Yes, the short copper line from solenoid to bottom of steam boiler. Ironically, 
the copper line to the water wand was plugged with a thick sludge last summer, 
and is clean as a whistle now (but I’ve been dumping the boiler via that wand 
more regularly since I found that).

My new tube isn’t perfectly smooth, so will probably clog faster again, but I 
at least know how to make a new one!

best,
bmc

> On Oct 19, 2016, at 14:47, herman dickens <hermandick...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Glad you got it going. Mine's been running almost 11 years and the only 
> internal part I replaced was  a spring and plunger that lets the pressure off 
> the group. So far the rest of it is holding together. Is it the copper line 
> that connects to the  solenoid that you replaced?
> 
> 
> 
> On Wed, Oct 19, 2016 at 5:17 PM, Benjamin McCafferty <bmacpi...@me.com 
> <mailto:bmacpi...@me.com>> wrote:
> My family said, “You better get that damn machine fixed soon…” I think the 
> lack of daddy-caffeination was getting old.
> 
> Anyway, back in business with a couple of lessons learned.
> 
> First, the Mater p-stat ($36 at espresso parts) is a direct replacement for 
> the original, and provides a good west coast option for those of us this 
> direction. It is easy to adjust, using a top screw instead of the knurled 
> knob. I expect the durability to be similar to stock, maybe a year to 18 
> months, but we’ll see.  For the price, easy enough to have a backup on hand.
> 
> As discovered after talking to Todd, the copper fill line between the 
> solenoid and the steam boiler was nearly totally plugged with stone/scale. I 
> cleaned out the fitting on the boiler, and looked in the boiler with a 
> borescope, finding basically no scale at all; if anything, just the finest 
> grey coat. The water line to the water wand was also perfectly clean. So I’m 
> perplexed on why this one part was so bad, but perhaps the fitting was 
> clogged a bit last year and I missed cleaning it, then low flow was letting 
> it build faster? Anyway, I built a new copper tube with my dad’s old flare 
> tool from the 50’s, and reassembled. The run-on pump is fixed, and I am 
> actually shocked at how much quieter the pump is now! A good reminder how 
> things creep up on you and you don’t notice the small differences day-to-day; 
> like watching your hair grow. The machine is now almost totally vibe-free.
> 
> A couple of other things I’d been chasing are still there—which are drips 
> from the group, and drips from the bypass/overflow tube below the group. My 
> house water pressure is high, so I’m guessing that some seal in the pump is 
> slowly failing, allowing the bypass/overflow to drip all the time. The group 
> also drips a bit all the time, but at a much slower rate. I’ve never replaced 
> the internals there so it’s probably time by now, after 8-9 years in service 
> I think.
> 
> Heading over to Seattle soon to demo the small Slayer and the one-group 
> Synesso. My wife, wisely, said, “You’re not allowed to touch them.” Doubt 
> I’ll make that plunge just now, but who knows…  Meanwhile, glad to have my 
> almost-all-parts-replaced-in-the-last-year Brewtus back in action, making 
> some very nice coffee.
> 
> best,
> bmc
> 
>> On Oct 12, 2016, at 16:28, Benjamin McCafferty <bmacpi...@me.com 
>> <mailto:bmacpi...@me.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> May have this one solved.
>> 
>> The p-stat question was already pretty much resolved, I just included that 
>> for the next guy. Trying a Mater p-stat this time around, as it’s available 
>> locally and pretty cheap.
>> 
>> As to the running pump. Todd gave me a call (thanks as always, Todd!) and we 
>> chatted about this. His three suggestions were to:
>> —Ground the sensor wire for the steam boiler when the pump was running and 
>> see if it would stop the pump (did this, and it shut the pump down as 
>> expected, so the controls are working; I also pulled the sensor rod out and 
>> descaled/cleaned just to be sure it was conducting electricity easily)
>> 
>> —Time how long it takes the pump to refill the boiler after dispensing a 
>> given quantity of water, and compare that to a new machine (it took just 
>> over 2 minutes, no matter what quantity of water I dispensed, and the 
>> machine would run for just over 2 minutes each time I turned it off and back 
>> on, even if the boiler was full—I’m thinking the control board may have a 2 
>> minute maximum to protect the pump, but that’s just a guess. It was 
>> consistently 2 min and about 3-5 seconds)
>> 
>> —Check for debris on the steam boiler side of the solenoid, i.e. something 
>> clogging things and making it hard for the pump to fill the boiler (Being 
>> lazy, I pulled the copper pipe that runs from the solenoid to the bottom of 
>> the boiler to try to avoid having to disassemble everything to get at the 
>> solenoid, in case it was just something right in the end of the pipe.  
