Okay!
Lots of questions here. and some findings.
Findings first. The part number on the trans is as follows: 46 at the top
followed down by 113.301.103 followed down by a 0 (or maybe its a D) and then
finally the round VW logo. I did not see any alphabets preceding the numbers as
Marc said. I was looking at the RHS of the box for these numbers. Does a number
appear elsewhere too??
I made a discovery by trying to fit a rear post 68 brake drum onto the axle.
The splines are same since it slid right up. But the threads hardly stuck out
for the big castle nut to go on. Just two or three threads. So the axles are
shorter than post 68.
Now weighing my options I realise I have three paths to choose from:
1. I drop my engine and trans and then dismanlte the original axles at the
trans side only and then fit the pair as it is to the 67 trans. The orig ones
just recieved new outer wheel bearings so the whole assembly should be a good
bolt on setup provided the 67 trans accepts it without issues.
2. I start tinkering with the orig trans. I have two really big bearings with
me which were given to me by the junkyard contact when I was about to embark on
the rear spring plate and wheel bearing job. He had suggested I replace those
too but since it meant dismantling at the trans side of the axles this was
skipped. Maybe these are worn in the orig trans and the source of the noise??
Apart from this I also have some gears stashed somewhere. I believe thats
the pinion gear with bearing. The junkyard man had said these can go bad so
keep a spare with you.
Also the orig trans has a bad nose cone. Doesnt give trouble as such but
the shifter is sloppy and noisy (hafta replace the shifter rod bush too). If
you see under the rear seat inspection plate you see a LOT of play in the trans
shaft and the brass bush is loose and wiggling around. So the nose cone has to
be swapped either with the 67 one or I hafta get one from the junkyard as Marc
suggests.
3. Get another trans. Last time I checked the junkyard had a 1970 vintage trans
said to be in good shape. But the axle tubes were dismantled. Id prefer buying
a complete unit with the axle tubes. Another shop has supposedly a few units
imported from abroad said to be in real good shape. Asking price is about
double those of the locally available ones (from local scrapped cars). These
trans however have had their axles cut off near the trans side since they were
imported as scrap in container which are packed chock full of stuff.
If Im lucky with my shopping maybe I can get a Super trans which would
have better ratios??
I hope I can get the rear allignment right by using the scribbled line
method to allign things up. Would be a bit tough I guess since all three
foundations would be replaced too including the front one which would alter the
axial orientation of the gearbox. Fingers crossed.
id make a few decisions and then delve into this work within a week or so.
Need my daily driver back on the road soon.
Best regards and thanks for all your help and suggestions.
Asad
Karachi.
> Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 01:17:55 -0700> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To:
> [email protected]> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Swapping the transmission> >
> I'll preface this by saying that I'm not completely> knowledgable on
> non-US-market transmissions..but I'll> answer your questions the best I can
> based upon what I> do know - or at least I think I know ;)> Generally VW used
> a 4.375:1 R&P on 1200 and 1300cc> -engined cars, and a 4.125:1 on 1500 &
> 1600s. In the> US market, all our `66s were 1300cc and all our> `67-`69s were
> 1500cc. The codeletters preceding the> trans serial number should give a
> clue, both of the> boxes you're dealing with should be "AB" (4.375:1)> IIRC;
> an "AC" would be 4.125:1. There's possibility of> a 6% difference in gearing,
> most of which could be> compensated for with tire-size selection if it cmae >
> down to it.> All pre`67 Type I transmissions had "short" axles,> with short
> brake drum splines to suit the 5x205mm> drums.> In the US market, `67s had
> short-splined long axles> and unique axle tubes with slightly shorter
> bearing> retainers than the `68s had - resulting in a slightly> wider track
> width for the `67 even though the axle> length from inner-end to bearing was
> the same> (apparently they moved the axles inboard slightly in> `68 to
> increase their engagement with the fulcrum> plates)...it's a small
> difference, only worth> mentioning because if you use mismatched tubes and>
> retainers you'll have BIG problems - keep them> together as matched sets.>
> Again in the US market, `67s had the early 5x205mm> bolt pattern and
> short-splined long axles (except for> the Karmann-Ghia); `67 'Ghias and `68
> bugs/'Ghias had> 4x130mm and long-splined long axles. `67/`68 `Ghias> and
> disc-brake-equipped Euro-spec Beetles had the> 4x130mm lug pattern, with
> long-splined long axles. `67> was a unique year for both, since they still
> used the> same skinny-shoe rear brakes with 19.05mm wheel> cylinders (the
> original-equipment 4-lug drums were> weird - long-splined but narrow at the
> friction> surface (by now I'd suppose that most of them have> been replaced
> with "normal" 4-lug drums). In `68, the> rear shoe width was increased and
> the wheel cylinder> bore reduced to 17.46mm. The backing plate offset is>
> different depending upon the wheel cylinder size and> shoe width; and of
> course 4-lug backing plates need> slots in them to access the adjusters since
> you can't> get to them through the drums like on the 5-lug.> None of the
> above should matter much to you if you'll> be swapping in the entire
> transaxle with brakes - but> keep these differences in mind should you decide
> to> start interchanging parts.> > There's a brass bushing in the shift
> housing ("nose> cone" which can be replaced (or you could simply swap>
> nosecones for one with a better bushing) - that alone> would not necessitate
> replacing the entire> transmission.> > Before you loosen the
> axletube-to-springplate bolts,> scribe a line into the springplate around
> the> perimeter of the end casting; as you tighten the bolts> down while
> installing the "new" transmission, align> the end castings carefully with
> these marks and your> rear wheel alignment should be fine (assuming it was>
> good when you started). If you do experience any> strange wandering
> sensations or abnormal tire wear> you'll want to seek the services of an
> alignment shop> that has 4-wheel capability )and at least knows a> little
> about VWs) to get it set just right. Personally> before I made that
> expenditure I'd first replace the> rubber bushings at the outboard ends of
> the torsion> bars (when they're sloppy the rear alignment is too)> to be sure
> I was going to get my money's worth.> > > --- asad ishaque <[EMAIL
> PROTECTED]> wrote:> > > > > Well well.....Should the need arise to say
> goodbye> > to the original transmission on 1300 68 would one> > from a 67
> 1300 bug be suitable?Have a seemingly good> > transmission in store. Bought
> it from a scrap dealer> > who had mercilessly hacked up a cherry 67. If I
> know> > right theres no diffrence between the gear ratios> > etc of the
> two?Forgot to mention one more thing. My> > orig trans' rod which connects
> tothe under rear seat> > rod has a lot of play. Theres a metal bushing kinda>
> > thingy loose on this shaft. Guess thats all the more> > reason to see it
> go.....The 'new' trans comes> > complete with the axles and drum backing> >
> plates.Would all these be compatible or do I change> > the backing
> plates?What are the dos and dont of a> > trans swap??? How t ensure that the
> rear wheel> > allingnment and geometry are not messed up in the> > process?>
> > TIAAsadKarachi, Pakistan.> > > > > >
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