To Andy's point, it will work, it's just a matter of lots and lots of passes.  
For instance, see 
http://neme-s.org/Shaper%20Books/Michael_Moore/shaper%20gear%20cut.pdf for how 
it can be done on a metal shaper with a rack form tool.  There is no need for 
an undercut.  The same basic method could be used for a ball-nose endmill but 
you'd need to make even more passes because you wouldn't have the correct taper 
to the sides of the tool or the correct nose radius.  There's really no need to 
reverse if you just complete a full rotation to bring you to wherever you need 
to start for the next tooth, so that eliminates the backlash problem in your 
4th axis.  However, I suspect you'd also have a problem with wear on the 
endmill because of the relatively high RPM and numerous tiny (and slow) passes 
at a low chip-load required to generate acceptable surface finish.  You should 
be able to do helixes without a problem by adding in the spiral motion, but 
this would take some thinking.

You could also use a form ground grinding wheel as a slitting saw, as in Dave's 
method, to finish the gear.  It's essentially a single tooth hob with an 
infinite number of teeth.  You could do this post-heat treat if you wanted 
automotive quality gearing.  One form wheel could handle any gear tooth count 
in the same module/pitch diameter and you can do helixes if you can set your 
head over at an angle.  You can even dress the gear with the CNC machine to 
ensure that it is of known diameter and accurate form.  Obviously I've given 
this a great deal of thought ... maybe a project I'll attempt someday.

Matt
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