Glenn2 wrote: > Damn I typed a long reply and it disappeared. I would use an > electrolytic but just fit the other way around. You can use a non-polar > electrolytic if that makes you nervous. I wouldn't use a ceramic or > tantalum.
I found your reply in the mail that was forwarded from the subscription system: Glenn2 wrote: > These are signal coupling capacitors, the analogue audio passes right > through them. I would personally not use ceramic or tantalum for audio > coupling. Also tantalums have been known to go short circuit when they > fail which could put DC back into the DAC chip and kill it. > > The best thing audio-wise is a film capacitor if you can find a 10uF one > that fits, but that might be tricky, and may be overkill. > Perhaps just stick with an electrolytic but fit them the other way > around. If that makes you nervous use a non-polarised electrolytic. > > It might be interesting, once all other caps are done, to power it up > without these capacitors and test the voltages on each pad. It would be > good to know for certain what the DC levels really are. Thank you so much, this really helps. I think I'm going to go with a bipolar electrolytic, incidentally I happend to find 10V/16µF in my parts store, so why not. Will check if there is any effect on the audio spectrum but I wouldn't expect a huge difference. Voltage measurements without caps in place will also follow. Cheers, Joe PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues! Blog: https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?rinli=1&pli=1&blogID=5053304027701850753#allposts ------------------------------------------------------------------------ JoeMuc2009's Profile: http://forums.slimdevices.com/member.php?userid=23131 View this thread: http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=117140
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