VACList-Digest Wednesday, April 10, 2002 Issue 269
Today's Topics:
1. vac <63 bathroom removal
2. Re: vac <63 bathroom removal
3. Lower Curtain Rails
4. clearcoat strippers
5. Re: Lower Curtain Rails
6. Re: clearcoat strippers
7. Re: Lower Curtain Rails
8. - I N C I N O L E T -
9. Re: - I N C I N O L E T -
10. Discrimination
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 22:48:19 -0400
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: vac <63 bathroom removal
Hi VAC`ers ,
well today I learned that what holds the tub in when you think all the
rivets are drilled out . There are two screws covered
with filler putty on the side of the face frame of the sink cabinet , it
took me a minute or two , and a cigarette break to find them . Hope this
saves someone from scratching the old bald spot trying to find out why
the thing wont come out .
Next was to remove toilet , then on to the stinky tank drain .
Lucky me it has`nt been used in years . After drilling out the panel
that covers it , I find a bronze dump valve , with a drain coming from
the kitchen sink on one side , and the bathroom sink drain on the other
, like a tee with the sewer hose connect in middle. Neither one seems to
move enough to slip apart the joint ( sort of like a tailpiece on a sink
drain , but horizontal .) this needs to come apart in order to remove
the tank from above the floor . The screws which hold the slide valve
are rusted beyond recognition ,and appear to be studs from the underside
of tank , or really tight to it anyway .
So if anyone has been there and knows what I`m speaking of , how do
you go about taking this apart ? Cut the 1 1/4drain and use a couple
later ? grind off nuts from slide ?
And how do you go about replacing this apparatus with modern dump
valve , and rerouting grey water so it comes in underneath ,assuming
that a later dump valve`s bolts wont line up with this bronze fixture ?
A picture would be worth a thousand words , I`ll see if I can take one
next time I borrow the kiddo`s camera . Meanwhile if any one has seen
such a thing on a 63 , I `d like to know how you updated it , or if the
ancient slide valve can be rebuilt .
At anyrate ,it has to come apart , in order to get the BW tank out so I
can fix the floor I vacummed up .
Chris
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 22:23:47 -0500
From: Herb Spies <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: vac <63 bathroom removal
Look at
http://www.nwflorida.net/gt00004.htm
that shows my adventure doing this. In my case each of the drain pipes had
a rubber slip joint with stainless clamps less than a foot down the pipe
from the valve. So once these were loosened it was possible to remove the
tank along with the dump valve and the "tee". Mine wasn't bronze though it
was PVC. And I couldn't find anything like it at the local RV stores so I
had to repair several small cracks. Once I got the tank out I successfully
got the rusty bolts out and ran a tap thru the holes. Then coated the tank
fitting with por15 to hopefully slow down the rust and used new stainless
bolts to install a new valve.
Chris Elliott wrote:
> Hi VAC`ers ,
> well today I learned that what holds the tub in when you think all the
> rivets are drilled out . There are two screws covered
> with filler putty on the side of the face frame of the sink cabinet , it
> took me a minute or two , and a cigarette break to find them . Hope this
> saves someone from scratching the old bald spot trying to find out why
> the thing wont come out .
> Next was to remove toilet , then on to the stinky tank drain .
> Lucky me it has`nt been used in years . After drilling out the panel
> that covers it , I find a bronze dump valve , with a drain coming from
> the kitchen sink on one side , and the bathroom sink drain on the other
> , like a tee with the sewer hose connect in middle. Neither one seems to
> move enough to slip apart the joint ( sort of like a tailpiece on a sink
> drain , but horizontal .) this needs to come apart in order to remove
> the tank from above the floor . The screws which hold the slide valve
> are rusted beyond recognition ,and appear to be studs from the underside
> of tank , or really tight to it anyway .
> So if anyone has been there and knows what I`m speaking of , how do
> you go about taking this apart ? Cut the 1 1/4drain and use a couple
> later ? grind off nuts from slide ?
> And how do you go about replacing this apparatus with modern dump
> valve , and rerouting grey water so it comes in underneath ,assuming
> that a later dump valve`s bolts wont line up with this bronze fixture ?
> A picture would be worth a thousand words , I`ll see if I can take one
> next time I borrow the kiddo`s camera . Meanwhile if any one has seen
> such a thing on a 63 , I `d like to know how you updated it , or if the
> ancient slide valve can be rebuilt .
> At anyrate ,it has to come apart , in order to get the BW tank out so I
> can fix the floor I vacummed up .
> Chris
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 20:58:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Leggett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Lower Curtain Rails
I'm curious what other '60's owners have done with the
lower aluminum curtain rails. The ones on our 1968
Safari are about 3.5" wide and as a result they end up
poking you in the back when sitting on the lounges,
and ultimately pulled the rivets out of the wall.
Has anyone installed updated flush-mount lower rails
and turned the curtain attachments 90 degrees? Or is
there something else that can be done to make vintage
rails sturdier and more functional?
John Leggett
San Francisco
1968 Safari (almost roadworthy!)
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 06:03:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: clearcoat strippers
Just a word of caution. If I remember rightly, the
aircraft stripper is Methylene Chloride based.
Methylene Chloride is a great solvent because it is
potent and does not evaporate too quickly. BUT, it is
also a known carcinogen.
