Marc et all,

    Yes I see on the label 'API MT-1'......so I can continue with this oil?? 
GL4 is easily avlbl...if you guys say so I can drain n put that in.

    Yes you are right about the jap bearings and counterfiet 
probs.....something very very common in this part of the globe.....

    Have something sad to report.......Since I changed the oil I had decided 
to ground the bug till I got time to change the bearings.....(of course I 
would check the front ones too, tho I believe they are ok)........But as 
dads car was occupied, had to take my baby for work.......a 12KM journey one 
way.

   Bug went fine apart from the grinding/vibratory noise from the 
bearings........parked her fine at work. Have nite duties so came in the 
morning to the parkin lot to start the bug. Started fine. Usually I always 
let her idle for a good minute but as I was in a hurry took of in just 20 or 
so secs.

   There was a good amount of vibration when pulling off and changing gears. 
Thought it was due to the cold engine. Went on slowly but noticed the car 
really acted up esp when put into third gear. Idling and witout load 
performance was fine. This was a sunday morning so I stopped under a shady 
tree, regapped the breaker point made sure all wires were snug, checked n 
adjusted the timing and then took off. The situation improved by about 
50%......took the car on the main road......it acted for the next couple of 
kilometers but then after warming up car was perfectly al rite as far as 
running goes.

   Discussed this with a mech. He says the clutch plate is busted. But what 
I cannot understand is why would it suddenly give up like this???? And why 
would it come alive again after the cars been run for around 4 km??

   The clutch plate is about 15 thousand KILOMETREs old......it was running 
for sometime with a badly adjusted pedal but would it give up so 
suddenly????

   Im stumped at this. A close friends wedding celebrations have come up so 
Im busy there for about a week more. Have garaged the bug while I hijack 
dads ride.

   Would dive headfirst into this in the coming week with a complete 
dismantling of the rear suspension for bearing change, inspection and 
setting the rear height.

   Need your input and theories on this scenario.

TIA

Asad.




>From: marc vellat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List <[email protected]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED],        Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List 
><[email protected]>
>Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Busted rear wheel bearings??
>Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 23:48:52 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Read the label. If the GL-5 meets the "MT-1"
>specification (as all produced in recent years does)
>then it'll be OK to leave in your transmission. But
>Gerald's right, GL-4 is the right stuff if you can
>find it.
>As for the bearings, Japanese aren't that bad but
>there is a huge problem with counterfeit parts -
>doesn't matter much what the country of origin appears
>to be if in truth they're knock-offs made in some back
>alley in India. I believe VW used SKF (German)
>bearings, at least for the most part - but if there
>was a supply problem, maybe a factory burnt down,
>they'd have to source parts elsewhere for a while.
>If you're feeling vibration in the steering wheel, I'd
>suggest you start by servicing the FRONT wheel
>bearings. Be aware that the inside diameter of the
>inner bearings and grease seals were both increased by
>~1mm in mid`68 - be sure that you use parts
>appropriate for the spindles on your car (if the
>tierod nuts take a 17mm wrench you have the early,
>smaller style; if 19mm they're late-style.
>
>
>--- "Gerald V. Livingston II" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>wrote:
>
> > On Sat, 01 Sep 2007 07:48:53 +0000 asad ishaque
> > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> >
> > >      A couple of days ago I went to top up the
> > gear oil as I was fearing a
> > > low oil level starving the rear bearings. I came
> > across the GL5 rated oil
> > > for which I had been keeping my eyes peeled since
> > ages. I had been running
> > > GL4 oil due to non availablity.
> > >
> > >     Well, I had the old GL4 oil drained and put in
> > GL5. The magnetic drain
> > > plugs had a bit of crud containing fine shavings
> > which formed a glittery
> > > design when pressed between fingers. It did not
> > FEEL gritty.
> >
> > > Asad
> > > Karachi, Pakistan.
> >
> > DRAIN the GL-5 and replace it with GL-4 --- NOW!
> > GL-5 has a higher sulphur
> > content that will eat up your old brass syncros
> > FAST. We have the problem
> > here in the U.S.A that plain GL-4 is getting hard to
> > find whle GL-5 or
> > GL-4/5 is everywhere.
> >
> > Gerald
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > vintagvw site list
> > [email protected]
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
> >
>
>
>
>
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