>> Wow—the adapter to the boiler was almost totally scaled shut, with just a 
>> tiny pinhole still through it. I pulled the hot water pipe next, i.e. boiler 
>> to hot water wand, and it was totally clear. So my hope is that I just need 
>> to clean out the adapter and be back in business. Weird; last year when I 
>> tore the machine down all the way, there was almost no scale anywhere after 
>> 7 or more years and essentially no descaling along the way. Now, in about a 
>> year, this adapter is nearly closed off.)
>> 
>> Will keep you posted on the progress; pics attached if the list lets me. 
>> I’ll stick a bore scope into the boiler to see how scale looks on the 
>> element while I’m here.
>> best,
>> bmc
>> 
>> Top/boiler side:
>> <IMG_2467.jpeg>
>> 
>> 
>> Bottom/tubing side:
>> <IMG_2468.JPG>
>> 
>> 
>>> On Oct 9, 2016, at 05:47, hermandick...@gmail.com 
>>> <mailto:hermandick...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> If you replace the internals let me know what parts you used and how it 
>>> goes. Mine is on a timer so it doesn't run at night. Mine has the vibe pump 
>>> too. Right now my power is out from the hurricane and has been since 
>>> yesterday afternoon. Not sure when I'll get power back so I probably won't 
>>> check my emails again for a while. Hope you can track down the problem.  
>>> Herman
>>> 
>>> Sent from my android device.
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Benjamin McCafferty <bmacpi...@me.com <mailto:bmacpi...@me.com>>
>>> To: brewtus@googlegroups.com <mailto:brewtus@googlegroups.com>
>>> Sent: Sat, 08 Oct 2016 7:40 PM
>>> Subject: Re: Pressurestat and run-on pump
>>> 
>>> Hi again to all,
>>> 
>>> No ideas on the running pump yet, but a couple of new thoughts I’ve had.
>>> —The drip tray is pretty full in the morning—I’ve never seen a single drip, 
>>> but it seems it’s filling. Maybe a leak in the group that’s dripping out 
>>> the bottom? Or the return pipe?
>>> —Since the pump is running with the lever down, I’m thinking this must be 
>>> the steam boiler causing the problem, yes? In other words, the water level 
>>> dropping, and pump refilling.
>>> 
>>> Still clueless, but thinking I’ll replace the (original, 8 year old) 
>>> internals in the group and see if that helps the situation.
>>> 
>>> Any other ideas? Todd?
>>> 
>>> best,
>>> bmc
>>> 
>>>> On Sep 26, 2016, at 12:41, Benjamin McCafferty <bmacpi...@me.com 
>>>> <mailto:bmacpi...@me.com>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Yeah, it failed at 90 days, which is sort of understandable but the 
>>>> reaction I got was not cool.
>>>> 
>>>> Ah well. We all have a bad day I guess.
>>>> 
>>>> b
>>>> 
>>>>> On Sep 26, 2016, at 12:40, herman dickens <hermandick...@gmail.com 
>>>>> <mailto:hermandick...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Don't blame you with the warranty issue. Part of it may have been the age 
>>>>> of the part.
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Mon, Sep 26, 2016 at 3:37 PM, Benjamin McCafferty <bmacpi...@me.com 
>>>>> <mailto:bmacpi...@me.com>> wrote:
>>>>> Could be. Maybe I’ll try again. I was as pissed about the lack of 
>>>>> warranty as I was about the early failure.
>>>>> best,
>>>>> bmc
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Sep 26, 2016, at 12:13, herman dickens <hermandick...@gmail.com 
>>>>>> <mailto:hermandick...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> You should have better luck this time. I think they had a bad, or old, 
>>>>>> batch and we both got unlucky.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Mon, Sep 26, 2016 at 1:05 PM, Ben McCafferty <bmacpi...@me.com 
>>>>>> <mailto:bmacpi...@me.com>> wrote:
>>>>>> Thanks Herman. Yes, that's a vacuum breaker, and unfortunately not the 
>>>>>> cause of my moisture. I've heard the over pressure relief go off during 
>>>>>> the day also, and never have moisture in the cups otherwise--my machine 
>>>>>> comes on around 4:30 and I don't get to it until 6:30 or 7 so always 
>>>>>> dry. 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Good to know re jaeger, maybe I'll try one more. 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Best,
>>>>>> bmc
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Sep 26, 2016, at 09:57, herman dickens <hermandick...@gmail.com 
>>>>>> <mailto:hermandick...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Ben I get the moisture in the cup thing for a few minutes every time my 
>>>>>>> b II starts up but it goes away in a few minutes. It's coming from the 
>>>>>>> valve in the top of the steam boiler that has the little o-ring in it. 
