Where have you been? No boat yard sightings last few weeks
Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List <[email protected]> Date: 6/6/17 08:35 (GMT-05:00) To: [email protected] Cc: Danny Haughey <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wood restoration question I'm doing this on my Tartan this year and I've learned a few things in trying several different techniques in applying the watco oil and liquid wax. In the owner's manual for my boat (which was on board) it stated that the watco danish finish was applied by wetsanding with 300 grit wet/dry sand paper. Then wetsanding again with 400 grit. Followed with the watco wax. It did not mention any kind of abrasive application. Probably due to the wetsanding. It also stated that this process should never have to be done again as long as a coat of wax was allied every year. well that never got done and some of the wood was pretty dried out. So, I decided I would go back to the wet sanding. At first, by hand with sanding blocks. I had really good results in the wood that still held a healthy luster. Not so great with the really dried out pieces. Some areas seemed to have a wax buildup, very heavy and coarse. I was not happy with how these pieces were coming out with the hand sanding. Initially, I thought I was being too particular. They looked much better but not like new. I took most of the doors home to work on them in the garage and did some experimenting. I tried going to just wetsanding the wax product. although it looked great when finished, 3 weeks later it was starting to fade on the slightly dry pieces. In fact making the peices look even worse. I assume this to be the wax having been absorbed into the grain and not being fully removed by polishing with a rag. So I decided to go back to wetsanding with the oil. Then, I went to try and speed up the sanding, I used a vibrating palm sander. This is now my go to method. The idea behind wetsanding the oil is that, the wood dust created from sanding, mixes with the oil to create a kind of slurry. This then gets down into the grain, seals and protects the wood. The oil dries really hard on a rag or, any other surface, after a few days. So, it is way more than simply oiling. The palm sander with the 300 and then 400 grit paper goes much faster and brings a much smoother finish. The doors I used it on do look new with the exception of a few scratches. I'm thinking I may end up going over the troubled areas of the builtin areas that were really bad next year again. Some areas had some water staining. That was not completely removed but almost unnoticeable after the palm sanding. The palm sanding was very light over most parts and a bit heavier over the built up waxy areas. The doors and hatch covers, I did last, was probably 3 weeks ago. I have not waxed them yet but they still look incredible. I used the natural version of the oil and as the finish cured/dried the wood got lighter, closer to that nice honey color I was hoping for! So, I wasted some time but, gained a lot of experience with this product and will definitely go with the palm sander from here on out. The added step is well worth the effort and really is not nearly as labor intensive as the hand sanding. The fact that you're wetsanding keeps dust to a minimum but, you get some dripped oil. Have plenty of drop clothes and rags cus, it dries really hard! So, leave time after each sanding session for cleaning up drips at the end. Hope this helps someone save some time. Danny On 6/5/2017 9:08 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote: A white 3M Scotchbright pad is about the same coarseness as bronze wool. DO NOT use steel wool. My PO used steel staples in upholstery, and I have several lines of rust colored pockmarks in the teak. Watco Danish Teak Oil is a very close match for the color of the teak in both of my mid-70s boats. Step 1: wash with Murphy’s Oil soap & let dry Step 2: Lemon Oil Step 3: Watco oil & buff when it is all soaked into the teak Rick Brass Imzadi C&C 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Gary Russell via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 05, 2017 7:02 PM To: C&C List <[email protected]><mailto:[email protected]> Cc: Gary Russell <[email protected]><mailto:[email protected]> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wood restoration question I would never use steel wool on a boat. The steel fiber will stay on the surface and leave rust stains. I suggest you use bronze wool or a fine Scotchbright pad instead. Gary S/V Kaylarah '90 C&C 37+ East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~ On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 6:54 PM, robert via CnC-List <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: Matt, If your 'teak ply bulkhead' is in fact 'veneer' I would not sand it....a better way is to make a mixture of TSP, ammonia and water and after wetting the veneer with it, dab 000 steelwool, very fine steelwool and rub over the surface(s).....repeat as necessary.....rinse with water and let dry and see what you have. I did the table on my boat that way and then put a danish oil on it I bought at Lee Valley and it turned out great. Not that difficult but labor intensive....it was worth it. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2017-06-05 12:27 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote: Listers: I recently had my chart table refurbished by a carpenter who does very nice woodwork. Unfortunately, the refurbished chart table highlights that other areas of woodwork need some TLC, most notably the teak ply bulkhead wall that the chart table connects to. Certain areas of teak surface appear lighter in color than other areas. Any suggestions on refinishing the teak veneer that a non-expert can safely undertake? Is sanding too risky due to the thinness of the veneer? Matt Wolford _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
