Randy, You're on the right track. Wish I'd known you were doing that, I would have stopped by and taken a peek. I'm back up in the mountains now.
If it was me, I'd remove the wet core as far back as I could with bent nail, etc., dry it with acetone and/or heat gun, tape the area, inject some neat epoxy until it was level with the deck, use bent nail to agitate it then quickly suck out the epoxy. That will coat the exposed surfaces so the thickened epoxy will bond better. Then I'd inject thickened epoxy, let it cure and re-install the chalnplates. Don't forget to chamfer the hole so the bedding plate doesn't sit down on a square edged cut. I'm headed back down to the airport Tuesday afternoon. Got to pick up my ski buddies Wednesday morning. I might be able to swing by the dry storage on the way. Dennis C. On Jan 29, 2017 3:48 PM, "RANDY via CnC-List" <[email protected]> wrote: Listers- We're having a spate of nice weather here in Denver - supposed to be sunny all week and 61 degrees tomorrow (yes, in late January / early February). So today I pulled the chainplates on my 1972 C&C 30 MK I as part of a planned rebedding job (I confirmed leaks down the chainplates last year). Unfortunately after removing all old sealant I found some wet and rotten wood core material between the outer and inner deck skins around the chainplate cutout holes. Now I want to solicit the list's collective wisdom on how to deal with this the right way. The lazy approach would be to just reinstall the chainplates and inject new sealant all around, including into the void between deck skins where rotten core came out, butting up against remaining (and possibly still wet) core. On the other hand I've read everything Don Casey has to say about cored deck repair. I could consider removing core around all sides of the cutout, about a half-inch back from each edge, using a bent nail chucked into a power drill. Then I could fill those voids with thickened epoxy to the edges of the cutout, and then re-bed the chainplates. The extreme end of the spectrum would be to try to map out the area of wet core e.g. perhaps from the outboard edge of the chainplate cutout all the way to the toe rail, then remove and replace the damaged core. However that seems like a huge and complicated job, and I don't think the wet area is that large. I haven't noticed any softness or squishiness around the chainplates at all, but I can percussion-test it carefully. In the meantime I'm letting those areas dry out by leaving the chainplates out and exposing those areas to the dry Colorado air. I may go pour some acetone in those voids too, since Don Casey identifies that as a core-drying technique. I'm leaning towards the void-filling approach. What do you think? Thanks, Randy Stafford S/V Grenadine C&C 30-1 #7 Ken Caryl, CO _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