Now, don't get me wrong. I don't expect anyone to get
cancer just from stripping their AS. But, it is
important to avoid breathing lots of fumes when using
it or any other solvent. I generally use an
activiated carbon respirator (about $30 at your
friendly home improvement store) when working with
solvents for prolonged periods. However, I don't know
if they're effective with MC, since it is a
chlorinated solvent. Always store your carbon
cartridges in Aluminum foil after drying them out. It
will prolong their useful lives if in storage and will
fit with the general theme of all things aluminum.
I ordered a bottle of MC some years ago as an
emergency solvent for an industrial process. The
materials lab folks like to had a cow when it came in!
They let me keep it, but I had to promise to be
really careful with it.
You can also use it to de-caffienate your coffee.
Don't try this at home, but it is done by coffee
companies. This is done prior to roasting and the
heat supposedly evaporates it all away. Hmmm.
Well, gotta go get a cup of coffee--leaded, please!
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 10:29:24 -0400
From: Cynthia Grant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Lower Curtain Rails
I am also interested in this as our '68 Caravel doesn't have any lower rails. I have
noticed that some people just let their curtains hang, but I think it looks tidier to
have them secured on the bottom so that they follow the contours of the trailer.
Cynthia
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Leggett [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 10:58 PM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Lower Curtain Rails
>
>
> I'm curious what other '60's owners have done with the
> lower aluminum curtain rails. The ones on our 1968
> Safari are about 3.5" wide and as a result they end up
> poking you in the back when sitting on the lounges,
> and ultimately pulled the rivets out of the wall.
>
> Has anyone installed updated flush-mount lower rails
> and turned the curtain attachments 90 degrees? Or is
> there something else that can be done to make vintage
> rails sturdier and more functional?
>
> John Leggett
> San Francisco
> 1968 Safari (almost roadworthy!)
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary
> original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 11:00:37 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: clearcoat strippers
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Methylene Chloride needs to be used with a little common sense. When I first
got into the wood working trades we did refinishing and stripping on an
ongoing basis. we used a methylene cholride stripper exclusivly we usedv no
protective clothing at masks when working with it.OUr employers were too
cheep and didn't gave a damn about the employes welfare. We had no Ida that
it could be harmful to our health.Many times we did not have rubber gloves.
After stripping we washed dowh the furniture and pianoes with a very strong
trisodium phosphate in hot water. After 20 years of this I have suffered no
on going health provlems from this. This is not to say thatcaution is not
necessary but many of the things are not as hazzared as the "experts"lead us
to believe.Many things have been taken off the market because of possable
dangers to health and safty and have been replaced by many things that are
many times worse.(lineral polyutheran industeral paints)are an example.
Jim Smith
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><P ALIGN=CENTER><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"
FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Methylene Chloride needs to be used with a little common sense.
When I first got into the wood working trades we did refinishing and stripping on an
onJim Smith</P></FONT></HTML>
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Message Number: 7
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 14:48:02 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Lower Curtain Rails
Cynthia, my ' 68 Tradewind has an aluminum extrusion below the window with a
channel for the plastic tie down on the bottom of the drapes to slide in. My
previous two Airstreams had the same arrangement.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
' 71 Tradewind -- sold 1975
' 73 Sovereign -- sold 1988
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cynthia Grant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 10:29
Subject: [VAC] Re: Lower Curtain Rails
> I am also interested in this as our '68 Caravel doesn't have any lower
rails. I have noticed that some people just let their curtains hang, but I
think it looks tidier to have them secured on the bottom so that they follow
the contours of the trailer.
>
> Cynthia
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 17:00:52 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: - I N C I N O L E T -
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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So you say you are tried of dealing with holding tanks, the stinky =
slinky, chemicals and the order, well here is the answer. BURN it
http://www.incinolet.com/
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>So you say you are tried of dealing =
with holding=20
tanks, the stinky slinky, chemicals and the order, well here is the =
answer. BURN=20
it</FONT></DIV><BR> <A=20
href=3D"http://www.incinolet.com/";>http://www.incinolet.com/</A></BODY></=
HTML>
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Message Number: 9
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 16:17:11 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: - I N C I N O L E T -
Last time I looked this took a substantial power source. Not suitable
for boondocking on battery and not supplied in a propane version. But it
beats digging fresh holes each day in the boonies. At my suggestion
several years ago friends of mine installed one at their Canadian cabin.
But they have gone to the expense since then of creating a leaching
field (by hauling in a few feet of dirt to go on top the solid rock) so
they can use a conventional toilet. I've not heard them say it was bad,
just that they changed.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 18:44:25 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Discrimination
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Hello all: Being new to having a travel trailer, I realize I have been
somewhat poorly informed about where I can take it. I am preparing my 1969
AS Tradewind for its first trip. We are planning on going to Arizona (Tempe)
for two nights and then up around Globe for another two nights. I called a
trailer park in Tempe to find out rates and was surprised to hear the
questions "What year is it? and How does it look? I told her it was a 1969
and looks like an AirStream...kind of shines....and looked pretty good to
me....so much so that I would buy it. This wasn't good enough. She could
not guarantee me a spot until she "saw it" and even then probably not.
Obviously a lady without any taste! Anyway, anybody out there know where I
can stay that does not discriminate? And how do you all get used to this
attitude....is this common?
Tom Fairbank
1969 24 ft Tradewind (looks great)
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>Hello all: Being new to having a travel
trailer, I realize I have been somewhat poorly informed about where I can take it.
I am preparing my 1969 AS Tradewind for its first trip. We are planning
o<BR>Tom Fairbank
<BR>1969 24 ft Tradewind (looks great)</FONT></HTML>
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------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #269
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