[Elecraft] K3: latest Prolific drivers for the KUSB

2010-04-08 Thread Chris M0PSK
Dick:

In a recent posting you provided a link for the latest Prolific PL-2303
USB-to-serial drivers for the KUSB cable. Is there anything to be gained by
installing the the most recent version, rather than sticking with the
version provided by the link on the Elecraft website?

73 Chris, M0PSK
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[Elecraft] K1 test supplies

2010-04-08 Thread ki4bbl
So I get my K1 today, and would like to know what, if any test gear I  
need.  I have a multimeter, and I am putting together the mini modules  
dummy load and signal generator.  I would like to get the spectrograph  
software for my touch, but I guess that is where I need suggestions.   
Thanks and happy building.

Greg Doughty
KI4BBL
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[Elecraft] Need Toroids!

2010-04-08 Thread Bill Maddock
This is not elecraft related!
I am needing 10 ea of the
#31 mix 2.4 in diameter to
Make baluns for my low band
Slopers! - I need to eliminate
The high RFI alarm on my K3 s!
Please respond off the list!
Thanks and 73,
Bill N4ZI K3 #1059/2914


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: latest Prolific drivers for the KUSB

2010-04-08 Thread Julian, G4ILO

My abiding principle with anything to do with computers is, if it ain't broke
don't fix it!


Chris Gibson-3 wrote:
 
 Dick:
 
 In a recent posting you provided a link for the latest Prolific PL-2303
 USB-to-serial drivers for the KUSB cable. Is there anything to be gained
 by
 installing the the most recent version, rather than sticking with the
 version provided by the link on the Elecraft website?
 
 


-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: latest Prolific drivers for the KUSB

2010-04-08 Thread Dick Dievendorff
I think some users were having trouble with applications like N1MM.  There's
was a Prolific driver issue with the MSCOMMCTL32.ocx (I think that's right)
that VB apps use that was fixed in this most recent version.

 

As a matter of general practice I have to try/use the most recent drivers
and learn what's up with them because usually our customers can install the
most recent but rarely are they able to get an n-1 version from the vendor.

 

I'll ask Eric/Brian to update the Elecraft web site versions.

 

73 de Dick, K6KR



 

From: Chris M0PSK [mailto:chrism0...@googlemail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 2:22 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector; Dick Dievendorff
Subject: K3: latest Prolific drivers for the KUSB

 

Dick:

In a recent posting you provided a link for the latest Prolific PL-2303
USB-to-serial drivers for the KUSB cable. Is there anything to be gained by
installing the the most recent version, rather than sticking with the
version provided by the link on the Elecraft website?

73 Chris, M0PSK

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Re: [Elecraft] Testing anti-static mats - found one that works

2010-04-08 Thread Matt Palmer
How are you measuring resistance?


Matt
W8ESE




On Wed, Apr 7, 2010 at 6:53 PM, Alan Bloom a...@elecraft.com wrote:
 It is important to use an anti-static mat to prevent damage to
 electronic devices when working on solid-state equipment.  Since
 Elecraft is heavily kit-oriented this is a topic of interest for
 Elecrafters.

 Quite some time ago I did some testing on the Radio Shack portable
 anti-static mat and found that its resistance was way too high to do a
 proper job of bleeding off static charges.  I then bought another
 low-cost mat from Jameco and it also measured way too high.  I began to
 doubt my testing methodology (described in a previous message, copied
 below).

 So now I have bought a third mat.  This one is more expensive, but
 unlike the cheaper mats it has an actual data sheet that specifies that
 it meets ANSI specs for anti-static performance.  I figured if it also
 measured bad then my testing must be in error.

 But it didn't.  Here are the results:

 Radio Shack P/N 276-2370 ($22.99) - 26 G ohms (26,000 M ohms)
 Jameco P/N 10584 ($16.45) - 44 G ohms (44,000 M ohms)
 Digi-Key P/N 16-1121-ND, (Desco 66164) ($38.18) - 41 M ohms

 The Desco mat's resistance is about 1000x lower than the cheaper ones!

 This mat is quite large, (2 x 3 feet, 61 x 91.4 cm) so if you buy one
 you may need to cut it down to fit on your workbench.  It comes with a
 common point ground kit (that you have to install on the mat yourself)
 that provides a long wire with solder lug to connect to ground and a
 two-socket connector for connecting one or two wrist straps.  The wrist
 strap and cord have to be purchased separately.  It looks like Digi-Key
 P/N SCP172-ND for $8.95 should work.

 So the total cost is about $47.  But the cheap mats are no bargain if
 they don't work.

 I tried cleaning the surface of the mats with some wipes that are
 especially intended for cleaning anti-static mats (Digi-Key MTT20-ND)
 and they did help.  The Radio Shack mat went from 26 to 6 Gohms and the
 Jameco went from 44 to about 12 Gohms.  But those numbers are still way
 too high.  The Desco mat's resistance also went down, from 41 to 20
 Mohms.

 The Desco mat came with a small spray bottle of Rezstore, their own
 brand of mat cleaner.

 By the way, the back side of the Desco mat is some kind of
 highly-conductive black rubber, apparently to keep the entire mat
 surface at equal potential.  They warn that you should always use it
 blue side up because the resistance of the back side is too low.  Sure
 enough, it was low enough to measure with my digital multimeter - about
 80 kohms.

 So my recommendation is to buy a mat such as the Desco model that has a
 data sheet that specifies that it meets ANSI/ESD S4.1 or ANSI/ESD
 S20.20.  If you already have the Radio Shack mat, then either replace it
 or at least clean it with a cleaner approved for ESD mats.  (You're not
 supposed to use soap or detergent because it might harm the anti-static
 properties.)  Gary KI4GGX recommends a product made by Techspray:
 http://www.all-spec.com/products/1733-QT.html

 Whatever you use, it is important to keep the mat clean.

