OK I got the 'spare' PTO out to test and it has a loose 'tuning shaft'
The tuning shaft is loose from the 'fork' piece.  It appears as though
someone had tried to solder it on to the fork piece.  Was it orginally
a 'press' fit?  Has anyone ever repaired this problem before.

I posted of pix of the Assy on my blog at pgerhardt.blogspot.com . It
is marked as a T4XB unit.

After fixing the shaft to the fork I would like to test it for
operation on the bench.  I see a ground wire (green black) and another
wire a red white).  There are also two solder lugs one near the white
red wire and another at one of the spring clips.  How much voltage
should I put on the PTO to check the oscillator?

There is also some small amount of grease on the gears but it feels
'OK' turning.  I will probably just brush off the gears with an old
toothbrush and getting them as dry as possible.  Is any thing else
recommended?





On Thu, Nov 3, 2011 at 8:34 AM,  <[email protected]> wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. R-4B Mod removal, Part 1 (Steve Wedge)
>   2. Re: R-4B Mod removal, Part 1 (Pete Juliano)
>   3. Re: R-4B Mod removal, Part 1 (Steve Wedge)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 20:37:37 -0400
> From: "Steve Wedge" <[email protected]>
> To: "Drake List" <[email protected]>
> Subject: [Drakelist] R-4B Mod removal, Part 1
> Message-ID: <9DD85426922D4916BD0A771394E465AA@Shack7>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I'm not as brave as Pete (N6QW) - if I assume that he restored his R-4B all 
> at once.  Chances are, he didn't, but he did give me a darn good road-map.  
> My first goals for this evening were to check to see if Radio Shack really 
> did sell long-shafted 10k pots anymore - they do (!) and so I parted with 
> about 3 bucks and change and brought it home.
>
> The pot will be to replace the RF GAIN control - which the PO had ditched in 
> favour of rigging up some sort of alternative RF Gain/AGC circuit.  This is 
> the source of that extra knob on the front.  This rework will, however, 
> continue tomorrow night.
>
> Tonight, my actual goals in working on the receiver were to undo the audio 
> mods, thereby unleashing the 6EH5 again.  For some reason, the PO shorted the 
> grid to the cathode and ran a piece of RG-174 from this to the INJ jack.  He 
> moved the INJ over to the SPARE location and installed another RCA jack 
> there.  Why?  Darned if I know.  It seems he didn't need the high-level 
> audio, probably because he was using an external audio amp.  I have no idea 
> why he'd want to move (and cut!) the INJ shielded line.  Anyway, as luck 
> would have it, after removing that piece of RG-174, I determined that it was 
> the perfect length to go from the correct jack back over to T4.  So, I 
> removed the old shielded cable from T4 to the SPARE jack and installed the 
> free end of the piece of RG-174 over to its correct location on T4.  It's 
> very tight in there around the bandswitch!  I removed what I thought was an 
> extra capacitor on the board nearest the AF GAIN control.
>
> When I turned the rig on, I was greeted with nothing!  At least there was no 
> smoke...
>
> I found a couple of problems.  That "extra" cap was moved over to the foil 
> side of the board to make room for a big electrolytic that's paralleled 
> across one of the terminals on the can cap (a bad idea that will be addressed 
> later - maybe)  I had removed a .47 that was substituted for the original .01 
> that couples the audio output to the speaker!  No wonder there was no audio!  
> Put a new .01 on the foil side and voila!  Now I can keep the AF GAIN barely 
> cracked open and get plenty of audio - just like it was designed to do!
>
> A more troubling matter reared its head - the INJ didn't seem to be working 
> properly.  Strangely enough, if I switched to the transmitter, I was getting 
> signals as tuned by BOTH PTO's.  Obviously, the negative bias wasn't working 
> for some reason.  After metering and sniffing around, I found a wire attached 
> to the resistor board directly beneath the PTO that wasn't soldered!  I'm 
> amazed this receiver had worked for as long as it did - this was the wire 
> from T4 to the resistor board.  I re-soldered this wire and everything's 
> working as it should (except the RF Gain, of course).
>
> I'm done for this evening.  I sliced open the tip of my left index finger 
> whilst trimming the RG-174 with my nice-n-sharp Swiss Army Knife.  It's now 
> starting to hurt.
>
> Tomorrow, I begin the process of unraveling the RF GAIN and AGC mods.  This 
> one's going to be a lot more work.  Once those changes are done, I'll put two 
> - count 'em - headphone jacks in: one mono jack where it's supposed to be (on 
> the side) and one to plug the hole in the front panel, which I'll rig as a 
> L-R-shorted stereo jack so that one can use stereo phones without an adaptor. 
>  I figure that if the damn hole is going to be there anyway, it might as well 
> do something useful!
>
> Pete, again, thanks for being the pioneer.  With a stone-stock, working R-4B 
> that I can use - plus Garey's CD - I'm having an easier time than you 
> probably did.  Getting to that 150-ohm resistor is going to be a challenge.
>
> Enjoy Those Drakes...
>
> Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
>
> To be is to do - Socrates
> To do is to be - Plato
> Do be do be do. - Sinatra
>
> All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
> thereto.
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20111102/d43d6e24/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 18:43:13 -0700
> From: "Pete Juliano" <[email protected]>
> To: "Steve Wedge" <[email protected]>,     "Drake List"
>        <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4B Mod removal, Part 1
> Message-ID: <F25D9DB6AB144377BFCB63820DFA94CC@UNIT0>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> Actually I did it all in two days so it was a little longer than one 
> afternoon. But that also included testing all of the tubes, cleaning the 
> chassis top and putting de-oxit on the switch terminals with the 
> micro-applicator and giving all the tube pins a shot of de-oxit and back into 
