The BMW UUC Digest Volume 1 : Issue 88 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Buyers Guide for a 2001 X5 Re: Buyers Guide for a 2001 X5 Re: E30 control arm bushing and wheel bearing/hub Looking for a TC Kline rollbar... Re: For Sale Ski/snowboard racks Re: Steering Column Squeek Re: E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there? Re: E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there? Re: E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there? Floating in the 'Bay <E39> Issues 97 M3 for sale <misc> how do I ship my car Re: <misc> how do I ship my car
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 07:56:34 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Buyers Guide for a 2001 X5 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My friend, who goes thru automobiles like candy, traded in his 2002 330Ci for a 1997 Range Rover 4.0. Of coarse he did this without consulting me, and now the Range Rover has cost him over $3.000 in repairs since he has owned it (4 months). Lucas strikes again. Anyway, now he is eyeing a 2001 X5 (not sure what engine or options yet) and wants my advice. Any dos or don'ts for a 2001 x5. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Phil ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 19:33:33 -0800 From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Buyers Guide for a 2001 X5 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> X5 Comments: 1. As I recall, the X5 is the only BMW listed in Consumer Reports as a "Don't Buy". 2. A friend, who sells BMWs for a living, wouldn't sell me one when I inquired a year or so ago. He told me to look at a Cayenne if I really had to have a SUV. 3. If your friend really wants to buy one, I think I know someone who will sell his at $10K below blue book as that's all he could get as a trade-in from the local BMW dealer. John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S (UUC SS Coming) '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 4:56 AM Subject: [UUC] Buyers Guide for a 2001 X5 > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > My friend, who goes thru automobiles like candy, traded in his 2002 330Ci > for a 1997 Range Rover 4.0. Of coarse he did this without consulting me, > and now the Range Rover has cost him over $3.000 in repairs since he has > owned it (4 months). Lucas strikes again. > > Anyway, now he is eyeing a 2001 X5 (not sure what engine or options yet) > and wants my advice. Any dos or don'ts for a 2001 x5. Any suggestions > will be appreciated. > > > Phil > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 08:56:09 -0600 From: "Dan Hagrman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 control arm bushing and wheel bearing/hub Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dave, I use dish soap; have not used terpentine. Coat the bushing hole and control arm end with the soap. Off the car, you can push (hard!) but on the car, I use a 1/2" U-bolt with a couple allthread extenders to crank the bushing onto the c/a. Put a socket on the end to get the bushing all the way down. It's nearly impossible for mortals to push the bushing on freehand while the c/a is on the car with soap. I'll have to try terpentine sometime though... 3 minutes is not a lot of time to get the car down; you should get the wheel on and car down (and rolled) before the lubricant sets up / dries off. Yes, a pipe wrench (and a vice) is ideal for removing the shock. You can probably find a key wrench for installing, but I use a pipe wrench there too. good luck, dan in kc, e30s Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 14:21:49 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E30 control arm bushing and wheel bearing/hub Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> All, < edit > Bentley mentions using a special lube that will go inactive after thirty minutes to "lock" the bushing in place (while properly loaded on the ground). Is it necessary to use this lube? Would a pipe wrench be suitable for tightening the threaded collar or should I use something else? Thanks!! </ edit > Dave ’84 ETA [Attachment of type application/ms-tnef removed.] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 08:44:55 -0800 (PST) From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Looking for a TC Kline rollbar... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, I'm looking to add a TCK roll bar to my E36 coupe, and wanted to see if anyone had one (or knew of one) for sale. I'm in no rush for it, so if you're planning a full cage later in the winter/spring, I wouldn't mind waiting awhile. Please contact me off-list if you know of anything (other than the one that recently posted to this list - I missed that one...). Thanks, Neil 1999 M3 1994 325is __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 11:56:13 -0500 From: "Paci, Noah" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "E36M3" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: For Sale Ski/snowboard racks Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have the setup for the coupe, a roof rack and the hard case that attaches to the rack(via some metal rails). The case has internal spaces that grab the ski's and hold them in place. There is also a locking mechanism on the back of the case. The roof rack will only work on a coupe models of the e36. I am in Northern VA and would like to sell it to someone local. How does $275/obo sound? Noah Paci ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 12:50:21 -0500 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Steering Column Squeek Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I think my first bet would be to buy some MCL (Moving Contact Lubricant) from Caig Labs (www.caig.com) and give it a shot. < BMW specifies CRC Copper Paste (it is now NLA through BMW for some reason), you can get an equivalent at your local NAPA. Its called Copper Anti-Seize and its cheap. Removing the steering wheel to get to the slip ring is not too difficult. Just unhook the battery and pull the wheel off. No need to wait unless the system already has the SRS light on. If you tamper with it with the battery hooked up, you will likely throw an SRS fault (or even have the airbag go off). YMMV -Justin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 09:54:08 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I guess I'm naieve, but what is there about a warning triangle that has to be DOT approved? Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 12:18:33 -0500 >From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there? >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >The warning triangle that's not DOT approved, therefore not shipped with the >car from Germany. > >Brett Anderson >KMS > >-----Original Message----- >On Behalf Of Karl Zemlin >I guess the title says it all. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 16:30:26 -0500 From: "Bill Matthews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > I guess I'm naive, but what is there about a warning triangle that has to > be DOT approved? > It's sold as part of the safety equipment of the car. I suspect that means it must have DOT approval, and that means $$$ to the bureaucracy for testing something that really doesn't need to be tested. It is easier (and cheaper) just to leave it out as most customers won't miss it. Bill Matthews 00 M Geeze some Volvos other cars ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 19:44:21 -0800 From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Scott, To answer your question, I don't think there is any problem as I got one from my local dealer when I bought my 2nd E39. I had a European delivery E39 before that with the warning triangle included. I thought it was standard equipment and complained. Rather than argue with me (I was wrong, of course) they just ordered me one to shut me up. John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S (UUC SS Coming) '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 9:54 AM Subject: Re: [UUC] E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there? > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > I guess I'm naieve, but what is there about a warning triangle that has to > be DOT approved? > > Scott Miller > GGC BMW CCA > > >Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 12:18:33 -0500 > >From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Subject: Re: E34 Touring - Velcro straps in tool kit - What goes there? > >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > >The warning triangle that's not DOT approved, therefore not shipped with > the > >car from Germany. > > > >Brett Anderson > >KMS > > > >-----Original Message----- > >On Behalf Of Karl Zemlin > >I guess the title says it all. > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 16:30:19 -0500 From: "Matt Malfa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Floating in the 'Bay Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a couple of eBay auctions that are ending very shortly. All of the items are E36 interior parts, left over from my gray-to-black swap. You can view them here: http://tinyurl.com/2k8km thanks, - -Matt ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 19:44:59 -0800 From: "Michael" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E39> Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm evaluating an E39 2002 525i CPO from a local dealer and would appreciate any feedback regarding the following issues that seem to plague this particular vehicle. 1. Shimmy: I've owned several E28's and an E34 that possess the "infamous" shimmy - virtually eliminated by using the "beefier" thrust arm bushings. Did the E39 inherit this "feature"? 2. "Moaning" Chassis: The vehicle tends to "creek" or "moan" when accelerating or decelerating, but isn't noticeable when going over most large bumps. The noise seems to be generated from the two front doors. Will coating the front door's seal with silicon lubricant be a viable fix? 3. Tire/Road noise: This vehicle has the sport package and I have owned or driven other BMW's with the sport package, but none were as loud as this vehicle. The noise from the front two tires at low speeds seems to be above the comfort level, while at highway speeds, road/tire noises seem to be undetectable. Would a change in rubber (currently Bridgestone) eliminate the road noise as low speeds? Thanks. Michael ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 01:02:10 -0800 From: Kit Wetzler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: 97 M3 for sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Fresh Cosmos black, due to some miscreant keying the poor car summer 2003. $9000 paint job at Stanford Lamborghini/European, was almost fully stripped to bare metal and painted. All exterior plastics replaced. Mulberry interior, treated with Leatherique. http://www.joe-r.net/~kitw/m3_for_sale 97 m3 4 door, 129K miles. Car has the