Wow Roger, thanks for the great post, even though some of it went over my
head! ;) 

<One last thing to check: where is the enable signal coming from?  The
Auburn manual states that the enable signal can be <anything from 12V to
pack voltage, which might result in someone thinking that they can use the
vehicle 12V system to <provide the enable signal.  E.g. use the switched
+12V ignition line from the keyswitch and run it through the potbox <enable
switch to the controller enable input.  This will not work (or not
reliably), because the vehicle 12V system ground <should not be connected to
the traction pack.  The result may be that the controller enables
unreliably.

I did indeed have it wired from a ignition switch enabled fuse block with a
20a fuse to the red enable wire of the Auburn Scientific controller.  This
set up never failed once while i was in Santa Cruz....

<The wiring diagram in the Auburn manual shows the enable signal being taken
from the controller side of the precharge <resistor, as I suggest, but also
shows a diode between this point and the controller side of the main
contactor.  Does your <installation have this diode fitted?  I don't know
that the diode is essential, but it will prevent the enable signal from
<being held on for some time by the charge stored in the controller bus caps
after you try to disable the controller.

I do have a diode on the bottom/controller side of contactor, so I removed
all power from red enable wire to controller and precharge circuit and
waited about ten minutes for precharge circuit to read 0 volts.  i then
jumpered red enable circuit wire to controller side of contactor, and voila! 
Motor and controller are now functioning properly.  I took car for about a 3
mile trip with no problems....  *(^_^)*  

I will test more in the morning

Thanks,

Scott




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