
> Also--re: sanding veneer. I find sanding faster, cheaper, less messy, and
> more uniform than stripping. The trick is a good sander. Most old
fashioned
> orbital sanders are horrible--heavy, noisy, slow, hard to control, eat
> paper. Get a Porter Cable "Quicksand", Model 333. About $60 at Home Depot,
> with the hook-and-loop fasteners. After going through 3 cheap sears
sanders
> in rapid succession, I asked the folks at WOOD magazine what was the best
> finishing sander, and this was it. It is an amazing machine. Smooth, fast,
> lightweight, small, easy to control, produces an incredibly smooth finish,
> and sandpaper lasts forever. I've refinished 17 pieces of furniture, five
> coats of poly each, sanding between all coats, two oak floors, a boat, and
> countless other items with mine, and it is still going strong and a joy to
> use. Also, you can get a foam rubber wax applicator pad for it that you
can
> use to wax and polish vehicles with. I've done five cars and my 26' argosy
> with it, and used it with polish to remove oxidation from fiberglass
> gel-coat on my boat and in my argosy's bath. One of the best machines I
own.
> Paid for itself in stripper and sandpaper many times over.
>
> Dan
> 75 Argosy 26
>
> > From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 17:04:07 -0800
> > To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: [VAC]
> >
> > On my 1976 Sovereign I found that they had covered perfectly good wood =
> > veneer with a thick vinyl wall covering. Although I can get the vinyl =
> > covering off the glue they used is impossible to remove. Go figure, real
=
> > wood (veneer) covered by vinyl. Only in the 70's.
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 08:55:08 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: refinish, glue residue, sander suggestion
Constantines in NYC is a super place to find veneers. Even precut
inlays.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 12:05:49 -0500
From: Cynthia Grant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Polishing advice from Dan
Here are some postings from a polishing fanatic on an aviation list that I mentioned
in another message (forwarded with his permission). In addition to the info in his
postings below, he also refers people to the perfectpolish web site (http://www.perfec
Cynthia
-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel A McNeill [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 12:19 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; luscombe
Subject: Re: Luscombe: aluminum polish
Hi Linnard,
And welcome my brother to the quest for the perfect and most enlightened state of
polish! As it happens, I DO know the best method and technique to polish aluminum
airplanes. Others will have different opinions and methods but they are universally
uninfor
Nuvite is the best aluminum polish available.
The Cyclo buffer is the best polishing machine available.
Cotton fleece sweatshirt material is the ONLY material to use for
polishing aluminum.
Sources:
Nuvite can be bought directly from the company. Phone (800) 394-8351.
They have tech reps who will help you choose the right grade of polish
(Nushine IIS is the final grade of polish. Coarser polishes are
available depending on the aluminum's initial condition). The polish is
expensive at about $46/lb. but one pound will polish a Luscombe many
times. The SwiftParts website also sells Nuvite online. Go to
<http://www.swiftparts.com/> http://www.swiftparts.com/ and click on
"Exchange". They also have a very good video tape on polishing methods.
It is well worth the $30 in the confidence it will give you to go at the
airplane.
The Cyclo buffer can be purchased online at
<http://store.yahoo.com/tolae/index.html>
http://store.yahoo.com/tolae/index.html . Click on "detailing
equipment". They have the best price on this machine. Get the aluminum
body machine. It is industrial quality and will last a lifetime (they
have a new fiberglass bodied machine for less money but I'm a little
skeptical about how that will hold up...). An advantage of the aluminum
bodied machine is that you can polish the polisher! Not that any normal
person would choose to do that... no, that would definitely be a little
peculiar (...he said with a nervous and slightly guilty chuckle). You
can also hand polish using the Nuvite, but you won't last for long. It
is serious work using a machine... by hand is masochistic.