 A word about my test procedure.  Accuracy is not very good because I am
 trying to read the peak amplitude of a brief needle flicker.  If I had
 an analog meter with a high-impedance input that would work better
 because the reading wouldn't change so fast.  Also my sauce pans no
 doubt do not give the same answer as the ANSI-specified test probes.  So
 overall, I doubt my measurement accuracy is better than +/- 50% or so.
 But for the purposes of this test that's good enough.

 In the test procedure below I had to substitute a 1.0 uF capacitor when
 measuring the Tesco mat in order to get a long-enough time constant to
 measure accurately.  (Also, it's actually a Triplett meter, not a
 Simpson.)

 Alan N1AL



 On Wed, 2008-02-27 at 09:51 -0800, Alan Bloom wrote:
 Well, I've convinced myself that the Radio Shack portable ESD mat, P/N
 276-2370 doesn't work properly.

 The ESD Association http://www.esda.org has promulgated an
 industry-standard test for ESD mats, ESD S4.1.  It is the standard
 specified by most commercial mats.  I decided not to spring for the $70
 to buy a copy of the standard, but other information I found on the web
 describes the test in general terms.  It uses two circular electrodes,
 each weighted with 5 pounds, spaced 10 inches apart on the mat.  The
 Point to Point Resistance is specified to be:

 At 40-60% RH: 10^6 - 10^7 ohms
 At 20-40% RH: 10^7 - 10^8 ohms
 At 10-20% RH: 10^8 - 10^9 ohms

 I don't know what the RH here in Santa Rosa was yesterday when I did the
 test, but I don't think it was very low since it has been raining
 recently and the ground is still damp.  For sure the resistance
 shouldn't be below 10^9 ohms (1 gigohm) and probably more like 10^8 or
 10^7 (100 or 10 megohms).

 I measured 2.5 x 10^10 ohms (25 gigohms), which puts the Radio Shack mat
 way out of spec.

 Test 

Re: [Elecraft] Using Buddi Pole Deluxe Antenna with K3

2010-04-08 Thread lstavenhagen

Don't mean to jump in, but I'm actually kicking the idea of a Buddipole
around for portable operation myself. I used to think it was expensive until
I recently tried to homebrew an equivalent out of parts from the hardware
store. To my surprise, by the time I got one side built with a homebrew
coil, supports, etc., I was getting distressingly close to having spent
somewhere in the neighborhood of the cost of a Buddistick and I _still_ had
this hulking piece of garbage that actually weighed a fair bit and couldn't
be broken down, etc. If you already have stuff on hand it can be
cost-effective, but if you're like me and having to go from scratch you'll
be shocked and amazed at how even something simple adds up.

The other solution - a 100' piece of wire - is cheap from the hardware store
(about 15 bucks) and works surprisingly well with a good tuner and
counterpoise, but requires a tree or other support to get it into the air.
And then you have the inevitable snarl of wire for the main piece and the
counterpoise unless you figure out a good method of coiling/uncoiling the
wire (more $$$). 
My problem too is some of the places I'd like to go QRV are on tops of hills
and mountains where good trees aren't available so my wire ant. wouldn't
work there, unless I had my own support somehow.

The only drawback I can see with the buddipole is that, because it's
intended as a resonant system, you'd need to retune it by moving the clips
when you change bands. With the wire, the tuner just takes care of that. 

But to be honest, I havn't been able to come up with a significantly
better/cheaper solution myself for portable that does the same thing. I can
go cheaper, but it's bulkier and heavier. Otherwise, it costs about as much
hi hi.

So I'm considering one too and may even use it in my apt. when I'm not /p.
My indoor wire solution works moderately well for receive, but is not great
for transmit

73,
LS
W5QD
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http://n2.nabble.com/Using-Buddi-Pole-Deluxe-Antenna-with-K3-tp4867678p4870948.html
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[Elecraft] How are you measuring resistance? -- was Testing anti-static mats ...

2010-04-08 Thread Gary Hvizdak
Thu Apr 8 08:54:52 EDT 2010 Matt Palmer (W8ESE) wrote ...

How are you measuring resistance?

--

Matt,

Alan described his test setup in an earlier post which you can find at
http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2008-February/083794.html in
the Reflector archives.

73,
Gary  KI4GGX

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 test supplies

2010-04-08 Thread Don Wilhelm
Greg,

Other than your DMM and dummy load, you will not need anything else if 
all goes well.
A comment on your multimeter -- if that is an older analog type, you 
should replace it with a DMM (digital type) because the analog type uses 
a high voltage for measuring resistance and will turn active devices 
into conduction and give you erroneous readings.  Even an inexpensive 
DMM like the type that go on sale for less than $10 at places like 
Harbor Freight will work just fine.

The signal generator (I assume the XG2) can be used for making MDS 
measurements and setting the S-meter response.
If you run into trouble, you may need a stronger signal source on each 
of the K1 bands covered - another transmitter operating into a dummy 
load will do for that task.  If you have trouble with the transmit 
section, you will need an RF Probe to do Transmit Signal Tracing.

73,
Don W3FPR

ki4...@cox.net wrote:
 So I get my K1 today, and would like to know what, if any test gear I  
 need.  I have a multimeter, and I am putting together the mini modules  
 dummy load and signal generator.  I would like to get the spectrograph  
 software for my touch, but I guess that is where I need suggestions.   
 Thanks and happy building.

 Greg Doughty
 KI4BBL
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Re: [Elecraft] Using Buddi Pole Deluxe Antenna with K3

2010-04-08 Thread Jay Sissom
The K3 works fine with the Buddipole.  I've used mine a few times.
I've also used the Buddipole with a KX1, K1, K2 and FT817.  It works
fine as long as you realize it isn't going to be be as good as a full
size wire dipole.  Here is how I do it:

1) Setup the antenna for the band you want to operate.  I usually set
it up as a horizontal dipole but you can set it up as a sloping dipole
or vertical.  I'm not sure which is best.  When the antenna is setup,
I use the blue card that comes with the antenna to make the correct
settings for the band.  If it says to extend the red side to 5 - 5.5
sections, I extend it right in the middle.

