Thanks Guy,We will use the 40amp switch for now and look for one matching the
maintenance manual specs.We are doing the switch work today.
Best Regards
Laurie
From: guy audenaerde <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Monday, 17 July 2017, 18:42
Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] H36 Ignition Switch (and brakes)
Hello, I think you're looking at the wrong side of the switch's use. The most
important part of this particular switch is the ability to isolate the magneto
from the ground when the engine is running, because we want the engine to run
and keep on running. This particular switch is selected because of its
isolating abilities approved by aircraft authorities. So do not search for
another switch than the one prescribed in the parts-list. Best regards Guy
Op 16-07-17 om 20:23 schreef Michael Stockhill:
For what it is worth, the mag switches on my Aztec with similar magnetos are
rated at 6 amps 125V a.c./dc. The p lead grounds the primary coil. I found one
source that says the primary coil puts out about 150 volts. The secondary coil
puts out 10-15000 Volts. 40 amp or even 20 amp rated switch looks like overkill
for whatever reason. Maybe consevative because we only get one of them.
Michael
On Jul 15, 2017 1:29 AM, "Laurie Hoffman via dog" <[email protected]>
wrote:
Hi Tom and Mike,
Rob and I have the wreck of an H36 from which we have salvaged many parts for
our functioning H36, especially the L2400 which we had top overhauled.
Tom, I gritted my teeth and dived back into the wreck to recover the ignition
switch and a panel switch. The wreck is already well dismantled however I still
had a cow of a job getting access to the switches and removing these. I dread
to think how much time it would take to install a new switch in the original
position in a complete panel. My strong recommendation is that if you have an
ignition switch failure seriously consider installing a new switch in another
location on the panel, simply reroute the wiring from the old to the new and
then cover up the old switch and placard the new.
Although psychically the switch toggles and bodies appear the same, the
switches have a very different rating. The panel switch is rated 15A while the
ignition switch is rated 40A!
The link that you posted to a new switch I just noticed is only rated 20A.
Maybe something like this one Tom.... Longacre 45423 40 Amp Weatherproof
Toggle switch #1731 | eBay
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Longacre 45423 40 Amp Weatherproof Toggle switch #1731 | eBay
Longacre 45423 40 Amp Weatherproof Toggle switch #1731 in | eBay! |
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In Oz I have found Narva (driving light manufacturers) switches which look
suitable. Heavy duty and this one rated at 50A for 12v.
Heavy Duty - Products - Narva
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Heavy Duty - Products - Narva
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The wreck is a Mk2 by the way while our operational H36 is a Mk1 so if anyone
needs a good Mk2 wing or two, let us know!
Re hydraulic fluid, we use only OM16 which I gather is equivalent to 5606.
Best Regards
Laurie
From: Michael Stockhill <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, 15 July 2017, 10:13
Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] H36 Ignition Switch (and brakes)
Hi Tom et al
I think I found that the MS O rings are okay. Mine were fine through two
rebuilds (preventative maintenance each time I put on new tires) over 16
years.
Mike
On Jul 14, 2017 10:01 AM, "Tom Preisser" <[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Laurie,
I have what I believe to be an ignition switch in my spares. Can't be
positive without digging behind the panel to look at my installed switch, but
you can check your removed switch against it. The spec is MS 35058-22
http://www.bandc.aero/ toggleswitch-MS35058-22.aspx
And I think it could be a different spec to the other fuel pump, etc switches
(beefier), given that it has a separate entry than the 15A switches in the old
H36 parts manual (with part numbers no longer valid for Diamond)...
BTW on brakes (and thanks Mike for your advice)... just now installing a new
caliper piston which makes the O ring fit much better in the cylinder (seems I
had to take off too much corroded material from the groove of the original
installed one, so it no longer sealed tightly)...
For those of you running DOT3 fluid, I have obtained some EPDM O-rings to use
rather than the BNR (nitrile) MS-28775-218 O-rings supplied to me by Diamond
(which they may have sent probably because the HK36 and DA20 use 5606 aviation
brake fluid). See this RAS thread for the details on why BNR is not suitable
for DOT3... https://groups.google.com/ forum/#!topic/rec.aviation.
soaring/4MiwHrkryFg
And I talked to a lady who has worked at Cleveland Brakes for decades, and
she gasped!! when I said that Hoffmann used DOT3. She says Cleveland only
recommends aviation brake fluid - but I'm sticking with DOT3 as per the US
type certificate!
Cheers,
Tom
On Thu, Jul 13, 2017 at 7:26 PM, Laurie Hoffman via dog
<[email protected]> wrote:
Hi All,
After extensive investigation into intermittent electrical problems
eventually developing into a situation where the motor had to be shut down in
flight due to rough running, it appears that the culprit is the ignition
switch.
Physically, the switch appears identical to the other original panel toggle
switches operating fuel pump, avionics, strobe etc.
Does anyone know if they are the same switch and also is there anyone out
there in DOG land who might have specs for the switches?
Best Regards
Laurie
From: Greg Wilson <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sunday, 18 June 2017, 8:10
Subject: [DOG mailing list] Easy fit ADSB
These are a very easy install and cheap too.
https://www.recreationalflying
.com/threads/wow-these-are-good-looking-gadjets.161803/
Greg Wilson
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