Okay, so the next thing is whether the voltage from the pack is getting through
the motor. We have motor windings that can burn out, and we have a controller
that can have a massive silicon failure.
Need to see what the potbox is doing too. Eventually, they lose their carbon
and give erratic readings (but you usually at least get _some_ vehicle
movement. You'd use your ohmmeter section for that. I'm guessing you have a
true RMS voltmeter?
Thinking about converting a gen. 5 ('92-95) Honda Civic? See
http://home.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html for DVD and tons more info!
____
__/__|__\__
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
OR Lic. "LCTRNS"
________________________________
From: 85VWCabrioletEV <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2013 4:13 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 85 VW Cabriolet Newbie, please help! m(_ _)m
Bob Bath wrote
> Going to need more info than that.
> - Pack voltage currently, vs. regular pack voltage
> the batteries have only been charged once with a Lester Electronics
> off-board charger. I was told a fully charged US-125 is about 6.3v
> 6.3x20=126v...but I just called American Battery in Hayward and they say
> 6.6-6.8v per cell. 6.7x20=134v
> this morning I was at 126.4v
>
> - Voltage of aux. battery/DCDC converter.
>
> When key is on, DC/DC converter is jumping 12v battery output to 14.1v
>
> - Is main contactor being pulled in when you power up the vehicle?
>
> Yes
>
> This will get us started.
> (;-p
>
>
> Thinking about converting a gen. 5 ('92-95) Honda Civic? See
> http://home.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html for DVD and tons more
> info!
> ____
> __/__|__\__
> =D-------/ - - \
> 'O'-----'O'-'
> Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
> wheel?
> OR Lic. "LCTRNS"
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: 85VWCabrioletEV <
> sfnotecorp@
> >
> To:
> [email protected]
>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2013 1:31 PM
> Subject: [EVDL] 85 VW Cabriolet Newbie, please help! m(_ _)m
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I spent a full 7 days in Santa Cruz last week working side by side with
> Mike
> and Shari at Electro Automotive to finish repairs on my 85 VW Cabriolet
> conversion. The good news is the vehicle was operating nicely when I left
> Santa Cruz on Saturday with the VW on a flatbed uhaul trailer. The bad
> news
> is that once I arrived in Los Angeles, I backed the VW off of the flatbed
> trailer, made two small circles in the parking lot, and proceeded to park
> the car. I then left the VW in the parking lot while I returned the uhaul
> trailer. When I returned to the parking lot to make the final 2 mile
> drive
> home in EV glory, the VW would not move an inch.
>
> m(_ _)m
>
> This is my first EV, and therefore I am hoping you experienced EVers can
> help me troubleshoot and isolate the problem..... Atleast the EV is home
> now thanks to AAA.
>
> Vehicle:
> 1985 VW Cabriolet
> 120 volt lead acid.... US battery US-125 ..... 20 6volt batteries
> Advanced DC 9" motor
> Auburn Scientific MPWC600 - water cooled controller
> Elcon DC/DC converter
> power brake booster
>
> Problem:
> As mentioned above, after backing vehicle off of flatbed trailer and
> parking
> for about 45 minutes, I returned to make final 2 mile drive home, but the
> EV
> would no longer move. I could here contactors close, and able to read a
> full
> voltage of 126v at the B- and B+ connections of the controller. I
> connected
> 12v Aux battery to A1 and S1 on motor to verify motor would still turn
> which
> it did. After some reading, I suspected the controller may have triggered
> itself into sleep mode due to pot box or abnormal voltage sensed by
> controller. I took ohm readings on 5k pot box which read 0 at one
> extreme,
> and 5.8k at the other extreme. I did not have time to work on car
> yesterday, so car sat for 24hrs with high voltage emergency disconnect
> switch behind driver activated and therefore cutting the traction pack
> from
> controller and motor. This morning I measured pre charge voltage at
> controller on B- and B+ on controller which showed 0 volts, so I closed
> the
> emergency disconnect, and turned key switch to on, and motor would turn
> while car was in neutral. I decided to drive the car and drove uphill
> (steep) 30 feet in my driveway. Since car was able to pull the hill, I
> coasted to bottom of hill and turned onto public street. As I accelerated
> more, the motor would cutout until I released accelerator pedal and then
> accelerate again, each time cutting out the motor after only slight
> acceleration. After maybe 5 or 6 attempts to gain speed, the controller
> and
> motor became completely un responsive again. Tried to zero out the
> precharge voltage and start over, but was unable to wake up controller. I
> am not certain if there is a reset procedure for the controller that I
> should be following...... after problem occurs and I activate manual
> disconnect switch, I still read 1.5 to 2 volts at B- /B+. The only
> difference I have found between Santa Cruz readings and Los Angeles
> readings
> is that when the traction pack is connected but the key switch is off I am
> now reading approximately 74.5volts, and in Santa Cruz when everything
> functioned normally, it would read approximately 81.5 volts. When key
> switch is turned on, it reads the full traction pack voltage of 126.4
> volts
> both in LA and Santa Cruz. I notice as I type this that the difference in
> pre charge voltage is approximately 6 volts which may indicate a loose
> connection on 1 6v battery?????
>
> Please help.... and thanks in advance! Feel free to call :)
>
> Cheers,
> Scott
> 562 665 4541
> feel free to call
> sfnotecorp@
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
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