2) I then put the radio to a very low power (a few watts) and put it
in CW mode with the antenna tuner off and do a short transmission
looking at the SWR meter to check the SWR.  If it is less than 3:1, I
go with it and use the antenna tuner to top it off.  If it is more
than 3:1, I go to the next step

3) to determine if you need to lengthen or shorten the antenna, tune
lower in the band and try the transmission test again.  If the SWR is
less than it was before, the antenna needs to be shortened.  If the
SWR is higher than it was before, the antenna needs to be lengthened.
You can also tune higher in the band and check there.  I make a small
adjustment to the whips (1 inch or so), then go back to the original
frequency and try again.

I use CW 95% of the time and I've found that once I get it close in
the CW section of the band I have no problems using it on that band
for any CW frequency.  The antenna tuner will help with this.

I hope this helps.  I started using the buddipole last summer and have
only used it a few times this year so I hope to get more experience
with it this summer.  I bought an antenna analyzer that helps with the
tuning of the antenna.  If you get one of those, you can use it to
determine the setting you need without transmitting.  It is not
necessary, but is helpful.

73
Jay


On Wed, Apr 7, 2010 at 5:26 PM, KC2VNI st...@smarrano.com wrote:

 I have just gotten my radio set up thanks to W3DVX. It has both the internal
 ATU and 100W power amp options in it. I was wondering if any of you have
 some tips on how to operate a Buddi Pole Deluxe antenna system? If you have
 any suggestions or some past experience, please advise.

 Here are some of my questions:

 1) Do you set the frequency 1st on the front of the radio AND then activate
 the tuner?

 2) The antenna is rated for 250W. I would assume that this means it's okay
 to use the full 100W from the amp but I am concerned about the effects of
 SWR.

 3) I was wondering if I'll get better results using the antenna as a
 vertical or do I want to try it on horizontal dipole (I believe you get
 about 16 feet of height above grade).

 4) I was wondering if any one has had experience with the Buddipole on SSB?

 Please advise with whatever opinions you may have. Please know that I
 recognize I'm probably not going to get more than say NVIS type of
 propagation with this type of set-up (since I'm in a relatively flat area
 with no hills or the like).

 73

 KC2VNI-Steve

 --
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Re: [Elecraft] Using Buddi Pole Deluxe Antenna with K3

2010-04-08 Thread Jay Sissom
I've found that the Buddipole is very flexible and you can configure
it in many ways.  I think this is what causes some people to not like
the antenna.  There isn't just one way to do it.  I like it because
you can play with it and try out different configurations to see what
works for you.  I have used the Buddipole with wire.  I put the
Buddipole together without the whips and instead of the whips I used a
wire to make a longer inverted-V.  It worked fine on 40m and 20m
without changing the taps (using the ATU of course).  I didn't try it
on other bands.   If you like playing with antennas outside, it is a
good kit.

At home, I have a 20m - 6m vertical but nothing for 40m.  When it is
nice outside, I setup the Buddipole for 40m on my deck and operate
from inside where it is either warmer or colder (depending on the
season) and without the bugs.

73
Jay

On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 9:15 AM, lstavenhagen lstavenha...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Don't mean to jump in, but I'm actually kicking the idea of a Buddipole
 around for portable operation myself. I used to think it was expensive until
 I recently tried to homebrew an equivalent out of parts from the hardware
 store. To my surprise, by the time I got one side built with a homebrew
 coil, supports, etc., I was getting distressingly close to having spent
 somewhere in the neighborhood of the cost of a Buddistick and I _still_ had
 this hulking piece of garbage that actually weighed a fair bit and couldn't
 be broken down, etc. If you already have stuff on hand it can be
 cost-effective, but if you're like me and having to go from scratch you'll
 be shocked and amazed at how even something simple adds up.

 The other solution - a 100' piece of wire - is cheap from the hardware store
 (about 15 bucks) and works surprisingly well with a good tuner and
 counterpoise, but requires a tree or other support to get it into the air.
 And then you have the inevitable snarl of wire for the main piece and the
 counterpoise unless you figure out a good method of coiling/uncoiling the
 wire (more $$$).
 My problem too is some of the places I'd like to go QRV are on tops of hills
 and mountains where good trees aren't available so my wire ant. wouldn't
 work there, unless I had my own support somehow.

 The only drawback I can see with the buddipole is that, because it's
 intended as a resonant system, you'd need to retune it by moving the clips
 when you change bands. With the wire, the tuner just takes care of that.

 But to be honest, I havn't been able to come up with a significantly
 better/cheaper solution myself for portable that does the same thing. I can
 go cheaper, but it's bulkier and heavier. Otherwise, it costs about as much
 hi hi.

 So I'm considering one too and may even use it in my apt. when I'm not /p.
 My indoor wire solution works moderately well for receive, but is not great
 for transmit

 73,
 LS
 W5QD
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/Using-Buddi-Pole-Deluxe-Antenna-with-K3-tp4867678p4870948.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: latest Prolific drivers for the KUSB

2010-04-08 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Windows 7 64 bit at my place was an issue, replete with BSOD if things
not started up in correct order.  New drivers fixed it.  YMMV   No
knowing how many other things were actually involved.  Many use the
old drivers without problem on their existing boxes.  I started over
brand new OS, high end quad core, lots of fast memory, knowing the
price I would pay.  : )

73, Guy.

On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 8:11 AM, Dick Dievendorff die...@comcast.net wrote:
 I think some users were having trouble with applications like N1MM.  There's
 was a Prolific driver issue with the MSCOMMCTL32.ocx (I think that's right)
 that VB apps use that was fixed in this most recent version.



