These are signal coupling capacitors, the analogue audio passes right
through them. I would personally not use ceramic or tantalum for audio
coupling. Also tantalums have been known to go short circuit when they
fail which could put DC back into the DAC chip and kill it.

The best thing audio-wise is a film capacitor if you can find a 10uF one
that fits, but that might be tricky, and may be overkill.
Perhaps just stick with an electrolytic but fit them the other way
around. If that makes you nervous use a non-polarised electrolytic.

It might be interesting, once all other caps are done, to power it up
without these capacitors and test the voltages on each pad. It would be
good to know for certain what the DC levels really are.


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