I think he was asking about the fork to slug rod connection. It is
definitely soldered on the ones I have here. Glue or JB weld epoxy is
not a good choice since the slug rod is grounded through the fork to the
guide rod. A loose slug rod connection will definitely be a jumping
issue.
Re-soldering seems the only proper solution.
The theads are just for the screw to fork.. The slug Rod to fork, in
the middle, is soldered. Should be no threads there. But it will
require the slug rod be removed from the assembly which means a complete
field strip of the entire assembly. I would not try to solder it while
in situ.
Curt
Garey Barrell wrote:
The fork _IS_ threaded!
Perhaps I misunderstood your problem. The fork is NOT fixed to the
tuning shaft. The shaft rotates and the fork is driven back and forth
by the threads??????
IF the fork is solidly affixed to the shaft, the shaft can't turn!!
--
73, Garey - K4OAH
St Charles, IL
Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
<www.k4oah.com>
Paul Gerhardt wrote:
http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TechTips/PTO-Repair.htm
The above link answered most of my questions.
The end of the rod is threaded with solder on it and the fork is not
threaded so my last remaining question is; how was the tuning rod
affixed to the 'fork'. Would it be better to;
1. Use glue like JB Weld or Super Glue
2. put more solder on the threads of the rod and press fit
it back on with a hammer
3. put more solder on the threads AND the fork soldering
them together.
Opt 1 would be the easest and safest method it seems...??
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