 As a matter of general practice I have to try/use the most recent drivers
 and learn what's up with them because usually our customers can install the
 most recent but rarely are they able to get an n-1 version from the vendor.



 I'll ask Eric/Brian to update the Elecraft web site versions.



 73 de Dick, K6KR





 From: Chris M0PSK [mailto:chrism0...@googlemail.com]
 Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 2:22 AM
 To: Elecraft Reflector; Dick Dievendorff
 Subject: K3: latest Prolific drivers for the KUSB



 Dick:

 In a recent posting you provided a link for the latest Prolific PL-2303
 USB-to-serial drivers for the KUSB cable. Is there anything to be gained by
 installing the the most recent version, rather than sticking with the
 version provided by the link on the Elecraft website?

 73 Chris, M0PSK

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Re: [Elecraft] Using Buddi Pole Deluxe Antenna with K3

2010-04-08 Thread Brian Alsop
I have a basic problem with shortened low antennas.  They are a handicap.

I remember one article in CQ where one fellow went to the beach with a 
0.25 W QRP rig and a budipole.  He made no QSO's but had fun anyhow.

So it may all depend upon your expectations.  If you want to try and 
make a few QSO's with say 100W and such and antenna, then you probably 
won't be disappointed.  However, if you into DXing and even QRP 
contesting, don't bother.

On the other hand, if you're going someplace for portable operation, why 
not select a place where you can put up a high near full sized antenna?

73 de Brian/K3KO

Jay Sissom wrote:
 I've found that the Buddipole is very flexible and you can configure
 it in many ways.  I think this is what causes some people to not like
 the antenna.  There isn't just one way to do it.  I like it because
 you can play with it and try out different configurations to see what
 works for you.  I have used the Buddipole with wire.  I put the
 Buddipole together without the whips and instead of the whips I used a
 wire to make a longer inverted-V.  It worked fine on 40m and 20m
 without changing the taps (using the ATU of course).  I didn't try it
 on other bands.   If you like playing with antennas outside, it is a
 good kit.
 
 At home, I have a 20m - 6m vertical but nothing for 40m.  When it is
 nice outside, I setup the Buddipole for 40m on my deck and operate
 from inside where it is either warmer or colder (depending on the
 season) and without the bugs.
 
 73
 Jay
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: latest Prolific drivers for the KUSB

2010-04-08 Thread lstavenhagen

Generally, no, unless you're having a specific problem with it it's best to
leave it be. 

The hazard of upgrading is breaking a previously working configuration -
i.e. the old bugs get replaced with new bugs. This is particularly true of
Windows because it's such a nightmarish and expensive platform to develop
for - both the API/ABIs and the dev tools are extensively changed from
version to version in both gross and subtle ways. It takes a very adept
developer to keep track of the changes - he or she has to be rich too
because of the cost of endlessly having to buy the dev tools over and over
again. .NET levels this a little bit, but even there you find wholesale
changes that can really take some digging to find and can really make life
tough on you (i.e. the way asynchronous handling of the standard streams for
Process objects was pretty much redone in .NET 2.0 and on and on).

For good designs like MacOS X, this isn't as big of a deal, but even there
you want to exercise some conservatism (i.e. the wierdness with the recent
64 bit prolific driver release).

My mottos are:
If it ain't broke, that don't necessarily mean it ain't broke.
But if it truly ain't broke, don't fix it.

73,
LS
W5QD
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Re: [Elecraft] Using Buddi Pole Deluxe Antenna with K3

2010-04-08 Thread Jim Brown
On Thu, 08 Apr 2010 14:17:46 +, Brian Alsop wrote:

I have a basic problem with shortened low antennas.  They are a handicap.

YES! VERY poor efficiency and bandwidth. There are many simple alternatives. 
a #20 wire thrown over a tree is one. Another is a really neat telescoping 
fiberglass pole developed by Walter, DK9SQ, and sold online for a very 
reasoanble sum. It extends to 10M, but collapses to a bit over 1M, and comes 
with a nice carrying tube. Tie that #20 wire to the pole, figure out a way to 
prop it up (or even halfway up), lay a few radials out, and you've got a GOOD 
antenna. By playing with wire lengths, you can easily load it and make it 
work well on 40, 30, 20, and 17. I've also seen stakes designed to hold it 
vertical. Google on his call to find it. 

Several years ago, I used exactly that rig for the QRP night of the Chicago 
club I was a member of, and had a lot of fun with my K2 and a battery. Made a 
half dozen nice Qs on 30M in under an hour, even busting a pileup for a 
Caribbean expedition!  

73,

Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] Using Buddi Pole Deluxe Antenna with K3

2010-04-08 Thread Tom W8JI
Antennas are a magical gray world of what makes everyone 
happy, but they all work a certain scientific way that we 
cannot change.

The Buddipole, being a shortened and offset feed antenna, 
is going to have a whole lot of feedline radiation and 
common mode back to the rig. It would take extraordinary 
efforts to stop the common mode. This does not mean we would 
always NOTICE the common mode, it just means it would be 
there. Many times this common mode is how very small 
antennas get most of their radiation.

Some people will love them, some will hate them, mostly 
because of the things we don't even realize are affecting 
the performance.

The proper way to tune one is to tune the antenna for lowest 
SWR with the tuner off at the desired frequency, and then 
use the tuner for touch-up only.


73 Tom 

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Re: [Elecraft] Using Buddi Pole Deluxe Antenna with K3

2010-04-08 Thread Jay Sissom
I could take your first sentence and say:

I have a basic problem with QRP power.  It is a handicap.

You probably missed in my first message where I said that we know that
a Buddipole won't compete with a full size dipole.

I'm sorry you don't approve of how we enjoy our hobby.

