The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 1 : Issue 85 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Fuel Pump for WHAT ??
Re: urgent- E34 instrument cluster capacitor repair
E30 control arm bushing and wheel bearing/hub
Re: E30 control arm bushing and wheel bearing/hub
Alternator for 325e
Re: Alternator for 325e
Re: Alternator for 325e
Re: Alternator for 325e
MIG Welder
Re: MIG Welder
Test only
Re: Steering Column Squeak
Re: Steering Column Squeak
Bimmerparsts and Replacementautoparts
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 11:11:57 -0500
From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Fuel Pump for WHAT ??
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16 12 1 150 481 - Suction Device With Pump
Application:
E21 - 318i, 320i, 323i
This is an old part number that has been superseded (twice), originally in 1983
16 12 1 150 482 - Sending Unit Assy Metal Tank
Application:
E21 - 318i, 320i, 323i
E23 - 728i, 732i, 733i, 735i, 745i (depending on version, etc.)
No, the Butler didn't do it.
Regards,
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 14:17:54 -0500
From: Dana Earl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: urgent- E34 instrument cluster capacitor repair
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>I've got the cluster out of the car to replace the capacitors (and get back
>continuous function of the gages). With the help of the E34.net write-up, I've
>identified two capacitors: 1000 mF and 220 mF. The board is an 89 production date.
>There are two additional capacitors, about 2/3 the size of the 220 mF. The values of
>these two (most likely identical) capacitors is not apparent to my electrician and I.
>
>Can anyone offer any insight as to the values?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Roland
>
>
>
>
The smaller capacitors are 22 mF.
Dana Earl
94 530i
and an 89 535i in the past - BTDT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 14:21:49 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: E30 control arm bushing and wheel bearing/hub
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
All,
Doing the front susp. on my eta this weekend and I have a quick question about
installing the control arm bushing. Once its pressed into the bracket by a shop,
Bentley mentions using a special lube that will go inactive after thirty minutes to
"lock" the bushing in place (while properly loaded on the ground). Is it necessary
to use this lube? I've seen in the archives people mention dish soap but wasn't sure
if they were referring to pressing it into the bracket or installing it on the arm
itself.
Also, I purchased two strut housing from a wrecker in CT�.they look good but does the
toothed wheel on the backside mean they are for a car with ABS? If so, can they be
removed without taking the bearing/hub off the spindle or am I looking at two new
bearings? Can I do without the dust shield between the hub and the caliper
mounting?...one didn't come with it.
One more. I�m replacing the front Boge dampers with Bilstein. Would a pipe wrench
be suitable for tightening the threaded collar or should I use something else? Thanks!!
Dave
�84 ETA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 15:19:22 -0500
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E30 control arm bushing and wheel bearing/hub
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Best thing to use for the bushings is turpentine, but you have to move fast
to get them into position, before they glue themselves to the arm. You have
about 3 minutes to get the bushings into place.
There is no such thing as a non ABS wheel bearing anymore. The sensors are
included on all front bearings from BMW these days. If your car does not
have ABS, don't worry about it. All it means is that you won't have the
sensor that would read the tone ring on an ABS equipped car, leaving an
unused mounting hole in the spindle.
Brett Anderson
KMS
-----Original Message-----
Doing the front susp. on my eta this weekend and I have a quick question
about installing the control arm bushing. Once its pressed into the bracket
by a shop, Bentley mentions using a special lube that will go inactive after
thirty minutes to "lock" the bushing in place (while properly loaded on the
ground). Is it necessary to use this lube? I've seen in the archives
people mention dish soap but wasn't sure if they were referring to pressing
it into the bracket or installing it on the arm itself.
Also, I purchased two strut housing from a wrecker in CT�.they look good but
does the toothed wheel on the backside mean they are for a car with ABS?
If so, can they be removed without taking the bearing/hub off the spindle or
am I looking at two new bearings? Can I do without the dust shield between
the hub and the caliper mounting?...one didn't come with it.
One more. I�m replacing the front Boge dampers with Bilstein. Would a
pipe wrench be suitable for tightening the threaded collar or should I use
something else? Thanks!!
Dave
�84 ETA
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 14:27:25 -0500
From: "Carey Probst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Alternator for 325e
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Car wouldn't start this morning in the sub-zero weather in Upstate NY today. Thought
it was the battery but it checked out fine.
