RE: [Chevelle-List] Engine rebuild advice

[396guy]

I just rebuilt the (69) 396 in my 67.  10 years ago I rebuilt it with a .040 overbore, COMP 268 cam, headers, Edelbrock/Holley, Accel ignition and retained the 10.25:1 compression ratio.  I drove it for 50K/60K miles on regular (87 octane), unleaded gas.  I got 12-14 mpg in town and around 16 on the highway.  I drove it mostly around town and 100/150 mile trips to "local" car shows.  I added an Accel/DFI unit and MSD ignition about April/May or so of 2000.  In June I took off for Nashville (800 miles) and didn't have problem one.  Drove it to Nashville again in 2001 by way of KC - almost 1000 miles each way), Wichita, KS (250 miles or so), Kansas City (400+ miles).  In the 14 years of driving it, I had one rocker arm break and one u-joint go bad.   I just rebuilt it again last Dec. and had it bored another .020 (.060 total now) and upgraded the cam to a COMP XE262H.  Probably could have gone another step or two on the cam but I still want to drive it.  This time I did have hardened exhaust seats installed and a 3-angle valve job.  Kept 10.25:1 compression ratio pistons and it still runs on 87 octane without pinging.  With the current 3.07, it's turning right at 3000 at 80mph.   #1 - 1000 miles each way long enough for a show? #2 - Runs all day long on 87 octane if needed. #3 - 10-12 in town and 16-17 now on the highway (again, with 3.07 gears) #4 - First one lasted 10 years and I only rebuilt because I had the money to do it now and not 3, 4, 5 years when it may have really needed it. #5 - You'll have to be the judge on that one.  big block parts are always more expensive than the small block counterpart.  Supply and demand.   It cost me right at $2000 to pull the car in and take it home later.  All labor, parts, machine work, etc. as included.  I'd definitely have hardened exhaust seats to run unleaded fuel.  A 2-bolt main with a standard crank will work fine unless you're a rough driver and see the other side of 6,000 very often.  Mine is a standard, cast, .010/.010 crank/rod setup.  Cam selection is a matter of choice.  My original COMP Cam 268 was about the equivalent of a 350hp cam.  This one is a step or two up.  Not radical, but very drivable.  I've used the same flywheel (factory) for 14 years.  Current clutch is an off-the-shelf 11" diaphragm unit.  As I said, I drive mine and don't race or abuse it.  Your driving habits may vary - adjust equipment accordingly.    Good luck! Dale McIntosh ACES #1709/TC #92 Gold 67 SS/67 Elky http://www.dalesplace.com -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Cecil "Steve" Martin Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 10:44 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Engine rebuild advice Ok guys, soon I will have the 396 in my possesion and will want to rebuild it in time. Don't know much about it other than it's from 69. Here's the criteria to work with. Tell me what you would do other than "forget it!".   #1  I want to build this car to be able to drive long distances to car shows.   #2 Hopefully run on regular gas   #3 Get "reasonable" gas mileage for a big block.   #4 Be reliable and long lasting.   #5 I am a cheap rascal ...don't want to pay a lot for parts just because of name, but still want quality.   Obviously I am not experienced at rebuilding blocks, and some of you are. I'd rather learn by taking advantage of your knowledge from experience.   It's been recomended I bore it to 402 and put in 9:1 pistons. Sounds logical to me. Opinions? What else? What would you do for parts like crank and cam etc? What should be done to the heads ( the engine's ..not mine ).   New flywheel? ( manual tranny )  Where would you buy it if so?                                                                         Steve