I'll preface this by saying that I'm not completely
knowledgable on non-US-market transmissions..but I'll
answer your questions the best I can based upon what I
do know - or at least I think I know ;)
Generally VW used a 4.375:1 R&P on 1200 and 1300cc
-engined cars, and a 4.125:1 on 1500 & 1600s. In the
US market, all our `66s were 1300cc and all our
`67-`69s were 1500cc. The codeletters preceding the
trans serial number should give a clue, both of the
boxes you're dealing with should be "AB" (4.375:1)
IIRC; an "AC" would be 4.125:1. There's possibility of
a 6% difference in gearing, most of which could be
compensated for with tire-size selection if it cmae
down to it.
All pre`67 Type I transmissions had "short" axles,
with short brake drum splines to suit the 5x205mm
drums.
In the US market, `67s had short-splined long axles
and unique axle tubes with slightly shorter bearing
retainers than the `68s had - resulting in a slightly
wider track width for the `67 even though the axle
length from inner-end to bearing was the same
(apparently they moved the axles inboard slightly in
`68 to increase their engagement with the fulcrum
plates)...it's a small difference, only worth
mentioning because if you use mismatched tubes and
retainers you'll have BIG problems - keep them
together as matched sets.
Again in the US market, `67s had the early 5x205mm
bolt pattern and short-splined long axles (except for
the Karmann-Ghia); `67 'Ghias and `68 bugs/'Ghias had
4x130mm and long-splined long axles. `67/`68 `Ghias
and disc-brake-equipped Euro-spec Beetles had the
4x130mm lug pattern, with long-splined long axles. `67
was a unique year for both, since they still used the
same skinny-shoe rear brakes with 19.05mm wheel
cylinders (the original-equipment 4-lug drums were
weird - long-splined but narrow at the friction
surface (by now I'd suppose that most of them have
been replaced with "normal" 4-lug drums). In `68, the
rear shoe width was increased and the wheel cylinder
bore reduced to 17.46mm. The backing plate offset is
different depending upon the wheel cylinder size and
shoe width; and of course 4-lug backing plates need
slots in them to access the adjusters since you can't
get to them through the drums like on the 5-lug.
None of the above should matter much to you if you'll
be swapping in the entire transaxle with brakes - but
keep these differences in mind should you decide to
start interchanging parts.
There's a brass bushing in the shift housing ("nose
cone" which can be replaced (or you could simply swap
nosecones for one with a better bushing) - that alone
would not necessitate replacing the entire
transmission.
Before you loosen the axletube-to-springplate bolts,
scribe a line into the springplate around the
perimeter of the end casting; as you tighten the bolts
down while installing the "new" transmission, align
the end castings carefully with these marks and your
rear wheel alignment should be fine (assuming it was
good when you started). If you do experience any
strange wandering sensations or abnormal tire wear
you'll want to seek the services of an alignment shop
that has 4-wheel capability )and at least knows a
little about VWs) to get it set just right. Personally
before I made that expenditure I'd first replace the
rubber bushings at the outboard ends of the torsion
bars (when they're sloppy the rear alignment is too)
to be sure I was going to get my money's worth.
--- asad ishaque <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Well well.....Should the need arise to say goodbye
> to the original transmission on 1300 68 would one
> from a 67 1300 bug be suitable?Have a seemingly good
> transmission in store. Bought it from a scrap dealer
> who had mercilessly hacked up a cherry 67. If I know
> right theres no diffrence between the gear ratios
> etc of the two?Forgot to mention one more thing. My
> orig trans' rod which connects tothe under rear seat
> rod has a lot of play. Theres a metal bushing kinda
> thingy loose on this shaft. Guess thats all the more
> reason to see it go.....The 'new' trans comes
> complete with the axles and drum backing
> plates.Would all these be compatible or do I change
> the backing plates?What are the dos and dont of a
> trans swap??? How t ensure that the rear wheel
> allingnment and geometry are not messed up in the
> process?
> TIAAsadKarachi, Pakistan.
>
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