73
Jay
W9IUF

On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 10:17 AM, Brian Alsop als...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 I have a basic problem with shortened low antennas.  They are a handicap.

 I remember one article in CQ where one fellow went to the beach with a
 0.25 W QRP rig and a budipole.  He made no QSO's but had fun anyhow.

 So it may all depend upon your expectations.  If you want to try and
 make a few QSO's with say 100W and such and antenna, then you probably
 won't be disappointed.  However, if you into DXing and even QRP
 contesting, don't bother.

 On the other hand, if you're going someplace for portable operation, why
 not select a place where you can put up a high near full sized antenna?

 73 de Brian/K3KO

 Jay Sissom wrote:
 I've found that the Buddipole is very flexible and you can configure
 it in many ways.  I think this is what causes some people to not like
 the antenna.  There isn't just one way to do it.  I like it because
 you can play with it and try out different configurations to see what
 works for you.  I have used the Buddipole with wire.  I put the
 Buddipole together without the whips and instead of the whips I used a
 wire to make a longer inverted-V.  It worked fine on 40m and 20m
 without changing the taps (using the ATU of course).  I didn't try it
 on other bands.   If you like playing with antennas outside, it is a
 good kit.

 At home, I have a 20m - 6m vertical but nothing for 40m.  When it is
 nice outside, I setup the Buddipole for 40m on my deck and operate
 from inside where it is either warmer or colder (depending on the
 season) and without the bugs.

 73
 Jay
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Re: [Elecraft] Using Buddi Pole Deluxe Antenna with K3

2010-04-08 Thread Bob McGraw - K4TAX
I agree with Tom on this.  My simple solution is a length of wire, center 
fed with light weight TV 300 ohm line which is terminated into a 1:1 current 
balun at the radio.  Put it up in any fashion, any height and enjoy 
everything from 160M - 6M as long as the internal tuner will handle the 
task.  It will work very efficiently on any frequency where the length is 
1/2 wave or more and with some compromise on those frequencies where it is 
less than 1/2 wavelength.  Overall the costs is less than $50 and can be 
packed and transported very easily.  From experience it makes no difference 
if it is 5 ft above ground tied between bushes or at 50 ft.  The performance 
and enjoyment is the same.  And it is certainly much less problematic than 
those that use coils and mechanical parts and lighter weight too.

73
Bob, K4TAX


- Original Message - 
From: Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Using Buddi Pole Deluxe Antenna with K3


 Antennas are a magical gray world of what makes everyone
 happy, but they all work a certain scientific way that we
 cannot change.

 The Buddipole, being a shortened and offset feed antenna,
 is going to have a whole lot of feedline radiation and
 common mode back to the rig. It would take extraordinary
 efforts to stop the common mode. This does not mean we would
 always NOTICE the common mode, it just means it would be
 there. Many times this common mode is how very small
 antennas get most of their radiation.

 Some people will love them, some will hate them, mostly
 because of the things we don't even realize are affecting
 the performance.

 The proper way to tune one is to tune the antenna for lowest
 SWR with the tuner off at the desired frequency, and then
 use the tuner for touch-up only.


 73 Tom

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[Elecraft] WANTED - KXPD1 paddle

2010-04-08 Thread Ken - WA4SQM

I am looking for a KXPD1 paddle for my KX1.   If you have a KXPD1 that you'd
be willing to sell, please contact me off list with your price.

Tnx...

Ken WA4SQM

kredwa...@gmail.com


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[Elecraft] QRP, Portable, and Compromise Antennas

2010-04-08 Thread Phil Hystad
I have already experimented with this particular setup and sometime later this 
year I will try it out for real.  On both the Washington coast and the Oregon 
coast there are beaches that allow cars out on the sand.  This is easy to drive 
as the beaches are flat, firm, damp sand where the water is still 250 feet away 
on average.

I have driven my pickup out there many times at Ocean Shores, Washington and 
Cannon Beach, Oregon.  My next trip to Cannon Beach this summer (during the 
Seapac hamfest) I will set up a 1/2 wave 20 meter dipole.  I have a 35 foot 
long fiberglass telescoping pole that I stick in one of the stake holes of my 
pickup truck.  Then, with the center of my dipole attached to the top and coax 
already connected I extend the pole up to its full 35 foot length which puts 
the top of the dipole at 40 feet.  This can be done only when there is no wind 
as the top is not very stable as I have already discovered.  The ends of the 
dipole, sort of a inverted-V dipole, are connected to 6 foot long poles I pound 
into the sand a little bit, just enough for a stable anchor.  They are farther 
out then the length of each dipole leg since I will have dacron line for about 
10 feet which keeps the dipole ends off the ground a bit.

I have experimented with this configuration here on my property but have not 
yet tried it out for real on the coast but I think this will work very nicely 
for QRP activity (although, I will also be able to operate 100 watts with my K3 
too).

73, phil, K7PEH


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[Elecraft] (no subject)

2010-04-08 Thread W0WOI
FS K3 version of LP-PAN with E-MU0202.
 
Reply off list _k0...@aol.com_ (mailto:k0...@aol.com) 
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[Elecraft] Prolific drivers and Mac OS

2010-04-08 Thread Randy Cook
I am using an iMac 2.66ghz with 10.6.3 (64 bit Snow Leopard w/latest updates) 
and MacLoggerDX with my K3. I have a cheap USB to serial cable purchased on 
eBay for US6.50, and free shipping.  It utilizes the Prolific chipset. Seller 
was Sureelectronics.

I recently purchased a new one to replace a version that was 2 years old.   I 
had a thumbscrew break off during a shack reorganization (my fault). They are 
not always iinline, and care is need when connecting to the K3. I would not 
recommend these if you are removing the cable often.

From a software point of view, there have been no problems. I run the 
communications at 19.2kb. 

