Dear Sir, you definitely made my day! From now on I will start measuring the awesomeness level in theonetruestickmans/m^3 :) Thanks a ton.
>> I'd bet the only real difference between the US & European model is in the line voltage power supply side of the board and the rest is pretty similar. To my eye there are some differences in layout on both sides (like on my board VR504 /the potted one/ is in the upper right corner and on your revision it's near the flyback), but apart from that they look similar to each other. BTW I have scanned both sides of my board and even if I won't vectorize them or even convert to a schematic, I will definitely upload them somewhere, because there's no documentation whatsoever. If you're interested I can also post some of my other photos showcasing the overall damage the monitor was suffering and some close ups of damaged parts. I will also make some restoration photos as soon as I start tinkering. There's a lot to be done - as I told you the PCB is totally empty. I have to clean some of the damaged traces and cover them with pcb varnish, install bridges and other components. That may take a while. Later on I will have to clean the board on the CRT (not the neck one) as it has some very bad blue corrosion. I have no idea how to get rid of the washing powder residues on the coils and around the CRT neck - normally I would use some alcohol or even demineralized water, but I'm affraid of ruining the dag layer on the CRT. Any ideas? Let me know if you're interested in the restoration process. And please leave your monitor disassembled for a day or two as I might need some more assistance:) W dniu piątek, 2 lutego 2018 14:14:54 UTC+1 użytkownik The One True Stickman napisał: > > Added to the folder - in case colors aren't visible, here are resistor > codes & values. All appear to be 1/8W carbon 5% except R521 & R423, which > look like a 1% metal film: > > R919 10K (Brown Black Orange) > R920 47K (Red Violet Orange) > R521 86ohm? (Violet Blue Black Gold 1% metal film - this one is hard to > read) > R523 12K (Brown Red Orange) > R423 68K (Blue Grey Black Red 1% metal film) > R506 6K8 (Blue Grey Red) > > Let me know if you need anything else, I didn't have more than a few > minutes today. > > I'd bet the only real difference between the US & European model is in the > line voltage power supply side of the board and the rest is pretty similar. > There's a photo of the entire board and one of just the signals/HV side. > For future searchers: I will upload these all to flickr or imgur as well > and post the link, as I won't keep them in dropbox forever. > > > > On Tue, Jan 30, 2018 at 1:57 AM, zgbapl <zg...@o2.pl <javascript:>> wrote: > >> >> is yours also a US model or an international? >> >> It's an european one. Seems like there are some differences between our >> models. Still, I'd like to see a few close shots of your board. >> >> So if you could take a pic of the following elements, that would be >> great. To make it easier, I'm gonna tell you rough directions (my board is >> facing the flyback down, so the CRT is on my right hand side) and their >> orientation. >> >> R919, R920 - two small ones, center right (under the CRT neck) in close >> proximity of Q905 transistor (with a big heat sink) and two blue disc caps; >> vertical >> R521 - near the flyback transformer, slightly above and on the left; >> horizontal >> R523 - slightly lower than the previous one; horizontal >> R423 - left to the J501 (vertical connector, lots of wires); horizontal >> R506 - far bottom left, above H-hold pot; horizontal >> >> Those are the troublesome ones. Please take a picture of the underside of >> the board - even if they are slightly different, I should be able to figure >> out the differences by looking at the connections. >> >> Many thanks. >> Mateusz >> >> W dniu wtorek, 30 stycznia 2018 00:19:06 UTC+1 użytkownik The One True >> Stickman napisał: >>> >>> Mine is an M1296 110V/60Hz US model, no G suffix - is yours also a US >>> model or an international? Some photos linked below, I can pull the boards >>> out if needed. >>> >>> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9s390k8gcva62e4/AABptFdkwVknxSDRcH_zyi40a?dl=0 >>> <https://www.google.com/url?q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.dropbox.com%2Fsh%2F9s390k8gcva62e4%2FAABptFdkwVknxSDRcH_zyi40a%3Fdl%3D0&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNFUXsgjhDrU1UsJR0EwscrU8WJr9A> >>> >>> On Mon, Jan 29, 2018 at 8:49 AM, zgbapl <zg...@o2.pl> wrote: >>> >>>> Oh, that would be great. If you don't mind, I'd tell you which >>>> close-ups I need the most. >>>> >>>> BR, >>>> Mateusz >>>> >>>> W dniu poniedziałek, 29 stycznia 2018 14:12:23 UTC+1 użytkownik The One >>>> True Stickman napisał: >>>>> >>>>> I think I have this monitor, but will have to dig it out of the closet >>>>> to check. If my memory is correct I'd be happy to grab some photos in the >>>>> next couple days >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, Jan 29, 2018 at 5:22 AM, zgbapl <zg...