On Sep 4, 11:13 am, Ira <[email protected]> wrote:
> At 06:07 AM 9/4/2009, you wrote:
>
> > From a cold start, the LCD displays about 20 and then proceeds up to
> >95 as the boiler heats. Within a few minutes, it then continues
> >heating and the E1 displays. One thing I did not do when I removed
> >the old sensor and replaced it was to add much thermal grease. I just
>
> So the problem is it keeps heating. Time to work on the next problem.
>
> Make sure P0 is set to 1. P7 is set to 0 and the set temperature is
> quite low, 60 and then see what happens.
>
> If you didn't add white thermal grease, available at Frys or any
> decent computer or electronics store that might be the problem. The
> lack of white goo can cause the sensor to lag far behind allowing the
> boiler to overheat and when the sensor reads 110 degrees you get E1.
> With it set to 60 maybe it will cycle between 60 and 80 or 90 and
> we'll know that's the problem.
>
> When you're watching the display, does the little red light go out
> when expected and do you hear a soft click at that exact moment?
>
> Where do the wires connected to terminals 6, 7, 8 and 9 go? List each
> number individually with it's destination. Should look like:
>
> 6 should go all the way to one side of the power switch, might
> travel through some connectors or shared terminals White with a blue stripe
> 7 should go all the way to the other side of the power switch, might
> travel through some connectors or shared terminals White
> 8 Should go to the thermoswitch on top of the brew boiler White
> 9 Should go to the pressurestat
>
> If it still continues to heat past 80, disconnect the wire from
> terminal 9 and tie it out of the way, Remember it's electrically hot
> so no touching it or touching it to anything. Put a piece of rubber
> tubing, a soda straw or a wire nut over it for protection. Now plug
> the machine in and turn it on, what happens?
>
> Ira
Well, there is now a new wrinkle, as the brew boiler does not appear
to heat high enough, although the light clicks on. The water only
gets warm.
Here is the story. I greased up the temperature probe with the good
stuff--Artic silver thermal paste and slipped it into the boiler. It
read 20, which is about room temperature.
I triple-checked the wiring against my photos from before I replaced
the controller. They are attached the same as before, except that at
first checking, the wire to the pressurestat is not #9 (I think it was
#8, but I will check them in the AM) The bottom line is that they
are definitely connected the same as they were previously. Remember
that this is a B1, in case you have a B2 and perhaps the wiring is
slightly different.
Here are the settings for the controller (I am not certain which
settings are correct, as there are discrepancies amongst various
owners, it seems):
C0= -5
C1= 1
with C2= 60 (at that temperature, the temperature in the front (brew)
boiler was 21-22 degrees, only because opened the brew head switch
and ran some water through it. The boiler was not warm to the touch)
with C2=95 (the water temp rose to 36. The orange light went on with
a heater, but it must have been the back boiler, as occasional hissing
was heard from the pressurestat)
C3= -45
C4= 1
C5= 0
C7= 0
C8= 0
d0= 1
d1= 0
d2= 2
d3= 5
L5= 0
L6= 0
PU = 0
P0 = 1
P1-7= 0
EP either 22 or 36 as mentioned above.
Boy this is confusing. First, I have a problem with overheating (at
least that is what it seemed like) and now the brew boiler won't heat
(the back boiler heats up just fine, as I get hot water out of the
right spigot and steam out of the other). I am all ears....
Thanks
Ken K
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