YMMV

Randy K6CRC
k6...@arrl.net
K3 s/n 2051

On Apr 8, 2010, at 9:00 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

 After having numerous issues with drivers and listening to suggestions on
 website, I found two of my cheapies failed!  They weren't that old but the
 chips headed to the poles.  I stepped up to the plate and bought new brand
 name chips, the Elecraft with with the prolific chip, and a Keyspan which is
 to me the best device out there.  
 
 Good luck.
 
 Bill
 K9YEQ
 K2 and KX1 field tester, K3 and modules
 -Original Message-
 
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 64 bit prolific driver for Snow Leopard
 
 
 Interesting doesn't load at all for me on my Macbook Pro (10.6.3) in
 either 32 or 64 bit mode. The original driver off Sourceforge (0.3.1, 10.4
 Universal) works fine tho. 
 Could be my adapter, a Bill-n-Ted's Excellent USB-RS232 from BestBuy. But
 I'd think it'd be the same chipset and should work... 
 
 Not a big deal to me since I only care if it works at all hi hi. But if
 anyone else notices this or if there's some other trick needed to get this
 one to work, post it here and I'll have a go.

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Re: [Elecraft] QRP, Portable, and Compromise Antennas

2010-04-08 Thread Bill W4ZV


Phil Hystad-3 wrote:
 
 I have a 35 foot long fiberglass telescoping pole that I stick in one of
 the stake holes of my pickup truck.  Then, with the center of my dipole
 attached to the top and coax already connected I extend the pole up to its
 full 35 foot length which puts the top of the dipole at 40 feet.  This can
 be done only when there is no wind as the top is not very stable as I have
 already discovered.  The ends of the dipole, sort of a inverted-V dipole,
 are connected to 6 foot long poles I pound into the sand a little bit,
 just enough for a stable anchor.
 

IMO you'd do far better configuring your antenna as a vertical dipole over
salt water.

http://pages.prodigy.net/k2kw/dxcomp.htm
http://www.elecraft.com/DXpeditions/QRP_is.pdf
http://pages.prodigy.net/k2kw/learning.html

73,  Bill

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[Elecraft] K3 KXV3-RXA Mod

2010-04-08 Thread Evert Bakker (PA2KW)
Hello,

 

On my old KXV3 I installed a small PCB with sticky tape. It was an original
Elecraft mod. 

As far as I know this mod was installed to improve isolation of the receive
antenna on the original KXV3 board.

Now I'm installing the KXV3A board I have the next question:

 

Do I have to install this RXA mod pcb on the new KXV3A board? 

 

73's, Evert PA2KW

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[Elecraft] K2 VFO / Encoder Problem

2010-04-08 Thread Nigel (Nidge) Smith
I have in my possession a K2 that has developed a fault with 
the encoder.

When trying to tune the radio, rotating the encoder results in just
the last digit displayed flickering back and forth.

At first I thought the Optical encoder had failed and so ordered a 
replacement from Elecraft which arrived yesterday.  Today I installed
the new Encoder only to find that the problem still persists.

I have checked and confirmed there is a 5Volt supply on pin1 of the 
encoder, pins 2 and 3 fluctuate between 5Volt and 0.1Volt when the
encoder is advanced or retarded. Pin 4 appears to remain at 0.1Volt.
In the voltage charts at the back of the manual Pin 4 is connected to
pin 14 of U3, this according to the charts should be about 3.1Volt.

Obviously the encoder is not at fault, unless I've been un-lucky 
enough to have received another duff one.

Any advise on where I should be looking now.  Could it be possible
that U3 has failed as some of the pin voltages for this IC do 
not correspond to those listed at the back of the manual.

Many Thanks in Advance.

Nidge (G0NIG)

IO93dv
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KXV3-RXA Mod

2010-04-08 Thread Don Wilhelm
Evert,

It has been incorporated into the board.  Your mod PCB will not be needed.

73,
Don W3FPR

Evert Bakker (PA2KW) wrote:
 Do I have to install this RXA mod pcb on the new KXV3A board? 

   
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 VFO / Encoder Problem

2010-04-08 Thread Don Wilhelm
Nidge,

It is difficult to predice the exact voltage levels that will be present 
in digital signals at any particular time.  That may be why the U3 
redings may be off from what is listed in the manual.  Check by 
comparison instead.
Compare the voltage at FP U3 pin 14 with the voltage your meter reads at 
pins 7 and 15 - they should be similar.  If they are not, then it is 
likely that U3 has a damaged output at pin 14.

Additionally, check to be certain the signal at encoder pin 2 is making 
it to CB U6 pin 8 and the signal at encoder pin 3 makes it to CB U6 pin 16

73,
Don W3FPR

Nigel (Nidge) Smith wrote:
 I have in my possession a K2 that has developed a fault with 
 the encoder.

 When trying to tune the radio, rotating the encoder results in just
 the last digit displayed flickering back and forth.

 At first I thought the Optical encoder had failed and so ordered a 
 replacement from Elecraft which arrived yesterday.  Today I installed
 the new Encoder only to find that the problem still persists.

 I have checked and confirmed there is a 5Volt supply on pin1 of the 
 encoder, pins 2 and 3 fluctuate between 5Volt and 0.1Volt when the
 encoder is advanced or retarded. Pin 4 appears to remain at 0.1Volt.
 In the voltage charts at the back of the manual Pin 4 is connected to
 pin 14 of U3, this according to the charts should be about 3.1Volt.
   

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 VFO / Encoder Problem

2010-04-08 Thread Nigel (Nidge) Smith
Hi Don,

Many thanks for the quick reply.

So far the readings I get on U3 are as
follows:

Pin 14 =  0.1V and 0.133V when the encoder is
rotated.
Pin 15 =  4.12, which varies when the encoder is
rotated.
Pin 7 =  3.4V with slight variation when the
encoder is rotated.

So from the above would you say it's safe to
assume that U3 has a damaged output on
pin 14?

