I just rebuilt the (69) 396 in my 67. 10 years
ago I rebuilt it with a .040 overbore, COMP 268 cam, headers,
Edelbrock/Holley, Accel ignition and retained the 10.25:1 compression
ratio. I drove it for 50K/60K miles on regular (87 octane), unleaded
gas. I got 12-14 mpg in town and around 16 on the highway. I drove
it mostly around town and 100/150 mile trips to "local" car shows. I
added an Accel/DFI unit and MSD ignition about April/May or so of 2000.
In June I took off for Nashville (800 miles) and didn't have problem
one. Drove it to Nashville again in 2001 by way of KC - almost 1000
miles each way), Wichita, KS (250 miles or so), Kansas City (400+
miles). In the 14 years of driving it, I had one rocker arm break and
one u-joint go bad.
I just rebuilt it again last Dec. and had it bored
another .020 (.060 total now) and upgraded the cam to a COMP XE262H.
Probably could have gone another step or two on the cam but I still want to
drive it. This time I did have hardened exhaust seats installed and a
3-angle valve job. Kept 10.25:1 compression ratio pistons and it
still runs on 87 octane without pinging. With the current 3.07, it's
turning right at 3000 at 80mph.
#1 - 1000 miles each way long enough for a
show?
#2 - Runs all day long on 87 octane if
needed.
#3 - 10-12 in town and 16-17 now on the highway
(again, with 3.07 gears)
#4 - First one lasted 10 years and I only rebuilt
because I had the money to do it now and not 3, 4, 5 years when it may have
really needed it.
#5 - You'll have to be the judge on that one.
big block parts are always more expensive than the small block
counterpart. Supply and demand.
It cost me right at $2000 to pull the car in and take
it home later. All labor, parts, machine work, etc. as included.
I'd definitely have hardened exhaust seats to run unleaded fuel. A
2-bolt main with a standard crank will work fine unless you're a rough driver
and see the other side of 6,000 very often. Mine is a standard, cast,
.010/.010 crank/rod setup. Cam selection is a matter of choice. My
original COMP Cam 268 was about the equivalent of a 350hp cam. This one
is a step or two up. Not radical, but very drivable. I've used the
same flywheel (factory) for 14 years. Current clutch is an
off-the-shelf 11" diaphragm unit. As I said, I drive mine and don't
race or abuse it. Your driving habits may vary - adjust equipment
accordingly.
Good luck!
Dale McIntosh
ACES #1709/TC #92 Gold
67 SS/67 Elky
http://www.dalesplace.com
Ok
guys, soon I will have the 396 in my possesion and will want to rebuild it
in time. Don't know much about it other than it's from 69. Here's the
criteria to work with. Tell me what you would do other than "forget
it!".
#1 I want to build this car to be able to drive long distances
to car shows.
#2 Hopefully run on regular gas
#3
Get "reasonable" gas mileage for a big block.
#4
Be reliable and long lasting.
#5
I am a cheap rascal ...don't want to pay a lot for parts just because of
name, but still want quality.
Obviously I am not experienced at rebuilding blocks, and some of you
are. I'd rather learn by taking advantage of your knowledge from
experience.
It's been recomended I bore it to 402 and put in 9:1 pistons. Sounds
logical to me. Opinions? What else? What would you do for parts like crank
and cam etc? What should be done to the heads ( the engine's ..not mine
).
New flywheel? ( manual tranny ) Where would you buy it if
so?
Steve
