The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 788 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Coding Plugs E30 E28 and maybe others Breaking a Steering Lock E-30/E-28 Re: Breaking a Steering Lock E-30/E-28 '74 3.0CS For Sale Re: E30 gauges again E30 oil drain leak fixed. E46 Adjustable Clutch Stop Woes Re: E46 Adjustable Clutch Stop Woes
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 00:30:42 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED], bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com, KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Coding Plugs E30 E28 and maybe others Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Law work is slow, mind continues to work: My cars have coding plugs for both the speedometer cluster and the onboard computers. I know that these plugs indicate how many cylinders the car has, tire size (for the speedo plug) and injector size (for the OBC plug) and maybe more parameters, too. What is inside the plug? Why are they heat sealed shut? I anticipated that they would have either a jumper board or a resistor network inside to signal these parameters. I have a VDO brand instrument cluster sitting around for an E30 325i and pulled the coding plug. It is marked "17" on a tab (in mirror image), BMW17 1385468 12.88 003 on its end 621 12.88 on its side I cut the heat sealed peg and withdrew the printed circuit board from inside. It consists of a single DIP (dual in-line package) electronic device with eight pins, four on each side. The printed circuit card is very simple with each of these eight pins having a single trace to the eight pins that mate with the instrument cluster. The electronic package (DIP) has three lines of letters on it: HML 087 8823 I have attached photographs for those whose computers will allow them to be viewed. I know from my previous electrical engineering life that many of these numbers are date codes, indicating the date of manufacture. DIP was made 23rd week of 1988, assembly the 12th month of 1988. I know from a message I once viewed from Jim C. of chip fame, that the coding plug from the OBC simply selected coded maps from within the OBC and contained no values of its own. This was important to me and the twin cam conversion crowd, because it would allow the OBC to accurately read fuel consumption. Jim C. was not interested in programming the internal maps for an OBC to include one suited for 3.2 liter Euro motors because the work was considerable and the potential market very small. Does anyone have wiring diagrams for the Motometer and VDO instrument clusters? The OBC? Anyone have a chart of what the various numbers of coding plugs correspond to as far as tire size, injectors, or whatever? If I find anything out, is anyone else interested? Thanks, Ed ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 21:16:29 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED], KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Breaking a Steering Lock E-30/E-28 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A buddy found a sport (not M-tech) steering wheel on an E30 in a wrecking yard. I want to get it for him. The steering column is locked. I know that removing the bolt from the center of the hub will not release the wheel because it is also held onto the column by the steering lock. How do I get it released? This is a pull it yourself yard and my limitations are: no damage to the steering wheel, no flame and no power tools. Thanks, Ed ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 21:21:50 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: Breaking a Steering Lock E-30/E-28 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Pull the lock with a slide hammer, then unlock the wheel. Gary Derian >A buddy found a sport (not M-tech) steering wheel on an E30 in a wrecking >yard. I want to get it for him. > > The steering column is locked. I know that removing the bolt from the > center of the hub will not release the wheel because it is also held onto > the column by the steering lock. > > How do I get it released? This is a pull it yourself yard and my > limitations are: no damage to the steering wheel, no flame and no power > tools. > > Thanks, > > Ed > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 08:07:52 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: '74 3.0CS For Sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey Everyone: I know of a '74 Coupe for sale if anyone is interested (absolutely no affiliation)...it's pretty nice I have to admit. 