The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 676 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: Clutch interlock
  Peak Oil
  Re: Strut Replacement Tips
  E36 rear subframe M3 vs. 328i
  <E30> OBC question
  rotating tires
  Re: rotating tires
  Re: rotating tires
  <E36> Alarm system
  <E30> ABS being deactivated during braking
  Re: <E30> ABS being deactivated during braking
  I know this has been said, but I need suspension info

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Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 23:42:58 -0400
From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Neil Maller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch interlock
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Yeah, but as we know, the '96 is a bastard...

Later,

Rich

> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Neil Maller
>
>
> on 5/29/05 8:20 PM, KMS- Brett Anderson wrote:
>
> > It was with OBDII, and it's a US law (or lawyer) thing.  Euro cars, post
> > 1996, don't have it.
>
> My OBD-II 96 M3 does not have the clutch interlock.
>
> Neil
> Fort Wayne, IN
> 96 M3      - Bastard child


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 21:48:34 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[uucdigest]" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Cc: bmw digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Peak Oil
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Possibly <OT>, this came across from an alternative transportation and 
bicycle list.
Appropriate for a national holiday honoring those who've died, including 
those giving their lives in the past few years in the name of defending 
democracy, but actually to bring us what fuels the machines this list 
talks about.
Spooky stuff if you haven't seen this presented before.
Barry

>http://www.peakoil.net/
>http://www.lifeaftertheoilcrash.net/
>
>Although, these are rather "doom and gloom" the point that the economic 
>meltdown that will follow huge increases in oil prices is valid.  The 
>question, really is how to soften the blow.  I like the second page:
>
>http://www.lifeaftertheoilcrash.net/SecondPage.html
>
>The things that are not pointed out is that gasoline in the USA right now, 
>although at record highs in dollars, it is near record lows in term of 
>percentage of personal income, because personal income is so high now.   
>Another thing to look at is gas in constant dollars (IE dollars adjusted for 
>inflation).  I remember when gas was $0.25 per gallon in 1972, but in constant 
>dollars that's $1.15 and a few years back (1999) gas was below that point.  
>Now it in the $2 to $2.5 range and so people are upset:
>
>http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/gasprices/FAQ.shtml
>
>That's because it's taking bigger bite out of personal income.  But we are 
>still producing far more with less and less energy:
>
>http://www.eia.doe.gov/emeu/aer/pdf/perspectives.pdf
>
>The problem is we have to get VASTLY more energy efficient to handle the 
>eventual decline of the world oil supply and the ever increasing price of it.  
>In the USA it would have helped if during the 90's the goverment slowly 
>increased the gas tax to put more in line with Europe's gasoline taxes.  Then 
>we sould be more likely to commute using 1 to 1.5 liter turbo diesels  than 3 
>to 8 liter gasoline SUV's!
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 07:05:57 -0400
From: "M540" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Strut Replacement Tips
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Tom,

The Sachs struts I got for my M3 came with directions instructing one to
carefully (it may still be under pressure!) drill a small hole in the bottom
of the strut housing with the strut inverted, flip the strut right side up
over an oil drain pan, and then slowly pump the strut until all of the oil
is expelled.  It only took a few minutes but this seemed to remove most of
the oil from my struts.

You may have better disposal options locally, but this had to do the trick
for me.

Kevin

---------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 7:15:05 -0400

From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Strut Replacement Tips
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

<snip>

That said, I now have 3 used strut cartridges (two from the car and one from
the replacement strut I bought from a yard). Is there an eco-friendly way of
disposing of them? Thanks.

Tom C.
1995 530i
1991 318is



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 08:13:35 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: M Kittock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: E36 rear subframe M3 vs. 328i
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Well, my broken rear shock mounts were unrepairable as the break tore into the 
subframe.    So I dropped off the car today for a new subframe, and just got a 
call from the shop that they mistakenly ordered the M3 subframe, not the std 
one (I have a 328i).   They will order the correct one and install it, but then 
I need to go back another day.   

They suggesting the M3 subframe may fit and would possibly be an upgrade.  
Would this work?  Any suspension mounting differences in the rear that would 
screw up alignments, even if the the subframe fit?   Are the bushings 
different/better?   

While a daily driver today, it may become a seasonal / track car in the future 
so always considering performance enhancements!!

Any quick responses?   In need to reply to the shop this morning!   

Thanks,

Mark
'96 328i Sport, H&R sport springs, Turner sway bars, X brace, etc.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 11:17:20 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: <E30> OBC question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I believe I got all of the iS OBC wiring harness out of the parts car.
Can anyone verify that the controller is the black box behind the
horizontal silver unit? What is this unit with the large hinged connector?
I assume the ECU is the unit on the passenger side.
Also, where is the "chime" unit described in Bentley?


-Kevin


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 13:23:32 -0500
From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: rotating tires
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The outer edges of my left side tires are totally worn b/c of track use; 
  not to the cord, just no tread left.  The outer edges of the right 
side tires are better.

Ideally, I would have the tires remounted to take advantage of the inner 
edges while maintaining the correct rotational direction of the tires. 
However, I'm not sure I want to spend this money when I'll maybe only 
get another season from the tires.

What are the pros and cons of swapping the tires/rims between the sides. 
I know this would not work on wet surfaces, but I'm thinking just for a 
track event.  Is this just plain dumb?

Thoughts appreciated.

The tires are Potenza RE-750s.

