If you have a stock DUALPORT distributor it's worth a
shot. The vacuum-ONLY type used on singleports has its
own issues - it'll most likely provide too much
advance, too soon, which can harm the engine...I'd
choose the 009 over it.

--- Eric Larson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Would changing the distributor really make that much
> of a difference? I'm running a 009 cent only
> advance. I've heard people say that the cause
> hesitation, and I've heard others say they are
> better. Maybe I'll put the stock vacuum advance on
> and see how it works. I'll double check all the
> typical vacuum leak areas like you said. I might
> have missed something.
> 
> Eric
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Mike<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
>   To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion
> List<mailto:vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu> 
>   Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 8:27 PM
>   Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Carberator Problem?
> 
> 
>   The accel pump adjustment is to compensate for
> slight differences/wear in 
>   the accelerator pump itself and linkage slop ....
> If I remember from my 
>   rebuild kit and Bently manual, the spec on the
> pump is a certain number of 
>   CC's of fuel for a given number of "squirts" with
> the pump activated thru 
>   the throttle linkage. If you get too much total
> fuel, you adjust it back and 
>   vice versa.
> 
>   The stock main jet on the carb is a little on the
> lean side; this was part 
>   of the first attempts at exhaust emissions
> reduction on the engine. The 
>   stock main is a 127.5 and I replaced it with a
> 130....much better.
> 
>   Like Mark suggested, another possible cause for
> the stumbles is a blocked 
>   manifold heat riser or one with insufficient flow.
> If you have a stock 
>   muffler (or an aftermarket with the heat riser
> pigtail) make sure the end of 
>   the pigtail is centered in the exhaust outlet
> (remove the left tip, look 
>   into the muffler and you should see the outlet end
> of the pigtail centered 
>   in the opening....if it is cocked slightly, use a
> big screwdriver to center 
>   it... muffler exhaust flow around the end of the
> pigtail helps draw the heat 
>   riser exhaust flow. Check to make sure your center
> manifold to cylinder head 
>   riser rubber couplings are not leaking. Check to
> make sure your throttle 
>   plate bushings are not leaking air (unhook the
> return spring from the 
>   throttle arm and try to move it up and down/fore
> and aft....anything but the 
>   slightest hint of movement means you have worn
> bushings).
> 
>   mike
>   73T1
> 
> 
> 
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: "Eric Larson"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>   To: "vintagevwlist"
>
<vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu<mailto:vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu>>
>   Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 11:37
>   Subject: [vintagvw] Carberator Problem?
> 
> 
>   > What does the adjustment on the accel arm of a
> 34 Pict -3 carb supposed to 
>   > do? I assume it makes the accel pump squirt
> faster when you hit the 
>   > throttle? (I have the non-alternator carb that I
> modified to work.) 
>   > Problem is - hesitation. it hesitates after it's
> warmed up. The hesitation 
>   > isn't there when you rev it in neutral. Can you
> adjust that out with the 
>   > accel arm adjustments? Do I need bigger jets?
>   >
>   > I'm also running 33" mud tires, which I'm sure
> doesn't help things. They 
>   > really kill the power. No power off the start,
> and it hesitates when the 
>   > choke turns off. Anything below 2000 rpm is
> slow. Descent power till about 
>   > 3500 rpms, then slow again. Should I try
> different tires and see if the 
>   > flat spot disappears? Or should I adjust the
> carb some more? I have a set 
>   > of Kadrons. Would they help with the tire/power
> problem? Any ideas are 
>   > appreciated.
>   >
>   > Eric
>   > _______________________________________________
>   > vintagvw site list
>   >
>
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>   >
>
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw<http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw>
>   > 
> 
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