Guys,
Here I am with a long belated update. Heres the situation now:
Work done on the car:
-Rear supension height adjustment. Findings were worn torsion arm bushings and
a disintegrating left rear wheel bearing. The left suspension when put together
did not have much travel ie was still stiff. The mech took the torsion rod out
and squirted oil into the tube. Said the insides were jammed. After this things
were good. If I m not mistaken the torsion rod goes into splines which are
FIXED in place? How did the oil cure the issue I wonder?
-The rear suspension was only adjusted eyeballing the whole setup. No special
tools used. The guy is an old timer and says things come up good. Use of
special tools is almost non existent in this part of the
world....unfortunately. I *think* the left side sits a bit higher. Will confirm
with some simple measurements and if theres a discrepancy would ask the guy to
go at it again.
-New seals were put in with the bearing replacement of course. One of the
plates covering the side of the bearing was pried of prior to installation. The
exposed side was left to face towards the transmission.
-The whole pedal assy was diamnatled and some horrow tales which were expected
were brought to light. Clutch cable hook repaired before. Slipped nuts n bolts
here n there. Broken bolt holding the assy to the floor near the accelerator
end. All these problems were addressed and cured. Now the whole setup is almost
as originally intended even with the half moon locks (located by myself at a
hardware store n VW parts shop). Should be a pleasure to work on in future. A
complete pedal assy sourced earlier was bolted in place after being cleaned,
lubricated and inspected.
-Horrors discovered. Frame head area having major rust issues. Got it all
welded up but not satisfied with the quality of work done. Can anyone guide me
through a proper method for repairing/replacing the framehead. This would have
to be done a couple of years down th eline I figure.
-Everything was put back together. Ride quality has a MAJOR positive
difference. Goes into bumps n craters with ease and almost no noises.
-The front suspension was being suspected by the mech. He says there is not
enough travel. The shocks were brand new Federal Mogul items put in a few years
ago. Car has not been driven much. Still they appear stiff. Disuse as against
misuse maybe? Mech says the spring plates inside the beam may be broken. When I
installed the beam at home, I did clean up the whole thing and pulled the
leaves out as a bunch till almost the middle for a good clean. Did not take
them all out for fear they would not go in. I dont think they were broken then.
Does this need a check?
-While getting the framehead welded the Brake master cylinder had to be
unbolted. In this process we ended up replacing ALL the brake hard lines with
new ones. Good for a daily driver running a single circuit MC. But as of now
after parking the car brake fuid is all over the driveway. I suspect the rubber
grommet for the reservoir and/or the plastic tube which connects here. Will
look at it and sort out the issue soon.
-After all this work....the test run. Car runs better. Accelerator responsive
to feather touch, thanks to a greased conduit and new cable. Rear suspension
feels good. But heres the biggest problem.....
Theres still a whinning noise...like a wheel bearing is worn plus vibration
coming from the rear end......heard only 9maybe louder?) when I cruise on a
long road at speed.
So guys what could this be??? I had got a pair of large bearings which go
on the gearbox where the axles meet. Could it be that these bearings are shot
too? Or maybe its the trans itself??? Where could the problem lie??
The mech says theres a possibility the clutch n pressure plates are
shot.....but would this make a NOISE as I describe??? I thought that comes up
with a decrease in performance caused by slippage etc.......input please?
I have resolved never to tinker on my bug at the shop again as its
inconvinient, I cant participate much as Im in my 'non VW' clothes etc. Plan to
take the engine down soon along with a mech (the old timer or another bloke if
he refuses to come over) and see what I find.
Waiting for your thoughts on all the issues.
Regards,
Asad
Karachi, Pakistan.
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected]> Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007
> 14:29:17 +0000> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Busted rear wheel bearings??> >
> Thankful as ever to you guys!> > Yes while there I would also examine the
> conduits. Thanks for the > reminder. Goes on my thing to do list.> > I will
> be having this work done for the first time in a garage. Earlier > all mech
> work was done in the driveway either by myself n suley or by > inviting mechs
> over n then workin alongside.> > This one needs the facitlities of a shop
> with welding for the pedal stop > n especially brute force tools/heat n wat
> not for taking the damned pedal > cluster bolt out.> > Will keep in mind the
> adjustments of the brake pushrod.> > Work starts tomorrow if all goes well.
> Wil keep you guys posted.> > Best regards,> > Asad> Karachi, Pakistan.> > >
> >From: marc vellat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> >Reply-To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen
> Discussion List <[email protected]>> >To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen D!
iscussion List <[email protected]>> >Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Busted rear
wheel bearings??> >Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 10:49:13 -0700 (PDT)> >> >Usually
when the tunnel is cut open it's because> >access was needed to weld the clutch
cable conduit in> >place (a loose tube is another cause and/or symptom of>
>clutch chatter). There's also a mounting tab near the> >center of the tube -
below the handbrake pivot, you> >can see it with a good light - that often
breaks.> >Sounds like your first order of business should be to> >fix the
stripped threads for the pedal-cluster bolt.> >You may need to use that hole in
the tunnel to get in> >there and weld a new nut inside...> >When adjusting the
pedal stop be sure that you keep a> >slight amount of freeplay in the master
cylinder> >pushrod or you'll have problems with the brakes> >binding up when
driving. The pushrod length is> >adjustable but unless someone has tampered
with it> >that shouldn't be necessary, you should be able to s!
et> >the stop to hold the pedals where they belong,> >approxim!
ately 20
0mm from the firewall, while> >maintaining 1mm of pushrod freeplay (that's
about 6mm> >at the brake pedal). Sometimes the stop is eroded and> >needs to be
tweaked straight and built back up with> >weld, and sometimes the floorboard
where the stop> >anchors needs repair. I've done a few "quick fixes"> >for this
problem short of floorpan replacement by> >drilling a hole in an old oil pump
cover and welding a> >nut to it for the pedal-stop bolt to screw into, after>
>the original nut has been cut off the floorboard.> >> >--- asad ishaque
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:> >> >> > > --Pedal cluster removal, inspection and
probably> > > swap. Have a very good> > > complete set with me. The original on
the car had> > > its clutch cable hook> > > broken many years ago. It was
welded by a not so> > > competent mechanic back> > > then. Further that rascal
butchered the centre> > > tunnel to gain access to the> > > hook and cable.
This needs to be welded shut. Also> > > the brake ped!
al is> > > sitting too close to the driver. Probably the stop> > > plate on
the floor needs> > > tweaking/repair. One of the bolts holding the assy> > > to
the tunnel has slipped> > > threads. This needs to be drilled out and new
bolts> > > put in to make a> > > headache free setup.> >> >> >> > >
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