Clarence
West Bend, WI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 14:59:53 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Clarence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "UUC Digest" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: rotating tires
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The only con is the cost.  Actually, for dry track use, you could rotate the 
tires periodically and run the tread patterns backwards.

Gary Derian


> The outer edges of my left side tires are totally worn b/c of track use; 
> not to the cord, just no tread left.  The outer edges of the right side 
> tires are better.
>
> Ideally, I would have the tires remounted to take advantage of the inner 
> edges while maintaining the correct rotational direction of the tires. 
> However, I'm not sure I want to spend this money when I'll maybe only get 
> another season from the tires.
>
> What are the pros and cons of swapping the tires/rims between the sides. I 
> know this would not work on wet surfaces, but I'm thinking just for a 
> track event.  Is this just plain dumb?
>
> Thoughts appreciated.
>
> The tires are Potenza RE-750s.
>
> Clarence
> West Bend, WI
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com 


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 14:18:19 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: UUC Digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: rotating tires
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Your post caught my eye b/c I just got a set of RE-750s.  Rotating side 
to side, inside to outside edge is common practice.  Great way to 
prolong the tread life.
Barry

Clarence wrote:

> The outer edges of my left side tires are totally worn b/c of track 
> use;  not to the cord, just no tread left.  The outer edges of the 
> right side tires are better.
> Ideally, I would have the tires remounted to take advantage of the 
> inner edges while maintaining the correct rotational direction of the 
> tires. However, I'm not sure I want to spend this money when I'll 
> maybe only get another season from the tires.
> What are the pros and cons of swapping the tires/rims between the 
> sides. I know this would not work on wet surfaces, but I'm thinking 
> just for a track event.  Is this just plain dumb?
> Thoughts appreciated.
> The tires are Potenza RE-750s.
> Clarence
> West Bend, WI


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 11:24:01 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: <E36> Alarm system
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

RealOEM doesn't show a part number for the alarm unit in the M3. Anyone
know the correct unit number for '99 M3 (3/99 production date).

In trying to figure out the problem with the siren having a constant 12V, I
determined that the siren is controlled only by the unit. It by-passes the
horn relay and is directly controlled by the alarm unit.  There are also no
shorts on the 12V line from the BMW connector to the siren.


-Kevin



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 19:22:40 -0500
From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: <E30> ABS being deactivated during braking
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The car is an '87 325 and I've never had problems w/the ABS. I recently 
installed Carbotech pads all around and right after burnishing them the 
ABS light came on during a hard stop. Turning the ignition off, then on 
got ABS working again. This happened whenever I would nail the brakes.

I've also noticed that it feels like the ABS is working during a normal, 
not even aggressive, street stop. I've been feeling this for several 
weeks now.  However, tonight I needed to hit the brakes hard while doing 
about 30mph.  The car stopped nicely but the ABS light came on.

What could be causing this to happen at such low speeds, or at all?  Is 
there a problem that needs to be addressed before I head for the track?

When I installed the brakes, I removed the front dust shields to provide 
more cooling.  The ABS rings looked good; no missing or worn teeth and 
no gunk filling them up. I also cleaned off the sensor parts.

If this is an indication of a bad ABS sensor, is there a way to test it 
or should I simply replace them?

TIA

Clarence
West Bend, WI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 21:26:00 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Clarence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: <E30> ABS being deactivated during braking
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Use a multimeter with a frequency reading, or an oscilloscope to test the 
sensor outputs.
Gary Derian



> The car is an '87 325 and I've never had problems w/the ABS. I recently 
> installed Carbotech pads all around and right after burnishing them the 
> ABS light came on during a hard stop. Turning the ignition off, then on 
> got ABS working again. This happened whenever I would nail the brakes.
>
> I've also noticed that it feels like the ABS is working during a normal, 
> not even aggressive, street stop. I've been feeling this for several weeks 
> now.  However, tonight I needed to hit the brakes hard while doing about 
> 30mph.  The car stopped nicely but the ABS light came on.
>
> What could be causing this to happen at such low speeds, or at all?  Is 
> there a problem that needs to be addressed before I head for the track?
>
> When I installed the brakes, I removed the front dust shields to provide 
> more cooling.  The ABS rings looked good; no missing or worn teeth and no 
> gunk filling them up. I also cleaned off the sensor parts.
>
> If this is an indication of a bad ABS sensor, is there a way to test it or 
> should I simply replace them?
>
> TIA
>
> Clarence
> West Bend, WI
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 00:14:23 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: I know this has been said, but I need suspension info
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I know this is likely a rehash of stuff that has already been done, but I would 
like to revisit some things about 318ti suspension.

I am needing struts and shocks...leaning towards Koni, but willing to listen....
I am a bit interested in going a bit lower, but not a lot stifffer....
I likely need to replace contol arms, like the all metal Meyle units, but have 
heard  Meyle is junk....
I'll need contol arm bushings, have heard good and bad about urethane and 
rubber....
I'll need rear shock mounts and maybe fresh busings there too....

I have heard so much here as to what is a good setup, and I know it is 
subjective and what one person likes another will loath.

I am interested in brands and OEM options, example:  Contol arm bushings, so 
and so brand was great , but so and so was lousy.  Or, stick with OEM rubber, 
but get this part number because...

I know I am a pain, but I want to do it right, but don't have the money to redo 
it right away because I hate it or it wears out.

Thanks,

David in Richmond, VA

------------------------------

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