60,000 "original" miles, Granatrot-Metallic with Black leather interior (nice!), a/c, full power everything....The guy hasn't set a price yet (he's a dealer)..but he knew the owner personally, thus that's the only reason he has the car. I would think he would ask bewteen $15,000 and $20,000. I don't know much about Coupes, but this one looks pretty nice (repaint, full trunk tools, original car). The car is in Lancaster, PA. If anyone is interested, please e-mail me for contact information. Happy Motoring, John Weese ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 09:27:09 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: E30 gauges again Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 10 psi at hot idle isn't much of an issue. What matters is the pressure at higher rpm. Running an oil pump consumes power so the lowest pressure that adequately gets oil to the rod bearings is the proper pressure. Gary Derian > Hello. > Today I installed VDO oil temp. and oil pressure on my 87 E30 (325e). > Everything went ok for the most part, except when I took it for a test > drive the oil pressure really never got above 30 psi and after the car > warmed up, at idle the psi was 10. Now when I installed the oil pressure > sender which I got from Bavarian, the sending unit was snug when I > tightened it on to the adapter. I could only screw it on by hand about a > quarter of the way. When i put the wrench on and tightened the sending > unit onto the adapter, it was consistently snug. I stopped about three > quarters of the way so threads are still exposed. My question is, does > the sending unit screw all the way down onto the adapter on these E30's? > Are these threads tappered because they don't look like it, and none of > the threads on the sending unit or adapter are bunged up. I would turn it > some more, but I am afraid that it will strip. I would assume that if the > adapter was not down all the way and it should be, that I would be getting > a false reading from the sending unit. I believe 10 psi is pretty low for > idle. Shouldn't it be around 20? > Thanks again and in advance. > Ryan- > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 21:32:27 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com (bmw list) Subject: E30 oil drain leak fixed. Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I finally fixed my leaking oil drain plug. I had wanted to use a Timesert to fix the oversized hole back to the stock M12x1.5 so I could use the stock plug, washers and whatnot. Much measuring and researching and scheming later, I discover that although my plan would work, I can't manage to get an insert. Along the way I end up figuring out that the reason my oversized M14x1.5 won't seal is that it was probably tapped slightly off square. I gave up, got a nice new M14x1.5 drain plug, attacked it with the lathe and cut a groove for an o-ring. I pulled the old plug, verified that the copper washer under that one had only made contact about half way around, and installed my new plug. It sealed up perfectly. Now my only gripe is that it uses a 16mm wrench. I guess I can live with that. I changed out the oil filter while in there. I had been seeing a longer- than-I-am-comfortable-with oil light in the mornings. Much to my annoyance I discovered that old filter was empty when I pulled it. Closer inspection revealed that it had no check valve. Strange, this maker used to have check valves.... I guess they changed suppliers again. I am just going to stick to the nice factory filters from now on. Also, judging by the oil slick down the A/C compressor mounts the o-ring between the oil filter mount and the block has given up. I have the o-ring, but wonder if I should just swap out the seals, or if there is something else I should do in there at the same time. -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 21:28:36 -0500 From: Rob Norwalk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: E46 Adjustable Clutch Stop Woes Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Went to put my adjustable clutch stop on a 2002 330i that used to be on a 2001 330i. Common issue: when the clutch stop is adjusted where I want it, the car starter won't energize due to the safety switch on the clutch pedal. On the 2001, there were two plunger switches on the clutch pedal arm, one for the starter and one for the cruise disengage, and I just tie wrapped the starter plunder down and all was fine. On the 2002, the assembly has been updated, and I can't find anything to allow me shorten the throw and still get the car to start. Anybody else successfully dealt with this? Thanks, Rob Norwalk 2002 330i 1993 325i - more fun ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 22:01:38 -0700 (PDT) From: "Kazuto Okayasu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: E46 Adjustable Clutch Stop Woes Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Since Rob L. is on this list (duh) I'm sure he'll have a better answer, but I've heard of two: - Buy a old-style plunger switch and wire it in in place of the new magnetic one. - Stick a magnet on the new switch. > Went to put my adjustable clutch stop on a 2002 330i that used to be on > a 2001 330i. Common issue: when the clutch stop is adjusted where I want > it, the car starter won't energize due to the safety switch on the > clutch pedal. > > On the 2001, there were two plunger switches on the clutch pedal arm, > one for the starter and one for the cruise disengage, and I just tie > wrapped the starter plunder down and all was fine. > > On the 2002, the assembly has been updated, and I can't find anything to > allow me shorten the throw and still get the car to start. > > Anybody else successfully dealt with this? > Thanks, > Rob Norwalk > 2002 330i > 1993 325i - more fun > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -- Kazuto Okayasu Administrative Computing Services University of California, Irvine ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **********
