When you say 'effective f/22'; do you mean you set f11 on the camera (works out to ~f22 effective at 1:1)?
Yes.
That should explain why I'm not getting any good exposure using f16 with the weaker (than the ml-14) ml-3.
I have played around with the same setup, without film (~3x enlargement) and noticed that the green confirmation light does light up for anything lower than f8. I think photos will still be severely underexposed, though since the slides I got back were at least 3 stops under. I plan to do some more tests on the weekend using film.
The problem is that at f8 and 3x enlargement the DOF is basically nothing! :-( Time to start saving for that MT-24 twin flash! (Hope to be able to get the MPE-65 at some stage as well)
The MT-24 should work significantly better.
Do you perhaps know how to calculate working flash distances in a macro setup, or point me to a site where I can read more?
There really is no easy formula for this, as any formula makes assumptions about the flash area, and that is of course individual to the flash. With a ring flash at close distances, you don't get any greater illumination at 5cm distance from the flash than at 8 cm, for example. The best thing is to do a series at various distances and bracket, and record everything. You might have to 'waste' a couple of films, and an hour or two on this, but it will save you lots of time and film later.
Regards Thys
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