Chuck,
If you have access to a video camera...have someone video you or set it up
on a tripod.  It will help you see where you need work.

Something you want to work on while you're practicing is hauling and
double-hauling, i.e., pre-loading the cast with a strong pull of line by
your non-casting hand just before the back-cast and fore-cast.

Off subject-  I'm working on setting up another trip to Loreto in Aug.   No
way to practice for that-  casting heavy salt-flies in every direction  and
at every distance to streaking dorado while standing on the bow of a panga
that's bobbing up and down like a big cork in the surf.  One main effort
while casting is minding the slack line.  If you get 'took', the slack is
gone in a second, and any hang-up means a lost fish from a snapped leader.
Worse yet is when the line wraps the back end of the reel or the rod-butt
and the dorado jerks the rod right out of your hand.  I know of two guys
this happened to.  Kiss about $1200 good-bye.  Hasn't happened to me yet,
but I'm wary to it and have a death-grip on the rod during the hook-up.

DonO


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chuck Alexander" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 9:50 AM
Subject: Re: [VFB] Casting heavy flies


> Thanks to everybody on the casting tips.. I think I'll start using these
> "fishing but not catching" days as "heavy fly casting practice" days..
> Thanks, Chuck
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Anthony Spezio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 10:16 AM
> Subject: RE: [VFB] Casting heavy flies
>
>
> > Allan,
> > You covered it, what I should of said when I said
> > "slow down the cast" did not mean a soft (slow) rod.
> > It meant to "SLOW" down the action of the cast. In
> > other words, give the line time it straighten out on
> > the back cast and the fwd cast. The heavy fly will
> > travel slower so more time is needed for the line to
> > straighten out. With all of this, the line can't loose
> > the speed it needs to stay straight so timing comes
> > into the problem. If the cast is brought fwd too soon,
> > you might get a tailing loop with a big tangle or a
> > hit on the back of the head . If the rod is dropped
> > too soon on the fwd cast, the line will flop down in a
> > pile. The same thing can happen if the line speed is
> > lost.
> > I cast somewhat different than some others, I still
> > get the line out and the fly where I want it. To me ,
> > that is what counts.
> > Tony
> > --- Allan Fish <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >> >so tony is a slow action rod better that a fast
> >> action rod?and how can one
> >> >tell?if a person is fishing with a hook size of 6
> >> to say20 do you need a
> >> >fast action rod.
> >>
> >> I'm not Tony, but I'm sure he will agree that
> >> neither a slow rod nor
> >> a fast rod is "better" than the other.
> >> They just take slightly different casting styles.
> >> Some people prefer
> >> a fast rod.  Some people prefer a slow rod.  A lot
> >> of people cast
> >> either type equally well.
> >>
> >> In reality, they shouldn't be called "slow" and
> >> "fast", since that
> >> gives a bad connotation.  They should more
> >> appropriately be called
> >> 'soft action' and 'firm action'.  Often they are
> >> called 'parabolic*
> >> action' and 'tip action'.  *parabolic because when
> >> the rod flexes the
> >> entire length, it becomes a parabola.
> >>
> >> I guess the "slow" moniker came up because you might
> >> have to delay
> >> your forward cast a milli-second or two longer with
> >> a soft action rod
> >> to allow it to 'load' properly.
> >>
> >> Allan, drifting slowly back under the overhanging
> >> bank.
> >> -- 
> >> Allan Fish
> >> Greenwood, IN
> >> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > __________________________________________________
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>
>
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