After testing the local garage said the alternator was not putting out high enough
voltage, only 13 and it should be closer to 15.
Can this be rebuilt or do I need a new one?
Anyone have a good source for an alternator? Bavauto wants $235 for the 325e.
TIA
Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam
BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters
JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced
A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State,
the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 15:09:26 -0500
From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Alternator for 325e
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
carey says
> Car wouldn't start this morning in the sub-zero weather in Upstate NY
today. Thought it was the battery but it checked out fine.
> After testing the local garage said the alternator was not putting out
high enough voltage, only 13 and it should be closer to 15.
while the alternator may be flaky, does it really affect the starting of the
car? I didn't think so unless it's really screwed. Was the car being revved
a bit higher during the test? at normal idle, the alternator doesn't kick
out enough juice to charge things properly..
how did you check out the battery? outside with a load or inside (warmed up)
in the shop? or did they check for shorted out cells?
did the engine turn over at all? if it did, measure the battery as you
crank.. if it drops down below 10v, the battery is generally no good. What
works fine at -10 may be insufficient at -20..
how old is the battery? more than 3 or 4 years and you're living on borrowed
time in the NE
the alternator is nothing special and you might find someone local that can
rebuild it. A brush set and voltage regulator are available separately from
bmw.
for those of is living in the more chilly parts of the world, note that you
can install a bigger battery than stock in your E30 (use the 7 series ones)
for a few more Cold Cranking Amps ;)
Yes, it weighs more, but damn it works good in the winter!
synthetic also makes starting waaaay easier (although the clutch pedal still
feels like it's full of molasses! and even with synthetic, the gearbox
sometimes needs two hands to get into gear)
brrr.. -30C (-20F) this morning with a nice brisk breeze making it feel
like -40 (C or F) !
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
Chris Pawlowicz CP Consulting
Phone: 613-294-3089 Fax: 613-237-6671
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Web: http://cpcperformance.com
*************Featuring Stebro stainless steel exhaust systems - now for E46
M3
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 15:13:06 -0500
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Alternator for 325e
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
You want 13.8V give or take .1V from this alternator.
If you have more, or less, check the condition of the ground cable from the
back of the alternator to the block. Also check the condition of the
brushes on the voltage regulator.
It's very rare for these early alternators to fail. The regulator may, but
it can be replaced separately.
Brett Anderson
KMS
-----Original Message-----
Car wouldn't start this morning in the sub-zero weather in Upstate NY today.
Thought it was the battery but it checked out fine.
After testing the local garage said the alternator was not putting out high
enough voltage, only 13 and it should be closer to 15.
Can this be rebuilt or do I need a new one?
Anyone have a good source for an alternator? Bavauto wants $235 for the
325e.
Carey Probst,
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 14:44:05 -0500
From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Alternator for 325e
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I think the alternator should be at 13.1V. Measure the voltage at the
battery.
I think your problem may lie elsewhere.
Lee
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Carey Probst
> Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 14:27
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [UUC] Alternator for 325e
>
>
> Search the
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> Car wouldn't start this morning in the sub-zero weather in
> Upstate NY today. Thought it was the battery but it checked out fine.
>
> After testing the local garage said the alternator was not
> putting out high enough voltage, only 13 and it should be
> closer to 15.
>
> Can this be rebuilt or do I need a new one?
>
> Anyone have a good source for an alternator? Bavauto wants
> $235 for the 325e.
>
> TIA
>
>
>
> Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam
> BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters
> JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced
>
> A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a
> free State,
> the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> ____________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of
> the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 12:52:16 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: MIG Welder
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I'm thinking about buying a small wire-fed MIG welder to do those inevitable
home garage jobs, such as welding up brackets or reinforcements. I'm not
going to be building my own tube frame formula car chassis, and the unit
will probably be used relatively infrequently.
It looks as if about 130 amps is as high as these units go on 120V, and
while I do have 240V available in the garage, I'd get more flexibility of
use out of a 120V welder. This will weld mild steel up to 3/16" thick, which
seems adequate, and can also handle aluminum. Depending on brand, the price
range for a 130A MIG welder with cart, torch and gas regulator is in the
$350-500 area. (Helmet and other protective gear are extra.) I don't want to
get the cheapest POS no-name I can find, but neither does it seem worthwhile
to get the Rolls Royce of welders. Of the brands I've looked at, Clarke
seems to be the value leader, Hobart and Lincoln rather more expensive, and
Miller well into professional equipment pricing levels.
