Where have you been? No boat yard sightings last few weeks
Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List <[email protected]>
<mailto:[email protected]>
Date: 6/6/17 08:35 (GMT-05:00)
To: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
Cc: Danny Haughey <[email protected]> <mailto:[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wood restoration question
I'm doing this on my Tartan this year and I've learned a few
things in trying several different techniques in applying the
watco oil and liquid wax.
In the owner's manual for my boat (which was on board) it stated
that the watco danish finish was applied by wetsanding with 300
grit wet/dry sand paper. Then wetsanding again with 400 grit.
Followed with the watco wax. It did not mention any kind of
abrasive application. Probably due to the wetsanding. It also
stated that this process should never have to be done again as
long as a coat of wax was allied every year. well that never got
done and some of the wood was pretty dried out.
So, I decided I would go back to the wet sanding. At first, by
hand with sanding blocks. I had really good results in the wood
that still held a healthy luster. Not so great with the really
dried out pieces. Some areas seemed to have a wax buildup, very
heavy and coarse. I was not happy with how these pieces were
coming out with the hand sanding. Initially, I thought I was
being too particular. They looked much better but not like new.
I took most of the doors home to work on them in the garage and
did some experimenting. I tried going to just wetsanding the wax
product. although it looked great when finished, 3 weeks later it
was starting to fade on the slightly dry pieces. In fact making
the peices look even worse. I assume this to be the wax having
been absorbed into the grain and not being fully removed by
polishing with a rag.
So I decided to go back to wetsanding with the oil. Then, I went
to try and speed up the sanding, I used a vibrating palm sander.
This is now my go to method. The idea behind wetsanding the oil
is that, the wood dust created from sanding, mixes with the oil
to create a kind of slurry. This then gets down into the grain,
seals and protects the wood. The oil dries really hard on a rag
or, any other surface, after a few days. So, it is way more than
simply oiling.
The palm sander with the 300 and then 400 grit paper goes much
faster and brings a much smoother finish. The doors I used it on
do look new with the exception of a few scratches. I'm thinking
I may end up going over the troubled areas of the builtin areas
that were really bad next year again.
Some areas had some water staining. That was not completely
removed but almost unnoticeable after the palm sanding. The palm
sanding was very light over most parts and a bit heavier over the
built up waxy areas. The doors and hatch covers, I did last, was
probably 3 weeks ago. I have not waxed them yet but they still
look incredible. I used the natural version of the oil and as
the finish cured/dried the wood got lighter, closer to that nice
honey color I was hoping for!
So, I wasted some time but, gained a lot of experience with this
product and will definitely go with the palm sander from here on
out. The added step is well worth the effort and really is not
nearly as labor intensive as the hand sanding. The fact that
you're wetsanding keeps dust to a minimum but, you get some
dripped oil. Have plenty of drop clothes and rags cus, it dries
really hard! So, leave time after each sanding session for
cleaning up drips at the end.
Hope this helps someone save some time.
Danny
On 6/5/2017 9:08 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
A white 3M Scotchbright pad is about the same coarseness as
bronze wool. DO NOT use steel wool. My PO used steel staples in
upholstery, and I have several lines of rust colored pockmarks
in the teak.
Watco Danish Teak Oil is a very close match for the color of the
teak in both of my mid-70s boats.
Step 1: wash with Murphy’s Oil soap & let dry
Step 2: Lemon Oil
Step 3: Watco oil & buff when it is all soaked into the teak
Rick Brass
*Imzadi *C&C 38 mk 2
*la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
Washington, NC
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>] *On Behalf Of *Gary
Russell via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, June 05, 2017 7:02 PM
*To:* C&C List <[email protected]>
<mailto:[email protected]>
*Cc:* Gary Russell <[email protected]>
<mailto:[email protected]>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wood restoration question
I would never use steel wool on a boat. The steel fiber will
stay on the surface and leave rust stains. I suggest you use
bronze wool or a fine Scotchbright pad instead.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
On Mon, Jun 5, 2017 at 6:54 PM, robert via CnC-List
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Matt,
If your 'teak ply bulkhead' is in fact 'veneer' I would not
sand it....a better way is to make a mixture of TSP, ammonia
and water and after wetting the veneer with it, dab 000
steelwool, very fine steelwool and rub over the
surface(s).....repeat as necessary.....rinse with water and
let dry and see what you have.
I did the table on my boat that way and then put a danish
oil on it I bought at Lee Valley and it turned out great.
Not that difficult but labor intensive....it was worth it.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2017-06-05 12:27 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:
Listers:
I recently had my chart table refurbished by a carpenter
who does very nice woodwork. Unfortunately, the
refurbished chart table highlights that other areas of
woodwork need some TLC, most notably the teak ply
bulkhead wall that the chart table connects to. Certain
areas of teak surface appear lighter in color than other
areas. Any suggestions on refinishing the teak veneer
that a non-expert can safely undertake? Is sanding too
risky due to the thinness of the veneer?
Matt Wolford
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_______________________________________________ This list is
supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go
to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> All Contributions are
greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
