The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 3 : Issue 276 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: <E36> oil in coolant
  <E36> cooling system R&R this past weekend
  Re: <E36> oil in coolant
  Re: <E36> oil in coolant
  E39 540i/6 driveline issues
  Re: E39 540i/6 driveline issues
  Alternator (e36)
  [E30] wiper malfunction

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Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 09:07:28 -0400
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: <E36> oil in coolant
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

on 10/2/06 12:20 AM, "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Did a little R&R today (belts, tensioner pulleys, radiator, fan & clutch).
> The pail into which I drained my old radiator came away with a decent rim of
> oil (been about two years, very few miles, since the last flush).  Is there an
> acceptable level oil in one's coolant

Nope.

> or am I looking at more serious problem...

Sounds like it might be the infamous E36 head gasket.

Neil
Fort Wayne, IN
96 M3      - Bastard child
03 525iT   - Sterling Grey Metallic
05 Mini    - Cooper S with LSD



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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 06:29:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: <E36> cooling system R&R this past weekend
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Last weekend I took my 95 M3 to a local autocross
because it was raining and I couldn't drive my other
car.  I knew ahead of time I was on borrowed time
because with it because the car still had the stock
cooling system, but I was putting off R&R the cooling
system because I wasn't sure how long it would take me
to do it.  Sure enough, on my second run the
temperature started rising and my day was over.

I had it towed home and this past weekend I replaced
the water pump, radiator, hoses, belts, clamps,
thermostat (and housing), fan clutch, etc.  I must
admit, it was a surprisingly easy job and only took
about 4 hours.  In my experience, projects of this
nature tend to run into a least one snag-fu (broken
bolt, striped head, part that refuses to come out
despite repeated blows with a BFH, etc.), but
everything came off and went right back in as planned.
 

-Paul
95 M3 (with new cooling system)

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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 08:41:22 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: <E36> oil in coolant
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


It is indicative of a probable blown head gasket or cracked head.  I'm not
sure that oil in the coolant would necessarily mean you'd also have coolant
in the oil.  Do compression and leakdown tests to get a better idea of the
problem.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2006 09:26:41 -0500
>From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
>Subject: Re: <E36> oil in coolant
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>>Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 22:34:19 -0500 (CDT)
>>From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
>>Subject: <E36> oil in coolant
>>Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Did a little R&R today (belts, tensioner pulleys, radiator, fan &
clutch).
>> The pail into which I drained my old radiator came away with a decent
rim of
>> oil (been about two years, very few miles, since the last flush).  Is
there an
>> acceptable level oil in one's coolant, or am I looking at more serious
>> problem...
>
>Are you sure that the oil wasn't in the bucket to begin with?
>
>To answer your question though, no there is no acceptable level of oil
>in coolant;  there should be none.  I would send a sample of oil for
>analysis as a starting point, they can test for ethylene glycol in the
>oil which will tell you if you have a problem.  I have used Blackstone
>Labs http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ in the past.
>
>--
>Jamie Howton



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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 10:57:18 -0500
From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: <E36> oil in coolant
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> It is indicative of a probable blown head gasket or cracked head.  I'm not
> sure that oil in the coolant would necessarily mean you'd also have coolant
> in the oil.  Do compression and leakdown tests to get a better idea of the
> problem.

Scott, wouldn't the coolant tend to migrate into the lubrication
system because the cooling system is pressurised?  I realise that the
lubrication system is pressurised too but only when the engine is
running.  Just a WAG.

-- 
Jamie Howton
2006 M Roadster
2000 M5
1995 M3
Hampshire, IL

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 09:23:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ivan Demkovitch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: E39 540i/6 driveline issues
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

List,
 
Car: 97' 540i/6 with 165k miles.
 
Lately I have few annoying problems with driveline..
 
1. Can't shift smoothly. Car jerks on every shift. Clutch was replaced by PO at 
120k and flywheel resurfaced.
I removed CDV and it somewhat improved situation, but still...
 
2. When taking off from stand still I can hear clicks under the car. One or 2 
of them. This is very clear metallic sound almost like pieces of sheetmetal 
touch each other
 
3. Vibration at 75mph. Not on a steering wheel. I had suspension completely 
redone before and this feels like coming from a bottom - completely different 
from previous wheel shimmys
 
Do I look at dual mass flywheel and driveshaft mount? What else can be a 
problem?
 
Thanks,
Ivan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 12:50:46 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: E39 540i/6 driveline issues
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Not sure what prior owner did, but officially dual-mass flywheels are 
resurfaceable.  Not sure if this is your problem, but worth keeping in mind.

Do you have a flex-disk/quibo in that car?  Might also want to look at engine 
and transmission mounts.

David Ellsworth
Richmond, VA

-----Original Message-----
>From: Ivan Demkovitch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Oct 2, 2006 12:23 PM
>To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
>Subject: [UUC]  E39 540i/6 driveline issues
>
>List,
> 
>Car: 97' 540i/6 with 165k miles.
> 
>Lately I have few annoying problems with driveline..
> 
>1. Can't shift smoothly. Car jerks on every shift. Clutch was replaced by PO 
>at 120k and flywheel resurfaced.
>I removed CDV and it somewhat improved situation, but still...
> 
>2. When taking off from stand still I can hear clicks under the car. One or 2 
>of them. This is very clear metallic sound almost like pieces of sheetmetal 
>touch each other
> 
>3. Vibration at 75mph. Not on a steering wheel. I had suspension completely 
>redone before and this feels like coming from a bottom - completely different 
>from previous wheel shimmys
> 
>Do I look at dual mass flywheel and driveshaft mount? What else can be a 
>problem?
> 
>Thanks,
>Ivan
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2006 12:16:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Alternator (e36)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Greetings all!

I was wondering if anyone out there had an alternator
for a 95 325i they needed to get rid of?  Mine is
squealing like a stuck pig and I really need to change
it out.  Thanks!

Manuel Paredes
95 325i 245k--> WOW!
LA BMWCCA


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 20:27:56 +0000
From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: [E30] wiper malfunction
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hey Gruppe:

Couldn't find anything in the archives about diagnosis of this. So here it 
is.

Car: 1987 325(e) 213xxx miles

About a month ago after driving down a dusty Forest Service road, the wiper 
did not work. (I attempted to wash the windshield.) I had apparently left 
them on, and sometime within the next 90 miles they started working again. I 
attributed it to bumpy road and dust. (Wishful thinking.)

Last night after my car had been parked under a sappy conifer, and I used 
the wipers to clean the windshield, they slowed down. I was hoping that it 
was increased friction from the sap, but I am an optimist.

I'm thinking motor. Anyone else agree/disagree? I would like to have 
functional wipers before it starts raining everyday here in Seattle.

Thanks

Gilbert



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