Anyone have useful do's, don'ts, or D'ohs! to offer?
And no, I've never used a welder. But it should be fun to learn. However my
wife insists that I'm not allowed to weld anything that's life-critical...
Neil
96 M3
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 09:25:11 -0500
From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: MIG Welder
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Neil asks
> I'm thinking about buying a small wire-fed MIG welder to do those
inevitable
> home garage jobs, such as welding up brackets or reinforcements. I'm not
> going to be building my own tube frame formula car chassis, and the unit
> will probably be used relatively infrequently.
>
well, I just bought a MIG welder for home use and here's a few thoughts
-as with most tools, you get what you pay for.. sure, the cheapo socket sets
work for a while.. but tend to break and slip and drive you nuts when you
really need them.. get the best you can afford!
-the drive mechanism for the wire (pretty much the only moving part) range
in quality quite dramatically.. from all plastic (lincoln) to all metal
(miller is all metal) and in between.. some use a single drive wheel, some
use two.. not sure if that matters much
-duty cycle.. cheaper units often have less duty cycle which means more
waiting, less welding..
-accessories - if you want to do aluminum, it is nice to be able to hook up
a spool right at the end of the gun.. some welders can do this, some can't
I went with 120V because lots of people have told me it works just fine for
sheet metal (ie car bodywork) which is mostly what I want to do. I went to
my local gas/welding store, talked to them, and chose one of the lines they
carry. I went with a miller 135 over the lincoln because of the drive
mechanism and the aluminum accessories.
The 120v ones generally need a 20A circuit and it's best if it's the only
thing on that circuit.
Because you'll need gas (generally leased bottle from a local company), see
who is local and talk to them. I prefer dealing with a local company rather
than a big-box store or mail order.
HTP makes pretty nice welders you might check out. For me, there was nobody
local and I didn't want to deal with cross-border hassles if anything went
wrong.
I've also signed up for a welding course the local college.. starts Monday
(yay!)
Don't forget the welding helmet (auto-darken ones are pretty slick), gloves,
and maybe a grinder for cleaning up the metal before welding.
hope this helps
Chris
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
Chris Pawlowicz CP Consulting
Phone: 613-294-3089 Fax: 613-237-6671
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Web: http://cpcperformance.com
*************Featuring Stebro stainless steel exhaust systems
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 11:29:04 -0800
From: "BMWBits" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "2002digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E21 Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
"E9coupes BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
"Senior Six Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
"Sixer coupe Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
"Uucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Test only
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Having had 'intermittency' problems in my ability to communicate with
digests via a 'carrier' ISP for the past few months I have now reverted
back to 'the old way ' wot always worked . So this is just a test to see
if it works right proper-like.
Do not send cash or credit card ....
Bill & Shirley Proud
Seattle Summers , Tennessee Winters .
Long Commute between ,
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 09:56:38 -0500
From: Dave Meyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Steering Column Squeak
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Excellent - that make two votes for slip ring. Any one know the part
>number? Or procedure, if not in the Bentley.
On my 99 E36 328is with M three-spoke steering wheel, the Slip Ring PN is
32 34 1 162 111. The accompanying diagram makes it look like a simple
remove front wheel cover & replace slip ring job, but I've never done it
myself and don't know about any possible airbag issues.
Dave Meyer
99 328is
03 FLHRI
Stafford VA
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 10:22:57 -0500
From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Steering Column Squeak
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I think my first bet would be to buy some MCL (Moving Contact Lubricant)
from Caig Labs (www.caig.com) and give it a shot.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 10:51:38 -0500
From: "Carey Probst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "E36M3" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Bimmerparsts and Replacementautoparts
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Does anyone know if these sites are the same?
Very similar but the replacementautoparts site has slightly lover prices, same
shipping and return policies, and the 800 number is only 1 different from Bimmerparts.
Figure if they are the same, buy from the cheaper of the 2.
TIA
Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam
BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters
JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages)
**********
