Thanks marc for the lessons in VW wisdom!
I plan to get my hands into all this pending wok in a couple of days.
WIll check all the things you mention.
Heres a rough list of what I would like to accomplish in this upcoming
'mission'
-- Rear wheel bearing change. (Have a set of bearings from the
junkyard....look good....made in england.....also have a set of new
bearings.....may buy another new pair if I locate some from a reputable shop
as Im not too happy about the looks of the new set).
--Inspection of the front wheels bearings like Marc suggested. Im quite sure
they are good but if Marc tells me something its word-of-the-VW-gods!!!
--Rear spring plate dismantling to change the rubber bushes, any worn parts
and to reset the rear ride height.....currently the bug sags from the rear
with the left side a little more down)
--Rear wheel drum plus backing plate swap. Got a good set from the junkyard
earlier. Ill see which ones are better comparing the current n new set.
--Pedal cluster removal, inspection and probably swap. Have a very good
complete set with me. The original on the car had its clutch cable hook
broken many years ago. It was welded by a not so competent mechanic back
then. Further that rascal butchered the centre tunnel to gain access to the
hook and cable. This needs to be welded shut. Also the brake pedal is
sitting too close to the driver. Probably the stop plate on the floor needs
tweaking/repair. One of the bolts holding the assy to the tunnel has slipped
threads. This needs to be drilled out and new bolts put in to make a
headache free setup.
-- Removal, inspection and probably renewal of both accelerator and clutch
cables. The conduit would be cleaned thoroughly before being packed with
fresh grease. The Bowden tube would be inspected n scrutinized like Marc
suggested.
-- While Im in this territory.......removal of the shift lever rod with
cleaning, lubrication and reinstallation using new plastic (front) and
rubber (rear) bushes.
Im hoping that all this work wouldhelp me rid of......
---Annoying noise from the rear drivetrain.
---A much better rear suspension quality....presently car shakes and makes a
lot of noise while going over bumpy roads.....something abundant in this
part of the world.
---A smooth clutch.
---A tighter shift rod.
So hoping to fweem sweeter till this weekend! Will keep you guys posted
on progress.
Best regards,
Asad
Karachi, Pakistan.
From: marc vellat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List <[email protected]>
To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Busted rear wheel bearings??
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 10:31:16 -0700 (PDT)
The gear lube will be OK. GL-5 is what's recommended
for newer (water-pumper) VWs - they use different
materials for the synchro rings.
There's many things which can cause clutch chatter.
Bad/loose front mount, insufficient Bowden tube
preload, cable or pedal binding, bent or contaminated
clutch disc, broken springs in a spring-center disc,
broken/warped spring(s) in the clutch cover,
hard-spots on the friction surface of the cover or
flywheel...
Often two or more of these conditions are present, but
not too bad - together they can cause a problem,
though. And it's not unusual for the symptom to change
in response to the temperature of the clutch
components - a contaminated disc or hard-spotted
flywheel/cover is sensitive to heat.
Start with the easy stuff. Check that the front mount
nuts are all tight. Remove the Bowden tube, clean it
out and inspect the inside liner. Replace it if it
looks bad, otherwise pack with grease and reinstall,
using washers at the back end to force about 1½" of
"sag" into the tube. If the symptom persists, try a
little more preload - many times that's sufficient to
reduce the chatter to a tolerable level even when
there's something else wrong. But do go after the real
problem as soon as you have a chance, driving with a
chattering clutch can lead to further damage -
including to the transmission internals.
--- asad ishaque <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Marc et all,
>
> Yes I see on the label 'API MT-1'......so I can
> continue with this oil??
> ...Bug went fine apart from the grinding/vibratory
> noise from the
> bearings........parked her fine at work. Have nite
> duties so came in the
> morning to the parkin lot to start the bug. Started
> fine. Usually I always
> let her idle for a good minute but as I was in a
> hurry took of in just 20 or
> so secs.
>
> There was a good amount of vibration when pulling
> off and changing gears.
> Thought it was due to the cold engine. Went on
> slowly but noticed the car
> really acted up esp when put into third gear....it
acted
> for the next couple of
> kilometers but then after warming up car was
> perfectly al rite as far as
> running goes.
>
> Discussed this with a mech. He says the clutch
> plate is busted. But what
> I cannot understand is why would it suddenly give up
> like this???? And why
> would it come alive again after the cars been run
> for around 4 km??
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