The sweatshirt material is wherever you can find it. Use the fleece side
to polish with. For a good laugh and a look at the dark side of
"Extreme" polish fanaticism, check out
<http://www.perfectpolish.com/index.htm#PerfectPolish>
http://www.perfectpolish.com/index.htm#PerfectPolish . This guy is
seriously disturbed... my kind of people. However, I get my rags from an
industrial rag supplier.
American Textile Mills
PO Box 4941 Kansas City, MO
64120
phone(800)800-7247
I use K-562 washed white fleece knit wipers $29.70 for 50 pounds
(shipping is nearly as costly as the rags... a local supplier is best if
you can find one).
So Linnard, are you ready to give yourself over completely to the lure of polished
aluminum? By the way, I see your signature has a "D.C." appendage. Can I assume you
are a chiropractor? If so, where do you live? I could use a good adjustment after a
few
Dan
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Daniel A. McNeill [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 9:59 PM
> To: Ron Shank; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Luscombe: Polishing
>
>
> Ron,
>
> I use Nuvite products exclusively.
> http://www.nuvite.thomasregister.com/olc/nuvite/home.htm
>
> I've tried everything else....nothing comes close to the
> quality finish this
> stuff yields. There are several grades of polishing
> compound...you need to
> call them and tell them what you have. They are extremely friendly and
> helpful folks and will steer you to the correct compound (I'm
> using Nushine
> S which is their finish polish...the aluminum looks like a mirror).
>
> Also, you really need to use a power polisher of some kind.
> The Cyclo dual
> head random orbit polisher is best but a bit spendy at $300.
> Any auto type
> polisher will work to start with. Even a grinder used
> judiciously is OK. Use
> cotton rags/buffing heads only!!! Anything else will cause
> more scratching
> in the aluminum than it will remove. The Cyclo polisher folks
> don't make a
> cotton buff...I cover the wool buffs with cotton sweatshirt
> material. Sounds
> like you just need to cut through a layer of oxidation to
> reach a clean
> surface....
>
> Dan
>
-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel A McNeill [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 11:58 AM
To: Luscombe Folks
Subject: Luscombe: Swift Polish Tape
Hey All,
Since the Olympics are over for another four years, I needed some entertainment to
hold me over. So, I bought the Swift boys polishing tape thinking it would be full of
Nuvite sniffing hairy guys with big honkin buffers. And it is.
The tape has pretty good production values and is well done. It is a little short.
But, it covers all the high points and gives good demonstrations of the various
techniques used to obtain that mirror finish. I learned a few things too! They give
lots of
Dan
p.s. The Swift Boys have a pretty good online store where you can buy the tape and
polishing supplies at... http://www.swiftparts.com/ You just need to ignore the fact
that they put the wing in the wrong place on their airplanes... otherwise they're okay
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Luscombe: L'Aire du Nuvite
Bob wrote...
"...Yea, Dan is a tricky dude, could probably have a cup of his latte' and
get a hint of Nuvite taste..."
Well Bob, you could probably smell the Nuvite fumes coming out of my pores
from 50 yards these days. I've been polishing a Cessna 195. It was terribly
neglected for many years but no more. It is once again becoming the naked
shiny thing it was meant to be.
And I have a new favorite tool. This airplane needed the full tilt complete
Nuvite work up starting with the oxide busting G6. This is serious stuff and
requires a serious tool with a whole lot more torque and power than that
delicate and dainty Cyclo. I needed a big ass grinder/polisher. I bought a
Fein variable speed, constant torque, electronically controlled jewel of
German tool manufacturing prowess. It weighs a mere 5 lbs. (very important
when polishing undersides of wings and fuselage bellies, etc.) and has
enough torque to wrench the airplane right out of it's wheel chocks. This
thing is way cool.
And I need to put in a plug for the online tool seller, Coastal Tool
http://www.coastaltool.com/ These folks are great... fast service... quick
email response (5 minutes!!!)... and the best prices around by far (at least
for this tool). I would recommend them without hesitation. If you buy
anything from them, tell them I sent you. The Nuvite cheapskates haven't
given me anything free yet but maybe these new guys will cough up a free
tape measure or something...