Again thanks very much for taking the time
to reply.

Regards

Nidge (G0NIG)

IO93dv


- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Nigel (Nidge) Smith nig_sm...@o2.co.uk
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 VFO / Encoder Problem


 Nidge,

 It is difficult to predice the exact voltage levels that will be present
 in digital signals at any particular time.  That may be why the U3
 redings may be off from what is listed in the manual.  Check by
 comparison instead.
 Compare the voltage at FP U3 pin 14 with the voltage your meter reads at
 pins 7 and 15 - they should be similar.  If they are not, then it is
 likely that U3 has a damaged output at pin 14.

 Additionally, check to be certain the signal at encoder pin 2 is making
 it to CB U6 pin 8 and the signal at encoder pin 3 makes it to CB U6 pin 16

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Nigel (Nidge) Smith wrote:
 I have in my possession a K2 that has developed a fault with
 the encoder.

 When trying to tune the radio, rotating the encoder results in just
 the last digit displayed flickering back and forth.

 At first I thought the Optical encoder had failed and so ordered a
 replacement from Elecraft which arrived yesterday.  Today I installed
 the new Encoder only to find that the problem still persists.

 I have checked and confirmed there is a 5Volt supply on pin1 of the
 encoder, pins 2 and 3 fluctuate between 5Volt and 0.1Volt when the
 encoder is advanced or retarded. Pin 4 appears to remain at 0.1Volt.
 In the voltage charts at the back of the manual Pin 4 is connected to
 pin 14 of U3, this according to the charts should be about 3.1Volt.








No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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19:32:00

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 VFO / Encoder Problem

2010-04-08 Thread Don Wilhelm
Nidge,

Yes, from that I would surmise that U3 pin 14 is damaged - however, 
check the ENC A and ENC B lines for continuity to the microprocessor 
just to be sure there is nothing wrong there.

73,
Don W3FPR

Nigel (Nidge) Smith wrote:
 Hi Don,

 Many thanks for the quick reply.

 So far the readings I get on U3 are as
 follows:

 Pin 14 =  0.1V and 0.133V when the encoder is
 rotated.
 Pin 15 =  4.12, which varies when the encoder is
 rotated.
 Pin 7 =  3.4V with slight variation when the
 encoder is rotated.

 So from the above would you say it's safe to
 assume that U3 has a damaged output on
 pin 14?

 Again thanks very much for taking the time
 to reply.

 Regards

 Nidge (G0NIG)
   

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[Elecraft] voltage drop

2010-04-08 Thread Dennis Watkins
anybody know what size power supply  wire is supplied
with the K3?
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 VFO / Encoder Problem

2010-04-08 Thread Nigel (Nidge) Smith
Thanks Don and Gary.

Have checked for bad joints and none found.

I've also checked for continuity between the
EncA and B to the main processor and they
are good.

The radio wasn't built by me but it had another fault
which I sorted.  Unfortunately during the first repair
process I dislodged a screw that had been dropped
between the displayboard and control board by a
previous user and I think that's what more than likely
has taken out U3.

I may have a replacement in my spares box somewhere
if not it will have to be ordered.

Now getting very late here and I have a 5am start so
will search later tomorrow.

Many thanks to you both for replying.

Regards

Nidge (G0NIG)

IO93dv
- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Nigel (Nidge) Smith nig_sm...@o2.co.uk
Cc: d...@w3fpr.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 VFO / Encoder Problem


 Nidge,

 Yes, from that I would surmise that U3 pin 14 is damaged - however,
 check the ENC A and ENC B lines for continuity to the microprocessor
 just to be sure there is nothing wrong there.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Nigel (Nidge) Smith wrote:
 Hi Don,

 Many thanks for the quick reply.

 So far the readings I get on U3 are as
 follows:

 Pin 14 =  0.1V and 0.133V when the encoder is
 rotated.
 Pin 15 =  4.12, which varies when the encoder is
 rotated.
 Pin 7 =  3.4V with slight variation when the
 encoder is rotated.

 So from the above would you say it's safe to
 assume that U3 has a damaged output on
 pin 14?

 Again thanks very much for taking the time
 to reply.

 Regards

 Nidge (G0NIG)








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[Elecraft] OT- 60 m band - 5 Mhz

2010-04-08 Thread Johnny Siu
Hello Group, 

It is off-topic.

I understand that there is 60m channels in USA.  Could any of you advise what 
is the rationale behind of 60m band allocation?  Is there any propagation 
advantage or ARES requirements related to 60m band allocation?

Could you please direct me to the right web-link for my further reference?  
There is NO 60m channels allocation in Hong Kong.

Thank you for your help in advance.

73

Johnny VR2XMC


  

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Re: [Elecraft] OT- 60 m band - 5 Mhz

2010-04-08 Thread Jim Wiley

Johnny -


I can give you some general ideas about the why of the 60 meter band 
in the USA.  First, the allocation was granted in response to a petition 
requesting a new band in the 5 MHz range. 


The primary justification offered was that the propagation 
characteristics of the 60 meter band would be expected to  be  useful 
when either the 75 meter band or the 40 meter band was not optimum for 
the traffic to be passed.  The increased flexibility would be useful in 
time of emergency.   The FCC agreed that  this was a valid reason for 
the allocation.


Second, the band was channelized to 5 discrete spots, as opposed to 
the anywhere in the band method used for all other bands.  Because the 
band is available on a shared basis, and the amateur service is not the 
primary user, the FCC stated that the use of discrete channels was the 
only way they could guarantee that interference to other users would be 
as low as possible.  Apparently, the sharing of frequencies on the 30 
meter band (another band where amateur radio is a secondary user) had 
generated some complaints.  I don't know how true this is, perhaps it is 
just a rumor. But, in any case, the 60 meter band ended up as a 
discrete channel operation.