> their sockets. Finding the missing 2.2M Ohm resistor took the longest. If I 
> had Garey's CD that would have been much faster. I now have it so any more 
> work will go faster. BTW the 2.2M resistor was missing on the other radio I 
> know of besides yours. You didn't mention if you addressed that --but the AGC 
> won't work without that resistor.
>
> Look carefully and the 6BZ6 and you might find that 150 Ohm resistor has just 
> been moved slightly out of the way and not removed totally. That was the case 
> in two radios from that lot. If it is there then a clean up of the Cathode 
> pin with solder wick it will let you slide that puppy right in place and you 
> are there. If you want to plug the hole in the front panel then you can use a 
> 5/16 black plastic plug and it will fit nicely and the hole sort of 
> disappears into the front panel. I found one such plug at my local hardware 
> store.
>
> 73's
> Pete N6QW
>
>
>
>
> From: Steve Wedge
> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 5:37 PM
> To: Drake List
> Subject: [Drakelist] R-4B Mod removal, Part 1
>
>
> I'm not as brave as Pete (N6QW) - if I assume that he restored his R-4B all 
> at once.  Chances are, he didn't, but he did give me a darn good road-map.  
> My first goals for this evening were to check to see if Radio Shack really 
> did sell long-shafted 10k pots anymore - they do (!) and so I parted with 
> about 3 bucks and change and brought it home.
>
> The pot will be to replace the RF GAIN control - which the PO had ditched in 
> favour of rigging up some sort of alternative RF Gain/AGC circuit.  This is 
> the source of that extra knob on the front.  This rework will, however, 
> continue tomorrow night.
>
> Tonight, my actual goals in working on the receiver were to undo the audio 
> mods, thereby unleashing the 6EH5 again.  For some reason, the PO shorted the 
> grid to the cathode and ran a piece of RG-174 from this to the INJ jack.  He 
> moved the INJ over to the SPARE location and installed another RCA jack 
> there.  Why?  Darned if I know.  It seems he didn't need the high-level 
> audio, probably because he was using an external audio amp.  I have no idea 
> why he'd want to move (and cut!) the INJ shielded line.  Anyway, as luck 
> would have it, after removing that piece of RG-174, I determined that it was 
> the perfect length to go from the correct jack back over to T4.  So, I 
> removed the old shielded cable from T4 to the SPARE jack and installed the 
> free end of the piece of RG-174 over to its correct location on T4.  It's 
> very tight in there around the bandswitch!  I removed what I thought was an 
> extra capacitor on the board nearest the AF GAIN control.
>
> When I turned the rig on, I was greeted with nothing!  At least there was no 
> smoke...
>
> I found a couple of problems.  That "extra" cap was moved over to the foil 
> side of the board to make room for a big electrolytic that's paralleled 
> across one of the terminals on the can cap (a bad idea that will be addressed 
> later - maybe)  I had removed a .47 that was substituted for the original .01 
> that couples the audio output to the speaker!  No wonder there was no audio!  
> Put a new .01 on the foil side and voila!  Now I can keep the AF GAIN barely 
> cracked open and get plenty of audio - just like it was designed to do!
>
> A more troubling matter reared its head - the INJ didn't seem to be working 
> properly.  Strangely enough, if I switched to the transmitter, I was getting 
> signals as tuned by BOTH PTO's.  Obviously, the negative bias wasn't working 
> for some reason.  After metering and sniffing around, I found a wire attached 
> to the resistor board directly beneath the PTO that wasn't soldered!  I'm 
> amazed this receiver had worked for as long as it did - this was the wire 
> from T4 to the resistor board.  I re-soldered this wire and everything's 
> working as it should (except the RF Gain, of course).
>
> I'm done for this evening.  I sliced open the tip of my left index finger 
> whilst trimming the RG-174 with my nice-n-sharp Swiss Army Knife.  It's now 
> starting to hurt.
>
> Tomorrow, I begin the process of unraveling the RF GAIN and AGC mods.  This 
> one's going to be a lot more work.  Once those changes are done, I'll put two 
> - count 'em - headphone jacks in: one mono jack where it's supposed to be (on 
> the side) and one to plug the hole in the front panel, which I'll rig as a 
> L-R-shorted stereo jack so that one can use stereo phones without an adaptor. 
>  I figure that if the damn hole is going to be there anyway, it might as well 
> do something useful!
>
> Pete, again, thanks for being the pioneer.  With a stone-stock, working R-4B 
> that I can use - plus Garey's CD - I'm having an easier time than you 
> probably did.  Getting to that 150-ohm resistor is going to be a challenge.
>
> Enjoy Those Drakes...
>
> Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
>
> To be is to do - Socrates
> To do is to be - Plato
> Do be do be do. - Sinatra
>
> All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
> thereto.
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Drakelist mailing list
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 08:33:55 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
> From: Steve Wedge <[email protected]>
> To: Pete Juliano <[email protected]>,  Drake List
>        <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4B Mod removal, Part 1
> Message-ID:
>        <29727547.1320323635757.javamail.r...@wamui-hunyo.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
>
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>
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>
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> End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 41, Issue 7
> ****************************************
>



-- 
Paul Gerhardt
K3PG
http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com
QRP ARCI 6674
FP 274
"You must do this work with love or you fail." -- John Muir, from How
to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive

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