@o2.pl> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Hello there, >>>>>> >>>>>> some time ago I got my first Mac ever - an LCII with a 12" RGB >>>>>> Monitor. The whole setup was stored in a moist basement and >>>>>> unfortunately >>>>>> somebody has spilled some washing powder all over it. It turns out that >>>>>> this stuff is even more corrosive than battery acid. The computer itself >>>>>> was in a relative good condition. I had to replace some components, >>>>>> repair >>>>>> two broken traces and give it a good clean and after that it happens to >>>>>> work just fine. >>>>>> >>>>>> The monitor is a different story. It was very badly corroded, >>>>>> especially resistors were covered with rust. I have desoldered all of >>>>>> them >>>>>> but a few of them were faulty and I couldn't measure their values. Color >>>>>> bars were either washed out or totally covered with rust. I have figured >>>>>> out most of them but I still have some pure guesses. There's no (useful) >>>>>> service manual or schematic I could use. >>>>>> >>>>>> Before anybody tells me no to bother - I know that this stuff is >>>>>> neither vintage nor rare, but I'm really having fun trying to rescue old >>>>>> hardware. Right now I'm at the point where the PCB is totally emptied of >>>>>> any parts and once I fix the traces and cover them back with solder >>>>>> mask, I >>>>>> will start re-populating the board. >>>>>> >>>>>> TL;DR - is there anybody out there willing to disassemble his M1296G >>>>>> and take a few photos of the main board? >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks a lot. >>>>>> >>>>>> BR, >>>>>> Mateusz >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> -- >>>>>> ----- >>>>>> You received this message because you are a member of the Vintage >>>>>> Macs group. >>>>>> The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/vintagemacs.shtml and >>>>>> our netiquette guide is at >>>>>> http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml >>>>>> To post to this group, send email to vintag...@googlegroups.com >>>>>> To leave this group, send email to vintage-macs...@googlegroups.com >>>>>> For more options, visit this group at >>>>>> http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs >>>>>> >>>>>> Support for older Macs: http://lowendmac.com/services/ >>>>>> --- >>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>>>> Groups "Vintage Macs" group. >>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, >>>>>> send an email to vintage-macs...@googlegroups.com. >>>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> -- >>>> -- >>>> ----- >>>> You received this message because you are a member of the Vintage Macs >>>> group. >>>> The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/vintagemacs.shtml and >>>> our netiquette guide is at >>>> http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml >>>> To post to this group, send email to vintag...@googlegroups.com >>>> To leave this group, send email to vintage-macs...@googlegroups.com >>>> For more options, visit this group at >>>> http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs >>>> >>>> Support for older Macs: http://lowendmac.com/services/ >>>> --- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>> Groups "Vintage Macs" group. >>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>>> an email to vintage-macs...@googlegroups.com. >>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >>>> >>> >>> -- >> -- >> ----- >> You received this message because you are a member of the Vintage Macs >> group. >> The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/vintagemacs.shtml and our >> netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml >> To post to this group, send email to vintag...@googlegroups.com >> <javascript:> >> To leave this group, send email to vintage-macs...@googlegroups.com >> <javascript:> >> For more options, visit this group at >> http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs >> >> Support for older Macs: http://lowendmac.com/services/ >> --- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "Vintage Macs" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to vintage-macs...@googlegroups.com <javascript:>. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> > > -- -- ----- You received this message because you are a member of the Vintage Macs group. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/vintagemacs.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to vintage-macs@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send email to vintage-macs+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs Support for older Macs: http://lowendmac.com/services/ --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Vintage Macs" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to vintage-macs+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
