Sammy, Clearancing a bellhousing.
When I decided to install a 1776cc engine in my '62 Single Cab, I knew I had to clearance the bellhousing. What I did was to "build" a dummy engine to aid in this endeavor. I took a 1500/1600cc engine case, installed a crankshaft in a good set of bearings, and added a twelve-volt 200mm flywheel on one end and a crank pulley on the other. I cleaned the inside of the bellhousing and sprayed it with black paint. I then installed the dummy engine using the two lower studs of the engine case and aligned it as well as I could. By turning the crank pulley the flywheel would mark the inside of the bellhousing. I'd then remove the dummy engine and begin removing material with a die grinder and a carbide burr. I had to repeat this process several times until the dummy engine would go all the way into the bellhousing without the flywheel touching the bellhousing. After the last trial fit I removed the dummy engine and cleaned up the mess of aluminum powder I had created. It's best to wear eye and lung protection when doing the grinding. :o) Larry in Scottsdale "Always learning" ----- Original Message ----- From: S. Truong To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 11:04 AM Subject: [vintagvw] 6v/12v conversion question Hello, So the time has come to install my ebay'd 40 horser in my '56 beetle and I realized I hadn't dealt with the bell housing situation. Is it still suggested to just grind that thing out to get the flywheel to fit? I heard a fun rumor about firing up the motor and actually using the flywheel's teeth to cut the material out; sounds... exciting! Do other less adventurous people just use an angle grinder and go to town? What's a good way to determine how much material to remove? (Does this area include the tranny mount bolts?) What other options are there? Thanks in advance. Regards, Sammy _______________________________________________ vintagvw site list [email protected] http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
