I'm doing this on my Tartan this year and I've learned a few things in
trying several different techniques in applying the watco oil and liquid
wax.
In the owner's manual for my boat (which was on board) it stated that
the watco danish finish was applied by wetsanding with 300 grit wet/dry
sand paper. Then wetsanding again with 400 grit. Followed with the
watco wax. It did not mention any kind of abrasive application.
Probably due to the wetsanding. It also stated that this process should
never have to be done again as long as a coat of wax was allied every
year. well that never got done and some of the wood was pretty dried out.
So, I decided I would go back to the wet sanding. At first, by hand
with sanding blocks. I had really good results in the wood that still
held a healthy luster. Not so great with the really dried out pieces.
Some areas seemed to have a wax buildup, very heavy and coarse. I was
not happy with how these pieces were coming out with the hand sanding.
Initially, I thought I was being too particular. They looked much
better but not like new.
I took most of the doors home to work on them in the garage and did some
experimenting. I tried going to just wetsanding the wax product.
although it looked great when finished, 3 weeks later it was starting to
fade on the slightly dry pieces. In fact making the peices look even
worse. I assume this to be the wax having been absorbed into the grain
and not being fully removed by polishing with a rag.
So I decided to go back to wetsanding with the oil. Then, I went to try
and speed up the sanding, I used a vibrating palm sander. This is now my
go to method. The idea behind wetsanding the oil is that, the wood dust
created from sanding, mixes with the oil to create a kind of slurry.
This then gets down into the grain, seals and protects the wood. The
oil dries really hard on a rag or, any other surface, after a few days.
So, it is way more than simply oiling.
The palm sander with the 300 and then 400 grit paper goes much faster
and brings a much smoother finish. The doors I used it on do look new
with the exception of a few scratches. I'm thinking I may end up going
over the troubled areas of the builtin areas that were really bad next
year again.
Some areas had some water staining. That was not completely removed but
almost unnoticeable after the palm sanding. The palm sanding was very
light over most parts and a bit heavier over the built up waxy areas.
The doors and hatch covers, I did last, was probably 3 weeks ago. I
have not waxed them yet but they still look incredible. I used the
natural version of the oil and as the finish cured/dried the wood got
lighter, closer to that nice honey color I was hoping for!
So, I wasted some time but, gained a lot of experience with this product
and will definitely go with the palm sander from here on out. The added
step is well worth the effort and really is not nearly as labor
intensive as the hand sanding. The fact that you're wetsanding keeps
dust to a minimum but, you get some dripped oil. Have plenty of drop
clothes and rags cus, it dries really hard! So, leave time after each
sanding session for cleaning up drips at the end.
Hope this helps someone save some time.
Danny
On 6/5/2017 9:08 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
A white 3M Scotchbright pad is about the same coarseness as bronze
wool. DO NOT use steel wool. My PO used steel staples in upholstery,
and I have several lines of rust colored pockmarks in the teak.
Watco Danish Teak Oil is a very close match for the color of the teak
in both of my mid-70s boats.
Step 1: wash with Murphy’s Oil soap & let dry
Step 2: Lemon Oil
Step 3: Watco oil & buff when it is all soaked into the teak
Rick Brass
*Imzadi *C&C 38 mk 2
*la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
Washington, NC
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of
*Gary Russell via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, June 05, 2017 7:02 PM
*To:* C&C List <[email protected]>
*Cc:* Gary Russell <[email protected]>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wood restoration question
I would never use steel wool on a boat. The steel fiber will stay on
the surface and leave rust stains. I suggest you use bronze wool or a
fine Scotchbright pad instead.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 6:54 PM, robert via CnC-List
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Matt,
If your 'teak ply bulkhead' is in fact 'veneer' I would not sand
it....a better way is to make a mixture of TSP, ammonia and water
and after wetting the veneer with it, dab 000 steelwool, very fine
steelwool and rub over the surface(s).....repeat as
necessary.....rinse with water and let dry and see what you have.
I did the table on my boat that way and then put a danish oil on
it I bought at Lee Valley and it turned out great.
Not that difficult but labor intensive....it was worth it.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2017-06-05 12:27 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:
Listers:
I recently had my chart table refurbished by a carpenter who
does very nice woodwork. Unfortunately, the refurbished chart
table highlights that other areas of woodwork need some TLC,
most notably the teak ply bulkhead wall that the chart table
connects to. Certain areas of teak surface appear lighter in
color than other areas. Any suggestions on refinishing the
teak veneer that a non-expert can safely undertake? Is
sanding too risky due to the thinness of the veneer?
Matt Wolford
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_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go
to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
