Mark,
Thanks for the clarification.  I've got two VW's using 009 distributors.
My '65 convertible has a dual port engine with a 30/31 carb (with adapter)
and dual muffler. This setup runs well, no problem with hesitation.
My '67 ghia came with a 30-Pict-1 carb and a 009, but had a bad hesitation.
I took off the Monza style muffler to find that the heat riser holes were not
drilled and the single port manifold heat riser pipe was plugged. 
Unfortunately,
when I reassembled the manifold, the stud on one of the heads became stripped
so I have a terrible vacuum leak.  I won't get back to fixing that engine until 
later
and will probably try a stock vacuum advance distributor.
Brian

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marc vellat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 12:22 AM
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Carberator Problem?


> So long as the SP vacuum-only distributor isn't giving
> too much advance at idle (easy to check, at a normal
> idle speed the timing shouldn't change when the vacuum
> advance line is disconnected) it's fine on a
> singleport - but the ported vacuum signal is greater
> from a 34PICT-3 than it is from any of the 30PICT
> carbs, so it's not a good idea to use one on a
> dualport unless you're prepared to fiddle with the
> return spring tension to dial it in for that
> application.
> The 0 231 178 009 distributor gets a lot of bad press,
> blaming it and it alone for a "flat spot" on
> acceleration. It's true that an SVDA or DVDA
> distributor will usually alleviate the problem to some
> degree (any engine will respond to more timing advance
> up to a point - the problem is knowing when to stop
> before it causes damage), but the root cause is lack
> of sufficient intake manifold heat...and it's worse on
> a dualport because the larger diameter of the intake
> tract reduces flow velocity. VW acknowledged that
> problem on `74 engines (dual preheat pipes) and on
> `75-up Euro-spec carbureted engines (a much larger
> preheat pipe, ~3/4"). I've never had a problem getting
> a 34PICT-3 to run OK with an 009 provided the manifold
> heat is good and the thermostatic aircleaner is
> working properly - WITHOUT plugging the throttle plate
> hole or richening the jetting more than one
> step...tampering with the carb like this is the wrong
> way to address the problem, it's all about intake
> temperature and off-idle timing.
>
> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
>> Marc,
>> Could you clarify your last post.  The thread was
>> about a problem
>> with a 34-Pict-3 carb (dual port); so can I assume
>> you're saying not
>> to mix and match VW parts of differing applications;
>> specifically the
>> single port vacuum only advance distributor with a
>> 34-PICT-3.  Or is there
>> a problem with the single port Vacuum advance
>> distributor even in
>> the stock application on the single port engine.  In
>> other words, do you
>> suggest using a 009 distributor instead of a stock
>> vacuum advance unit
>> on a single port motor (stock configuration)?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Brian
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "marc vellat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: "Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List"
>> <[email protected]>
>> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 7:43 PM
>> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Carberator Problem?
>>
>>
>> > If you have a stock DUALPORT distributor it's
>> worth a
>> > shot. The vacuum-ONLY type used on singleports has
>> its
>> > own issues - it'll most likely provide too much
>> > advance, too soon, which can harm the engine...I'd
>> > choose the 009 over it.
>> >
>> > --- Eric Larson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Would changing the distributor really make that
>> much
>> >> of a difference? I'm running a 009 cent only
>> >> advance. I've heard people say that the cause
>> >> hesitation, and I've heard others say they are
>> >> better. Maybe I'll put the stock vacuum advance
>> on
>> >> and see how it works. I'll double check all the
>> >> typical vacuum leak areas like you said. I might
>> >> have missed something.
>> >>
>> >> Eric
>> >>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>> >>   From: Mike<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >>   To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion
>> >> List<mailto:[email protected]>
>> >>   Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 8:27 PM
>> >>   Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Carberator Problem?
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>   The accel pump adjustment is to compensate for
>> >> slight differences/wear in
>> >>   the accelerator pump itself and linkage slop
>> ....
>> >> If I remember from my
>> >>   rebuild kit and Bently manual, the spec on the
>> >> pump is a certain number of
>> >>   CC's of fuel for a given number of "squirts"
>> with
>> >> the pump activated thru
>> >>   the throttle linkage. If you get too much total
>> >> fuel, you adjust it back and
>> >>   vice versa.
>> >>
>> >>   The stock main jet on the carb is a little on
>> the
>> >> lean side; this was part
>> >>   of the first attempts at exhaust emissions
>> >> reduction on the engine. The
>> >>   stock main is a 127.5 and I replaced it with a
>> >> 130....much better.
>> >>
>> >>   Like Mark suggested, another possible cause for
>> >> the stumbles is a blocked
>> >>   manifold heat riser or one with insufficient
>> flow.
>> >> If you have a stock
>> >>   muffler (or an aftermarket with the heat riser
>> >> pigtail) make sure the end of
>> >>   the pigtail is centered in the exhaust outlet
>> >> (remove the left tip, look
>> >>   into the muffler and you should see the outlet
>> end
>> >> of the pigtail centered
>> >>   in the opening....if it is cocked slightly, use
>> a
>> >> big screwdriver to center
>> >>   it... muffler exhaust flow around the end of
>> the
>> >> pigtail helps draw the heat
>> >>   riser exhaust flow. Check to make sure your
>> center
>> >> manifold to cylinder head
>> >>   riser rubber couplings are not leaking. Check
>> to
>> >> make sure your throttle
>> >>   plate bushings are not leaking air (unhook the
>> >> return spring from the
>> >>   throttle arm and try to move it up and
>> down/fore
>> >> and aft....anything but the
>> >>   slightest hint of movement means you have worn
>> >> bushings).
>> >>
>> >>   mike
>> >>   73T1
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>> >>   From: "Eric Larson"
>> >> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>> >>   To: "vintagevwlist"
>> >>
>> >
>>
> <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
>> >>   Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 11:37
>> >>   Subject: [vintagvw] Carberator Problem?
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>   > What does the adjustment on the accel arm of
>> a
>> >> 34 Pict -3 carb supposed to
>> >>   > do? I assume it makes the accel pump squirt
>> >> faster when you hit the
>> >>   > throttle? (I have the non-alternator carb
>> that I
>> >> modified to work.)
>> >>   > Problem is - hesitation. it hesitates after
>> it's
>> >> warmed up. The hesitation
>> >>   > isn't there when you rev it in neutral. Can
>> you
>> >> adjust that out with the
>> >>   > accel arm adjustments? Do I need bigger jets?
>> >>   >
>> >>   > I'm also running 33" mud tires, which I'm
>> sure
>> >> doesn't help things. They
>> >>   > really kill the power. No power off the
>> start,
>> >> and it hesitates when the
>> >>   > choke turns off. Anything below 2000 rpm is
>> >> slow. Descent power till about
>> >>   > 3500 rpms, then slow again. Should I try
>> >> different tires and see if the
>> >>   > flat spot disappears? Or should I adjust the
>> >> carb some more? I have a set
>> >>   > of Kadrons. Would they help with the
>> tire/power
>> >> problem? Any ideas are
>> >>   > appreciated.
>> >>   >
>> >>   > Eric
>> >>   >
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