following modifications. Power stuff: Jim Conforti shark injector (ecu reprogram, 7000 rpm (vs 6500 rpm factory limiter, and easily removed) Rogue Engineering transmission mounts (don't transmit much vibration at all) electric fan replacement (spal, both automatic and manual operation) UUC accessory underdrive pulleys TC Kline 11lb flywheel, stock clutch with 30K miles on it M50/S50 intake manifold Suspension/Brakes: 20K mile old Factory suspension (bought from a friend with a 99 M3, replaced my worn out stock suspension) Powerflex Polyurethane front and rear control arm bushings (no squeaks) E46 M3 rear shock mounts 17x7.5 17x8.5 stagger 10 spoke polished factory wheels Factory M3 convertible X brace (stiffens front control arm mounting points) Axxis ultimate brake pads, 2K miles old Stainless steel braided brake lines Welded TC Kline rear sway bar reinforcements Foo foo stuff: UUC Comp EVO II short shifter with cartridge bearing and delrin carrier bushing upgrade UUC lighted shift knob MOMO pedals JVC SH-909 MP3 deck JL Audio 10W0 sub in trunk box, firing through ski pass through Rockford Fosgate 400a4 amp Polk Audio 5.25" components (can't remember model) in stock kick panels, tweets flush mounted near woofers European Projector headlights with McCulloch HID European Clear conrner lamps, front and rear (factory) Blacked out front grill M3 LTW bumper extensions JTD aluminum underpanel E39 M5 lip spoiler on the trunk Parts recently replaced: Front sway bar endlinks Clutch 30K miles ago Headlights are new Water pump Engine mounts poly control arm bushings (10K ago) exhaust (has 3K miles on it) radiator radiator hoses accessory belts rear differential (replaced 30K miles ago) Guibo (rubber coupler in driveshaft) side mouldings, door trim, rear emblems (during paint job) Climate control unit (20K miles ago) shifter (10K miles ago) Fluids (Redline MT90 in tranny, Redline Shockproof in the diff, BMW 5w30 Synthetic oil, Redline P/S) Interior is in good shape, not perfect but pretty good. The exterior is in perfect shape, as it has just been repainted. I'm in no hurry to sell, but it'd be really nice if it went to a good home. Drop me an email at [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you are interested. I'm in Saudi Arabia until thursday but would be happy to show the car anytime after that. I'm asking $14,500 -kit ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 05:57:17 -0600 (CST) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <misc> how do I ship my car Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The wife and I are relocating in the coming months, and one option I have for moving my car is to have the moving company pack it in the van along with the rest of our household possessions. As we'll be driving another (much smaller) rented van ourselves (to carry items we either can't live without for 10 days or the movers will not take), driving my car becomes a difficult option (I drive the BMW; the wife drives the rented van filled with plants, office gear, and little furry creaters... and neither of us wants to do that). But the idea of packing my car away is a bit intimidating too. If anybody has done this and can share a BDDT, I'd be grateful. - k ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 07:30:17 -0500 From: "Langsten" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <misc> how do I ship my car Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kevin, There are numerous ways . . Packing it with your stuff is a common practice, I have seen this done, the trailers have the appropriate tie downs, and the shippers protect your car from falling boxes and tumbling bureaus . . not to worry. Open transport . . you do have some small risk of damage to your car, either from leaking fluid from another car, road debris, or vandalism at a truck stop. Enclosed, by a professional auto moving company, likely the most secure , but also the most expensive way type Auto Transporters into Google , or variations thereof. . and dial away. FWIW, I have been shipping cars nationwide for customers during the past 15 years, never had a problem other than a small roof scratch . . . In the winter I often recommend enclosed transport depending on weather and where it's going. You should also be awae that very few truckers will take a direct route to your destination. They zig zag all over the place and may be loading and unloading your car along the way. The cheapest prices often are trhough a firm that gets car to a terminal location and then loads them. Good luck, Mario L. www.VSR1.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 6:57 AM Subject: [UUC] <misc> how do I ship my car > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > The wife and I are relocating in the coming months, and one option I have for > moving my car is to have the moving company pack it in the van along with the > rest of our household possessions. As we'll be driving another (much smaller) > rented van ourselves (to carry items we either can't live without for 10 days > or the movers will not take), driving my car becomes a difficult option (I > drive the BMW; the wife drives the rented van filled with plants, office > gear, and little furry creaters... and neither of us wants to do that). > > But the idea of packing my car away is a bit intimidating too. If anybody has > done this and can share a BDDT, I'd be grateful. > > - k > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages) **********
