> My old REBEL had a sync lockout at 1/90, so flash was always difficult
> to balance in sunny-16 daylight. FP flash is really nice.
I disagree that it's necessary, at least for me. I shot a roll of
Superia 800 on a hazy, but bright day lately with my 380EX flash (TTL only
on the 10). I set for P mode and just shot. The subjects were people, mostly
from 5 -15 feet away.The results were excellent. No flash shadows, nice
balanced no flash look to all. My synch is 1/125th, not much different than
1/90th really. I am assuming the camera had to use a very small aperture,
but I never really checked it. (hazy bright, likely about 2 stops over the
sunny 16 rule would have put aperture around F16) The lens I used, the 20-35
goes down to F22 (F27 at 35mm), so I could have shot with 1600 speed film.
Using a lens with only F16, 3200 speed film, or for some reason needing to
stay at F8 might be reasons to need FP flash, but generally it can be
avoided. In this case I didn't mind a large DOF, and in fact on this lens
it'd be hard to avoid. As to sharpness or the loss of it using small
apertures, the photos look very sharp to me!
I know if I was using a longer lens, I might have wanted to hold my
aperture at F8, but you know if you're shooting subjects with say a
135-200mm lens at 10 - 20 feet, you'd likely get out of focus background
even at F22. (depending of course how far back the background is)
Now, if I was going shooting some nice portraits (or a wedding or such),
I'm sure not going to have the 800 speed film in the camera, so using Portra
160 with 1/125th synch I'd be well into the mid to large apertures without
worrying about having FP flash. I likely wouldn't be out in noontime sun on
the beach either. Therefore, I conclude, I don't need it :-)
The main thing is to be aware of limitations, and if all else fails,
there are neutral density filters that have been used for years with good
results. (not that I've ever owned one :-) Hell, I could just overexpose
negative film a stop or two for that matter... (that's right folks, manual
mode is available on an EOS)
Of course it is nice to have all these fine features and gizmos to save
our arses in some situations. However, I believe there's a point where the
features begin to fog us and overwhelm our knowledge and experience in a
cloud of uncertainty. Certain features I feel are necessary, some are nice,
some I prefer to be without. I guess that's why, for me, the new EOS 7/30 is
too much. So many switches and controls I'd get confused. I want to
simplify, find the controls I need quickly and instinctively. I admit I'm a
hardware and gizmo freak too, but when it comes to photography, I have to
draw the line at a place where I like it. Presently, that is at my EOS 10
and TTL flash.
I feel there's many photographers out there in a far worse dilemma. I
have behind me over 30 years of shooting experience, and generally a great
knowledge of cameras and equipment. I can and do learn new things. Getting
my EOS presented many new things to learn. I took my time, figured
everything out, tested, got to know it well. I can only imagine a beginner
with a new EOS 7, E-TTL, Fp flash, ECF, god knows how many focus points, a
zoom lens, wide choice of films, partial metering, etc etc. Can he/she get
over all the gizmos and get some nice photos? Can he/she begin to
understand, control the equipment, and instinctively take great photos? Or
will he/she spend frustrating years trying to understand what switch does
what, and why their photos look like this, and not like that? This list is a
great place to begin understanding this stuff, but I think many should try
and simplify things just a bit.
EOS cameras try and make it easy to take great shots by allowing us to
shoot in 'green mode' or P mode when we're not sure. I think they do a fine
job of that. But it's getting beyond the basics and the green mode that
separates amateurs from good photographers. I've got a little Fuji P&S here
that does a great job, just like green mode - but it's a lot easier to carry
and use.
> Now, if you're talking "missing features", here is what is absent
> from the Canon's EOS flash system:
>
> 1) Viewfinder indicator of post-flash correct exposure
> 2) Showing correct flash exposure in the viewfinder
> 3) Blinking light or beep when flash exposure was insufficient
>
> and also
>
> 4) Preventing shutter-release when the flash is in the hotshoe, but
> partially charging
> 5) Popup flash should be E-TTL (like on the D30)
> 6) Popup flash should also function as wireless E-TTL master
> 7) Slave function should work like Ikelite Litelink or Nikon SU-4
>
> and did I forget to mention
> 8) Showing Flash OK light in the viewfinder after a flash exposure
>
> Cheers
> Julian Loke
> P.S. There should also be some way of showing that a flash exposure
> had sufficient power in the viewfinder :-) Everytime I shoot with
> flash, I feel I need it.
Ah, but isn't E-TTL's purpose so that you don't need indicators or even
to think about it? As to the popup flash, I think it's great that it does
function using TTL!
Jim
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