Rudy,
If you take pictures I think the list would like to see them too.
Thanks
Pat Ford
Seabiscuit 3692
Port Washington, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Rudolph S. Behar <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2007 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: catalina27-talk: Woodworking question
I have a '73 also, and I mounted two winches, two double sheave
deck organizers, two 2x2 clutches, two horn cleats, and two of
the new line controlled snap cleats (Spinlock Powercleats) on
the coach roof, without too much trouble. At the same time I
mounted grab handles inside the coach roof.
Did it by getting screws long enough to to pass through the
inner handles and the coach roof well into the outer handles.
Best thing I ever did. The inner grab handles are a godsend in
a seaway, and a darn good place to park spinnaker lines, gloves
and such.
I did not have to move the outer handles in or out, but I did
take one loop off them, (the aft one, of course), to make space
so the lines led fair.
Things to watch: you'll need to be very sure of all the
locations before you drill because the space is, as you can
imagine, tight.
You'll want all lines to lead fair, of course. Mine do, just.
I also mounted a fairlead at the forward port corner to lead the
pole downhaul line aft to one of the snap cleats (the other one
is for the pole lift). I have them side by side on the aft port
corner of the coachroof, where the can be worked by the middle
crew together.
It all works together nicely once it's work out.
I did see one boat with the grab handles moved inboard, right
on top of the hatch slides. I think he, too, mounted inside
grab bars, but maybe not. I remember thinking is that
possible. If it is, and I've seen it and examined it, it might
be a way to go. Will get you the space you need for all that gear.
I'll try to take a picture of my layout, and I'll be glad to
send it to you if you'll supply an offsite address .
Rudy B.
Phoenix #2237
Pasadena, MD
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks for your input Phil, I like the idea of using the
transfer points (of whatever kind), I've seen and done this at
work, but it just didn't occur to me to use it for this job.
Some of the screw holes done during production are less than
centered in the wood, so my idea was to just redo them.
Keith's suggestion of teak plugs is a good one for shallow
holes, but the screws into the handrail go a lot farther than
the length of the plug, which could leave a weak attachment.
Hardwood dowel is available at Home Depot, so maybe drilling
the screw-holes out to accept a close fit dowel would be a
seaman like way to do the job.
On the topic of moving the handrails in or out, if there is
anyone who would like to comment on where their handrails are,
with the lines lead aft, I'd like to see pictures. I looked at
a C-27 in Oceanside, birthed next to us at a transit slip,
which had the handrails mounted on the outside edge of the
coach roof. They were curved to somewhat match the roofline,
and gave clearance for his lines to the cockpit. Looking at
the pictures on Judy B's website, she doesn't have handrails
mounted, and you can see indications of where they were. I am
approaching geezerhood (almost 60, the new middle age?) and
like the comfort of a good handrail when I need to go forward.
Jim, "Tequila Chica"
Dana Point, CA
"Phil Agur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent by: [email protected]
06/12/2007 11:34 AM
Please respond to
[email protected]
To
<[email protected]>
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Subject
RE: catalina27-talk: Woodworking question
Hi Jim,
Beware if you compare pages 5 and 8 of the C27 parts catalog
you'll find it looks like Catalina moved the hand rails in not
out when then did it. Seeing it first hand is better than that
sketch but be aware.
If you were setting up for blind dowelling you would install
metal transfer points in the first set of dowel holes, align
boards, and transfer the marks by tapping the boards together
with a hammer. Transfer points are a little big and the deck a
little hard so here so I would try Listo grease pencil refills
(about a $1 ea) set in the holes with a little candle wax. Be
sure you've allowed for the cabin wall thickness before you
start drilling.
Phil Agur s/v Wing Tip
Secretary/Treasurer Call Sign WCW3485
IC27/270A MMSI 366901790
www.catalina27.org <http://www.catalina27.org/> Vessel Doc#
1039809
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2007 10:33 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: catalina27-talk: Woodworking question
Listmavins,
I want to lead my halyards to the cockpit, but on my '73
model the handrails on the coach roof are right in the way. I
need to move the handrails outboard, and want to reuse the old
handrails, so my problem is drilling new holes that will either
line up with existing screw holes in the rails, or plug the old
holes and redrill (easiest I think). So here is the problem,
what do you plug the holes in teak with, that will keep the
wood strong, and won't force a drill bit off to the side when
it hits it. Is fiberglass with milled fibers the way to go?
Or teak dust and epoxy as a filler? Thanks in advance.
Jim, "Tequila Chica"
Dana Point, CA
