I think you're looking at the wrong side of the switch's use. The most important part of this particular switch is the ability to isolate the magneto from the ground when the engine is running, because we want the engine to run and keep on running. This particular switch is selected because of its _isolating_ abilities approved by aircraft authorities. So do not search for another switch than the one prescribed in the parts-list.

Best regards


Op 16-07-17 om 20:23 schreef Michael Stockhill:
For what it is worth, the mag switches on my Aztec with similar magnetos are rated at 6 amps 125V a.c./dc. The p lead grounds the primary coil. I found one source that says the primary coil puts out about 150 volts. The secondary coil puts out 10-15000 Volts. 40 amp or even 20 amp rated switch looks like overkill for whatever reason. Maybe consevative because we only get one of them.


On Jul 15, 2017 1:29 AM, "Laurie Hoffman via dog" <dog@lists.riverland.net.au <mailto:dog@lists.riverland.net.au>> wrote:

    Hi Tom and Mike,

    Rob and I have the wreck of an H36 from which we have salvaged
    many parts for our functioning H36, especially the L2400 which we
    had top overhauled.

    Tom, I gritted my teeth and dived back into the wreck to recover
    the ignition switch and a panel switch. The wreck is already well
    dismantled however I still had a cow of a job getting access to
    the switches and removing these. I dread to think how much time it
    would take to install a new switch in the original position in a
    complete panel. My strong recommendation is that if you have an
    ignition switch failure seriously consider installing a new switch
    in another location on the panel, simply reroute the wiring from
    the old to the new and then cover up the old switch and placard
    the new.

    Although psychically the switch toggles and bodies appear the
    same, the switches have a very different rating. The panel switch
    is rated 15A while the ignition switch is rated 40A!

    The link that you posted to a new switch I just noticed is only
    rated 20A. Maybe something like this one Tom....
    Longacre 45423 40 Amp Weatherproof Toggle switch #1731 | eBay

    $ 22.95     


        Longacre 45423 40 Amp Weatherproof Toggle switch #1731 | eBay

    Longacre 45423 40 Amp Weatherproof Toggle switch #1731 in | eBay!


    In Oz I have found Narva (driving light manufacturers) switches
    which look suitable. Heavy duty and this one rated at 50A for 12v.

    Heavy Duty - Products - Narva


        Heavy Duty - Products - Narva



    The wreck is a Mk2 by the way while our operational H36 is a Mk1
    so if anyone needs a good Mk2 wing or two, let us know!

    Re hydraulic fluid, we use only OM16 which I gather is equivalent
    to 5606.

    Best Regards

    *From:* Michael Stockhill <sto...@gmail.com <mailto:sto...@gmail.com>>
    *To:* dog@lists.riverland.net.au <mailto:dog@lists.riverland.net.au>
    *Sent:* Saturday, 15 July 2017, 10:13
    *Subject:* Re: [DOG mailing list] H36 Ignition Switch (and brakes)

    Hi Tom et al

    I think I found that the MS  O rings are okay.  Mine were fine
    through two rebuilds (preventative maintenance each time I  put on
    new tires) over 16 years.


    On Jul 14, 2017 10:01 AM, "Tom Preisser" <t...@ecoflight.com
    <mailto:t...@ecoflight.com>> wrote:

        Hi Laurie,

        I have what I believe to be an ignition switch in my spares.
        Can't be positive without digging behind the panel to look
        at my installed switch, but you can check your removed switch
        against it.  The spec is MS 35058-22 http://www.bandc.aero/

        And I think it could be a different spec to the other fuel
        pump, etc switches (beefier), given that it has a separate
        entry than the 15A switches in the old H36 parts manual (with
        part numbers no longer valid for Diamond)...

        BTW on brakes (and thanks Mike for your advice)... just now
        installing a new caliper piston which makes the O ring fit
        much better in the cylinder (seems I had to take off too much
        corroded material from the groove of the original
        installed one, so it no longer sealed tightly)...

        For those of you running DOT3 fluid, I have obtained some EPDM
        O-rings to use rather than the BNR (nitrile) MS-28775-218
        O-rings supplied to me by Diamond (which they may have sent
        probably because the HK36 and DA20 use 5606 aviation brake
        fluid).  See this RAS thread for the details on why BNR is not
        suitable for DOT3...
        https://groups.google.com/ forum/#!topic/rec.aviation.

        And I talked to a lady who has worked at Cleveland Brakes for
        decades, and she gasped!! when I said that Hoffmann used DOT3.
        She says Cleveland only recommends aviation brake fluid ‚Äč- but
        I'm sticking with DOT3 as per the US type certificate!



        On Thu, Jul 13, 2017 at 7:26 PM, Laurie Hoffman via dog
        <mailto:dog@lists.riverland.net.au>> wrote:

            Hi All,

            After extensive investigation into intermittent electrical
            problems eventually developing into a situation where the
            motor had to be shut down in flight due to rough running,
            it appears that the culprit is the ignition switch.

            Physically, the switch appears identical to the other
            original panel toggle switches operating fuel pump,
            avionics, strobe etc.

            Does anyone know if they are the same switch and also is
            there anyone out there in DOG land who might have specs
            for the switches?

            Best Regards


            *From:* Greg Wilson <g...@gregwilson.id.au
            *To:* dog@lists.riverland.net.au
            *Sent:* Sunday, 18 June 2017, 8:10
            *Subject:* [DOG mailing list] Easy fit ADSB

            These are a very easy install and cheap too.

            .com/threads/wow-these-are-goo d-looking-gadjets.161803/

            Greg Wilson

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