There have been occasional reports that the FCC is considering opening 
up the band to other modes.  As things stand now,  60 meters  is the 
only USA allocated HF band where CW operation is prohibited.  In fact, 
the only mode permitted is USB voice, which is somewhat at odds with 
normal amateur practice, where all bands below 7.3 MHz use LSB for SSB 
operation.   Perhaps someday we will see other modes, VFO operation, and 
even a somewhat expanded frequency allocation, but there is no way to 
know if this will ever happen. 


Another quirk is the power limitation, 50 watts PEP maximum ERP, an 
unusual requirement to be sure.  This is possibly another accommodation 
to the primary users of the band.  The power limitations have proven 
problematical for some who attempt to use the band, as higher power 
levels are often useful when attempting to overcome the effects of poor 
propagation.


All these things together have operated to make the 60 meter band rather 
less used than some had originally  expected.  I suspect that when and 
if the rules are relaxed a bit, we will see more use.   


Jim, KL7CC




Johnny Siu wrote:
 Hello Group, 

 It is off-topic.

 I understand that there is 60m channels in USA.  Could any of you advise what 
 is the rationale behind of 60m band allocation?  Is there any propagation 
 advantage or ARES requirements related to 60m band allocation?

 Could you please direct me to the right web-link for my further reference?  
 There is NO 60m channels allocation in Hong Kong.

 Thank you for your help in advance.

 73

 Johnny VR2XMC


   

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Re: [Elecraft] OT- 60 m band - 5 Mhz

2010-04-08 Thread Bob McGraw - K4TAX
Here's the link:

http://www.60meters.net/

And here's the frequenices.


Channel   Nominal  Tuning Frequency (carrier)
1  5332kHz  5330.5kHz
2  5348kHz  5346.5kHz
3  5368kHz  5366.5kHz
4  5373kHz  5371.5kHz
5  5405kHz  5403.5kHz (common US/UK)

73
Bob, K4TAX




- Original Message - 
From: Johnny Siu vr2...@yahoo.com.hk
To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 6:09 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] OT- 60 m band - 5 Mhz


Hello Group,

It is off-topic.

I understand that there is 60m channels in USA. Could any of you advise what 
is the rationale behind of 60m band allocation? Is there any propagation 
advantage or ARES requirements related to 60m band allocation?

Could you please direct me to the right web-link for my further reference? 
There is NO 60m channels allocation in Hong Kong.

Thank you for your help in advance.

73

Johnny VR2XMC




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Re: [Elecraft] QRP, Portable, and Compromise Antennas

2010-04-08 Thread Phil Hystad
Bill,

I would say I am way ahead of you but I am ahead of you but maybe not.  I am 
also considering buying a vertical antenna and mounting it (a temporary easy to 
put up portable mount) on my truck (maybe a stake hole or something else I 
fashion together).  So, this would not be a dipole but I was thinking of laying 
out some ground plane wires too.  Again, I need time to experiment with this.

PEH

On Apr 8, 2010, at 12:07 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:

 
 
 Phil Hystad-3 wrote:
 
 I have a 35 foot long fiberglass telescoping pole that I stick in one of
 the stake holes of my pickup truck.  Then, with the center of my dipole
 attached to the top and coax already connected I extend the pole up to its
 full 35 foot length which puts the top of the dipole at 40 feet.  This can
 be done only when there is no wind as the top is not very stable as I have
 already discovered.  The ends of the dipole, sort of a inverted-V dipole,
 are connected to 6 foot long poles I pound into the sand a little bit,
 just enough for a stable anchor.
 
 
 IMO you'd do far better configuring your antenna as a vertical dipole over
 salt water.
 
 http://pages.prodigy.net/k2kw/dxcomp.htm
 http://www.elecraft.com/DXpeditions/QRP_is.pdf
 http://pages.prodigy.net/k2kw/learning.html
 
 73,  Bill
 
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/QRP-Portable-and-Compromise-Antennas-tp4872023p4873137.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K2 dead

2010-04-08 Thread W2bpi1
Before supper was working. Left on and went to supper. Came  back from 
supper and no display but power is on. No sig heard. Turn power switch  off. 
When I turn it back on no display and loud hum in headphones. Then I hear  some 
motor boating and headphones go dead. Check input voltage. SW off 13 VDC,  
SW on 4 VDC. Check cable and it is OK. Try another power supply and cable. 
Same  thing happens.  Now what?  Help   Geo/W2BPI
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KXV3-RXA Mod

2010-04-08 Thread VE3NFK

weelll   

I got the new 'a' version AND installed the sticky tape mod is that a
problem?

thanks

73 John VE3NFK
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Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 dead

2010-04-08 Thread Don Wilhelm
Geo,

First step --
Take the top cover (or KPA100) off and measure the resistance between 
the collectors of Q7 and Q8 to ground.
What is the serial number of this K2?  Alternately, how old is it.
My first suspicion is that the PA transistors have gone bad (shorted), 
but your resistance measurement will confirm or deny that.

73,
Don W3FPR

w2b...@aol.com wrote:
 Before supper was working. Left on and went to supper. Came  back from 
 supper and no display but power is on. No sig heard. Turn power switch  off. 
 When I turn it back on no display and loud hum in headphones. Then I hear  
 some 
 motor boating and headphones go dead. Check input voltage. SW off 13 VDC,  
 SW on 4 VDC. Check cable and it is OK. Try another power supply and cable. 
 Same  thing happens.  Now what?  Help   Geo/W2BPI
   

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KXV3-RXA Mod

2010-04-08 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

I guess you have double protection :-) .
Actually I don't think that is a benefit, and may be a deficit, so I 
would remove the 'sticky tape mod'.

73,
Don W3FPR

VE3NFK wrote:
 weelll   

 I got the new 'a' version AND installed the sticky tape mod is that a
 problem?

 thanks

 73 John VE3NFK
   
   
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