Thankful as ever to you guys!
Yes while there I would also examine the conduits. Thanks for the
reminder. Goes on my thing to do list.
I will be having this work done for the first time in a garage. Earlier
all mech work was done in the driveway either by myself n suley or by
inviting mechs over n then workin alongside.
This one needs the facitlities of a shop with welding for the pedal stop
n especially brute force tools/heat n wat not for taking the damned pedal
cluster bolt out.
Will keep in mind the adjustments of the brake pushrod.
Work starts tomorrow if all goes well. Wil keep you guys posted.
Best regards,
Asad
Karachi, Pakistan.
>From: marc vellat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List <[email protected]>
>To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List <[email protected]>
>Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Busted rear wheel bearings??
>Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 10:49:13 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Usually when the tunnel is cut open it's because
>access was needed to weld the clutch cable conduit in
>place (a loose tube is another cause and/or symptom of
>clutch chatter). There's also a mounting tab near the
>center of the tube - below the handbrake pivot, you
>can see it with a good light - that often breaks.
>Sounds like your first order of business should be to
>fix the stripped threads for the pedal-cluster bolt.
>You may need to use that hole in the tunnel to get in
>there and weld a new nut inside...
>When adjusting the pedal stop be sure that you keep a
>slight amount of freeplay in the master cylinder
>pushrod or you'll have problems with the brakes
>binding up when driving. The pushrod length is
>adjustable but unless someone has tampered with it
>that shouldn't be necessary, you should be able to set
>the stop to hold the pedals where they belong,
>approximately 200mm from the firewall, while
>maintaining 1mm of pushrod freeplay (that's about 6mm
>at the brake pedal). Sometimes the stop is eroded and
>needs to be tweaked straight and built back up with
>weld, and sometimes the floorboard where the stop
>anchors needs repair. I've done a few "quick fixes"
>for this problem short of floorpan replacement by
>drilling a hole in an old oil pump cover and welding a
>nut to it for the pedal-stop bolt to screw into, after
>the original nut has been cut off the floorboard.
>
>--- asad ishaque <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> > --Pedal cluster removal, inspection and probably
> > swap. Have a very good
> > complete set with me. The original on the car had
> > its clutch cable hook
> > broken many years ago. It was welded by a not so
> > competent mechanic back
> > then. Further that rascal butchered the centre
> > tunnel to gain access to the
> > hook and cable. This needs to be welded shut. Also
> > the brake pedal is
> > sitting too close to the driver. Probably the stop
> > plate on the floor needs
> > tweaking/repair. One of the bolts holding the assy
> > to the tunnel has slipped
> > threads. This needs to be drilled out and new bolts
> > put in to make a
> > headache free setup.
>
>
>
>
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