>>>>>>> The valve opens when the steam pressure is down and then closes when it 
>>>>>>> builds up. Every few years I have to replace that o-ring with one of 
>>>>>>> the red ones and it works fine for another year or so. I have several 
>>>>>>> if you need some. My steam issue is not from the opv. I'm guessing it's 
>>>>>>> a vacuum breaker. I was having trouble with my pump not coming on last 
>>>>>>> year and replaced the controller and it fixed it. Not sure if that's 
>>>>>>> your issue but it may very well be. As to the pstat. I got another 
>>>>>>> jager last year from Chris and it's been working fine. they had a new 
>>>>>>> batch and both of ours that failed had old dates on them. Hope I helped.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Mon, Sep 26, 2016 at 12:49 PM, Benjamin McCafferty <bmacpi...@me.com 
>>>>>>> <mailto:bmacpi...@me.com>> wrote:
>>>>>>> Hey all,
>>>>>>> Hope you’ve had a good weekend! It seems this morning is an active day 
>>>>>>> for the group, so might as well add my current issues with everyone 
>>>>>>> else’s, and ask for the help of the braintrust.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> (B2, rotary/plumbed and PID conversions, about 8 years old I think)
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> First, the easy one, mainly posting this for archives. I’ve noticed 
>>>>>>> moisture in my back right cup on the warming tray a couple of times 
>>>>>>> this past week, indicating the over pressure relief has opened on the 
>>>>>>> steam boiler. Red flag. A couple of days ago, the steam boiler wouldn’t 
>>>>>>> heat after dropping to .5 bar; I reversed the wires on the p-stat, but 
>>>>>>> no love. Switched them back and it began to heat. My likely diagnosis 
>>>>>>> is that it had stuck, and me fiddling with it caused it to un-stick, so 
>>>>>>> the wire reversal didn’t yield anything. Working normally again now, 
>>>>>>> but moisture on the cups again this morning, so it’s probably about to 
>>>>>>> fail since it seems to be sticking in both positions. Sigh. About a 
>>>>>>> year old, once again. So, do I buy another stock unit that fails 
>>>>>>> quickly, or gamble another $60 on a Jaeger that will either last 5 
>>>>>>> years, or 90 days, and not be warrantied by Chris’ Coffee? Hmmm…
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> The second problem is one I asked about a number of weeks back. The 
>>>>>>> first symptom was that the pump would occasionally just start running, 
>>>>>>> and continue for 60 seconds or more. This has mostly subsided, but now 
>>>>>>> the pump will run waaaaaaaay to often, for just a second or two. At its 
>>>>>>> worst, it will run every 30-60 seconds, for a few seconds each time. At 
>>>>>>> minimum, it will run every few minutes.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> The only logical thing I can think of is that somehow the steam boiler 
>>>>>>> is losing volume to a leak, and causing the pump to refill it. But, 
>>>>>>> there are no leaks that I can find; no water under the machine, not 
>>>>>>> even a steady drip from the group into the drip tray. Since I’m plumbed 
>>>>>>> in, I also don’t think I’m pushing water backwards to the water line, 
>>>>>>> but perhaps? My house pressure is about 50-60psi, so quite high. Since 
>>>>>>> the steam boiler is set to about 1.5bar (about 22psi), it seems 
>>>>>>> unlikely that this would be possible.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I guess I did have one other idea, which was that the volume-adjustment 
>>>>>>> rod/sensor (the one that inserts into the steam boiler, with a wire on 
>>>>>>> top, to shut off the pump when water reaches it) might be scaled and so 
>>>>>>> making a poor connection/ground. I doubt this, however, since I had 
>>>>>>> basically no scale last year when everything was torn down, and I 
>>>>>>> rarely de-scale the machine. So a year later I doubt this non-heating 
>>>>>>> and highly polished piece has accumulated much scale, if any.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Otherwise, all is working normally (except the p-stat of course).
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Any ideas? Is there a logic board that could be failing and causing 
>>>>>>> this symptom? Last year, I replaced the giemme controller, the PID, the 
>>>>>>> solenoid, temp probe, both high-limit switches, p-stat, etc. It seems 
>>>>>>> unlikely that something electronic is the cause here, but perhaps. I 
>>>>>>> did not replace the solid state relay, and have been told it rarely 
>>>>>>> fails. But could it be the culprit? I definitely am out of my league on 
>>>>>>> diagnosing this one.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> All best,
>>>>>>> Ben
>>>>>>> 
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