Dan
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 02 11:09:22 -0700
From: Roy Lashway <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: glue residue suggestion
>I have tried several different solvents and glue remover without any luck.
========
Someone way back when recommended a product called "Ooops!" that I found
at WalMart. I used it on contact cement residue and it softened it up for
removal. It might be worth a try on vinyl adhesive residue. It has a
pretty broad range of uses.
Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610 VAC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
(polishing report included)
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 12:46:52 -0600
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: glue residue suggestion
Tried Roy, didn't do a thing. Whatever this stuff is penetrated the wood and
is as hard as a rock. Its not gooey or sticky.
Don Hardman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Lashway" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 12:09 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: glue residue suggestion
> >I have tried several different solvents and glue remover without any
luck.
> ========
> Someone way back when recommended a product called "Ooops!" that I found
> at WalMart. I used it on contact cement residue and it softened it up for
> removal. It might be worth a try on vinyl adhesive residue. It has a
> pretty broad range of uses.
>
> Roy Lashway
> '78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
> WBCCI 1610 VAC
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
> (polishing report included)
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 15:07:36 -0800
From: "chyde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: refinish, glue residue, sander suggestion
Greetings all,
As we seem to be on the wood end of rebuilding Airstreams these days, I
thought I would add something. I recently purchased several 4' X 8' sheets
of white birch veneer for $56 per sheet from "Woodworker's Supply, Inc" of
Albuquerque, NM. They were shipped rolled up by Fed Ex for only $10 to
upstate NY. Check out their web site at www.woodworker.com
Colin Hyde,
57 Sovereign of the Road
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 02:45:33 -0800
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Digest Virus
Thanks to all who tracked down the virus in my machine. I used Symantec
anti-virus detection.
There were 70 infected files. I chose to manually delete all these files.
The lion's share were called "desktop.eml but there were others. Also watch
for files named kak.htm kak.*
I'm Bob not Charlotte:)
Have learned my lesson and will get a good virus protection program.
Thanks again,
Bob
Oceanside
66 Safari
> The originator is "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] So Charlotte, if
> you're still out there, you have more problems than clearcoat to deal with
> right now.
>
> RJ
> VAC Webmaster
>
>
> > From: Jerry Jarrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 22:36:53 -0500
> > To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: [VAC] Virus!
> >
> > J.R.,
> > My digest this evening (4/4/02) had a virus. My server's mail filter
picked
> > up the JS/Kak@m virus and quarantined it.
> > Jerry Jarrell
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: 05 Apr 2002 14:56:08 -0800
From: "Tom Toedter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: California Delta Rally
Due to cancellations, I have two spots open for the upcoming rally this month. Check
out the rally description on the VAC homepage and contact me if you're interested.
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 15:16:56 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: California Delta Rally
My trailer isn't quite ready. Are visitors welcome?
I live like 20 minutes away.
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Toedter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 2:56 PM
Subject: [VAC] California Delta Rally
> Due to cancellations, I have two spots open for the upcoming rally this
month. Check out the rally description on the VAC homepage and contact me
if you're interested.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 18:25:07 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Shock up date
(I forgot if I asked on this list or the A/S list about shock and bushing
removal so I'll post to both.) To prepare for Sunday's shock replacement
festivities I have sprayed the nuts a couple of times with a penetrating
catalyst this past week and made a bushing cutter to split the bushings in
the new shocks for easy installation. (I hope) The cutter was made from a 2
1/2 inch X 1/4 inch carriage bolt. I ground down the square area under the
head, then ground the head to a thin sharp circular blade. The head of the
carriage bolt fits inside the bushing, and the blade cuts deep enough to
slice the bushing thru to the shock. I mounted the cutter in a hand drill and
15 min later 4 shocks and 8 bushings were cut clean.
J.L.Dietz
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #264
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